T  Trip  Around 
the  World. 


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My   Trip    Around    the 
World 


BY 


E  L  1  ■-  O  N  O  R  A      HUN  T 


AUGUST,    1S95— MAY,    1S96 


I'RIVA  I  l-I.V    PRINTED    FOR    TH1-;    A  U  1  H  O  R 

CHICAGO 

1902 


1 


DEDICATED     TO     MY 
GRANDSONS 

John 

and  Hunt 

Wentworth 

Inirodttction. 

I  must  acknowledge  that  I  hesitate  to  place 
this  manuscript  in  print.  It  has  been  a  struggle 
for  me  in  my  declining  days,  luith  impaired 
health  and  imperfect  vision ;  hut  my  desire  is 
that  my  grandsons,  John  and  Hunt  IVent^vorth, 
to  whom  I  dedicate  this  hook,  may  glean  from  its 
leaves  some  knowledge  and,  perhaps,  it  may  create 
a  desire  to  take  the  satne  trip  some  day,  having  first 
gained  for  themselves  a  storehouse  of  knowledge 
with  which  they  may  be  enabled  to  see  the  Orient 
and  other  foreign  lands  with  a  greater  degree  of 
appreciation.  By  that  time,  the  '^  Problems  of 
the  Far  East^^  may  have  been  solved,  and  light 
divine  will  shine  in  the  dark  places. 

If  a  few  copies  find  their  ivay  into  the  hands 
of  friends,  those  'who  knoio  me  well  will  have 
charity,  as  they  know  the  difficulties  I  have  had 
to  surmount  in  accomplishing  the  work. 

E.  H. 
fuly  31,   tgo2. 


Wm.  Johnston  Printing  Company 
Chicago 


My  Trip  Around  the  JVorld 


Chicago,  August  19,  1895. 

Have  you  ever  had  a  desire  so  great  that  it 
became  a  controlling-  influence,  and  when  that 
desire  or  wish  was  gratified  and  that  day- 
dream became  a  reality  to  feel  an  overwhelm- 
ing sadness — a  heart  failure?  If  so,  you  can 
realize  how  on  August  19,  1895,  at  6:30  p.  m.,  I 
left  Chicago  with  a  heavy  heart  for  a  voyage 
around  the  world  in  company  with  my  broth- 
er, his  wife  and  son,  the  latter  just  relieved 
from  college  life. 

We  arrived  in  St.  Paul  in  time  for  breakfast, 
the  train  already  made  up  that  was  to  convey 
us  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  to  Van- 
couver, B.  C. 

Our  attention  was  at  once  directed  to  the 
immense  wheat  fields  of  Minnesota  and  vil- 
lages few  and  far  between.  Through  the  end- 
less prairies  of  the  Dakotas,  with  no  signs  of 
vegetation  along  the  railway,  and  but  little 
animal  life.  A  few  Indians  visit  the  station  on 
the  arrival  of  trains ;  some  to  barter,  others — 
blind  or  crippled — to  beg.  The  third  day  out, 
at  1 130  p.  m.,  we  reached  the  Glaciers,  where 
we    remained    twenty-four    hours.      Through 


Assinniboin,  north  of  western  Dakota,  we  had 
noticed  deep  furrowed  trails  of  the  buffalo 
crossing  the  road  from  north  to  south.  Now 
and  then,  their  bones  were  seen  in  white 
patches  on  the  prairies,  and  at  the  stations 
tons  were  ready  for  shipment  east  to  make 
tooth-brush  handles  and  bone  dust  for  soda 
fountains,  etc.  AVe  had  been  advised  to  stop 
at  the  Glaciers  instead  of  Banff,  perhaps  by- 
some  traveler  who  felt  the  inconvenience  of 
getting  up  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  to 
take  the  train.  We  regretted  it,  however, 
when  we  were  told  that  the  hotel  is  nestled 
among  the  mountains  rising  over  5,000  feet 
above  it,  all  of  them  snow  capped  and  far 
down  the  sides  of  the  deep  gorges  was  still  seen 
the  same  white  vestment.  The  Glacier  House, 
where  we  spent  the  night,  is  like  a  Swiss  chalet 
in  architecture.  To  sit  upon  its  piazza  and  gaze 
on  the  lofty  mountain  peaks  is  a  sublime  sight. 
To  watch  the  sun  climbing  its  sides,  rose-tint- 
ing the  snows  which  lie  like  a  mantle  over 
their  height,  is  not  soon  forgotten;  and  to  lis- 
ten to  the  mighty  roar  of  the  foaming  cata- 
ract, which  tumbles  over  the  precipitous  foot- 
hills, one  can  but  exclaim :  Almighty  One, 
how^  great  are  thy  works !  The  path  lead- 
ing through  the  forest  to  the  glacier  is  most 
picturesque,  but  not  easily  trodden.  The  con- 
stant fear  of  encountering  a  wolf  or  bear,  to- 
gether with  the  sight  of  the  great  mountain 
of  ice,   soon   cools  one's  ardor,  and  we  Avere 


RBC 
NcU 


content  to  retrace  our  steps  and  to  gather 
after  dinner  around  an  old-fashioned  stove  in 
the  exchange  of  the  Inn  with  a  score  of  trav- 
elers and  listen  to  the  stories  of  their  adven- 
tures and  have  for  an  object  lesson  skins  of 
the  grizzlies  but  lately  captured,  which  had 
not  a  soporific  effect,  but  less  terrific  than 
meeting  their  majesties  face  to  face. 

The  scenery  from  the  Glacier  House  to  Van- 
couver, through  the  Selkirk  Mountains  is  over- 
powering; around  countless  curves,  over  lofty 
trestles  and  ragged  edges  of  fearful  precipices 
the  line  of  cars  pursues  its  way.  The  stupen- 
dous heights  are  at  times  absolutel}^  shrouded 
in  smoke;  the  climb  of  twenty-seven  hundred 
feet  in  thirty  miles  around  the  mountain 
shelves  and  through  vast  snow  sheds  (most 
expensive  in  their  construction),  to  emerge 
again  into  the  light  for  a  glance  down  the 
gorges  into  the  glaciers,  over  and  above  to  the 
lofty  summits,  is  all  the  imagination  can  pic- 
ture, and  the  traveler  feels  like  a  "mighty  atom" 
in  the  midst  thereof. 

On  the  fifth  day  out  from  home  we  arrived 
in  the  city  of  Vancouver.  Our  vessel,  the 
"Empress  of  Japan,"  lay  at  anchor  very  near 
the  wharf,  and  after  securing  our  cabins 
and  seats  at  the  table  we  returned  to  the 
Hotel  Vancouver,  where  we  remained  from 
Saturday  till  Monday  morning.  Owing  to  a 
delayed  train,  we  did  not  sail  before  midnight. 
We    had    forty-seven   out-going    missionaries, 

9 


some  returning  from  a  vacation  granted  once 
in  seven  years,  others  were  about  to  enter  on 
untried  duties.  The  Rev.  S.  F.  J.  Scheres- 
chewsky,  v^ife  and  daughter,  were  among  the 
number.  He  was  a  paralytic — the  stroke  was 
superinduced  by  a  sunstroke  in  China,  where 
he  had  labored  heroically  in  a  translation  of 
the  Bible  into  the  Chinese  language.  He  was 
taken  to  Paris  where,  under  Charcot's  care,  he 
recovered  sufficiently  to  return  to  Cambridge, 
Mass.,  where  his  work  was  completed  ready  for 
publication.  This  he  desired  to  have  done  in 
Shanghai.  We  were  told  his  translation  would 
excel  all  others  that  have  ever  been  made. 

At  ID  o'clock  each  day,  during  the  voyage 
of  fourteen  days  the  missionaries  would  gather 
together  for  a  short  service  in  the  salon, 
where  admittance  was  free  to  all.  The  ship 
averaged  370  miles  a  day ;  a  few  of  the  passen- 
gers found  the  "rocking  in  the  cradle  of  the 
deep"  rather  disagreeable,  but  the  majority 
of  them  kept  their  chairs  and  were  well  repaid, 
for  the  air  was  a  tonic  too  good  to  be  missed. 
The  ship  was  well  disciplined,  the  table  invit- 
ing, the  service  entirely  Chinese — whose  sense 
of  decorum  was  most  marked. 

On  Sunday  evening,  the  thirteenth  day  out, 
we  expected  to  anchor  at  Yokohama,  but  a 
fearful  wind  arose;  the  captain  left  his  seat  at 
the  dinner  table  in  haste  and  ordered  the  ship's 
course  changed.  We  were  skirting  a  terrific 
typhoon.     We  were  in  sight  of  land,  but  in- 


10 


stead  of  reaching  it  at  seven-thirty  in  the  evening 
we  did  not  accomplish  it  until  lo  o'clock  Monday 
morning.  The  steamer  "Belgic"  was  stranded 
that  night  forty-three  miles  from  Yokohama.  The 
captain,  who  had  for  forty  years  made  successful 
trips,  was  destined  to  see  his  vessel  wrecked; 
no  lives  were  lost  but  the  rebuke  he  received 
cost  him  the  loss  of  his  position — and  much 
srreater  the  loss  of  reason.  He  was  taken  to 
a  madhouse. 

The  9th  of  September  found  us  in  the  hands 
of  our  guide,  who  had  been  engaged  to  meet 
us  on  board  the  vessel  on  our  arrival.  Jin- 
rikishas  were  in  waiting,  we  rode  to  the  cus- 
tom house  and  from  there  to  the  Hotel  Grand, 
along  the  Bund  skirting  the  water's  edge.  The 
sun  shone  brilliantly,  and  all  Nature  seemed 
to  bid  us  welcome.  The  hotel  site  is  un- 
equaled;  the  gentle  sea  breezes  seem  to  follow 
us ;  Englishmen  and  Americans  crowded  the 
verandas,  and  apparently  gave  us  a  warm  wel- 
come. Long  lines  of  jinrikishas  formed  a 
barrier  between  the  waters  of  Yeddo  Bay  and 
the  hotel,  each  in  charge  of  a  coolie,  whose 
dress  (if  any)  shocked  us;  but  to  this  nude 
condition  we  soon  became  oblivious. 

A  ride  along  the  shore  of  the  Mississippi 
Bay,  and  through  the  country  where  rice  and 
millet  grow  abundantly,  in  a  jinrikisha  with 
a  good  natured  coolie  is  a  delight.  The  Bunga- 
low of  the  native  all  exposed  to  view  is  a  sam- 


II 


pie  of  neatness,  while  the  children,  most  gen- 
tle with  each  other,  play  in  numbers  around 
the  home. 

On  this  drive  and  but  a  short  distance  from 
Yokohama  is  the  English  concession,  homes 
hidden  almost  from  view  by  high  walls  and 
dense  foliage.  In  that  land  of  sunshine,  with 
the  cool  breeze  from  the  sea,  the  constant  in- 
flux of  European  and  i\merican  travelers, 
keeping  one  in  touch  with  the  world  and  with 
the  simplicity  of  the  surroundings,  one  can 
imagine  a  tranquilizing  life  and  a  happy 
coterie. 

The  streets  of  Yokohama  are  narrow,  the 
houses  of  one,  sometimes  two  stories,  all  on 
line  with  the  sidewalk  and  with  apparentlv  no 
privacy.  The  gutters  are  flushed  with  water, 
which  seems  to  be  used  for  all  purposes,  even 
to  the  bathing  of  children.  The  absence  of 
horses  gives  ample  room  for  the  masses  of  men, 
women  and  children  who  throng  the  streets. 
No  haste  is  manifested,  save  when  a  line  of 
jinrikishas  of  heavily  freighted  coolies  appear, 
and  then  with  perfect  good  nature  the  right 
of  way  is  given.  No  menace,  no  insults  are 
heard.  The  perennial  smile  of  women  and 
the  submission  of  the  men  is  enough  to  con- 
quer all  antagonism  to  foreigners,  if  any 
exists.  Nevertheless,  a  guide  is  indispensable 
to  protect  against  intrusive  curiosity,  for 
wherever  you  stop,  there  the  gaping  crowd 
surrounds  you. 


12 


The  shopping  fever  seems  to  manifest  itself 
almost  immediatel}'  on  arrival  at  Yokohama ; 
in  fact,  I  heard  of  no  epidemic  so  fatal  to  vis- 
itors. Your  guide,  who  has  an  eye  to  the 
commission  he  will  receive  on  all  your  pur- 
chases, gives  you  his  advice  as  to  where  you 
shall  buy — to  his  best  advantage.  As  truth- 
fulness is  not  a  Japanese  virtue,  it  is  well  to 
consult  your  fellow  traveler  and  to  use  your 
own  judgment  as  to  qualitv.  Each  city  of 
Japan  seems  to  have  its  specialty ;  for  instance : 
We  found  the  handsomest  kimonas.  the  finest 
cloisonais  in  Yokohama ;  the  best  carving  in 
ivory  in  Tokio. 

As  for  a  gentleman's  outfit  it  would  be  ad- 
visable to  go  to  Yokohama  with  an  empty 
trunk,  for  good  materials  and  perfect  fit  are 
guaranteed  for  marvelously  low  prices.  There 
your  duck  suits.  Pongees  and  silk  underwear 
for  the  tropics  are  laid  in  with  great  satisfac- 
tion. The  adaptation  in  imitation  is  most 
striking.  A  waist  of  a  dress  given  the  tailor 
will  be  so  closely  copied  in  fit  and  style  and 
delivered  in  so  brief  a  space  of  time  that  it 
makes  you  fairly  sigh  when  you  think  of  the 
waste  of  time  and  mistakes  that  our  own 
modistes  often  subject  us  to,  but  there  is  no 
originality  displayed  by  the  Japanese. 

The  native  woman  is  always  clothed ;  the 
unmarried,  known  by  the  style  of  hair  dress- 
ing, are  neat  and  gayly  attired  in  their 
kimonas     and     bright     sashes,     are     attractive, 

13 


but  the  absolute  negligence  of  the  mothers 
is  revolting.  The  hair  if  not  in  strings,  is 
most  loosely  bound  up ;  no  more  pomade  and 
bows;  their  teeth  blackened,  and  their  bosoms 
so  exposed  that  their  elongated  condition  be- 
comes revolting.  We  were  told  that  supply 
of  the  human  dairy  never  ceases  while  the  de- 
mand exists.  No  sooner  does  one  child  let  go, 
than  another  takes  hold — hence  the  accessibility. 

To  visit  the  temples  is  of  daily  occurrence. 
There,  hundreds  of  natives  are  huddled  to- 
gether, prostrating  themselves  before  the 
tinselled  altars,  leaving  behind  them  in  the 
space  they  have  occupied  a  coin,  of  but  little 
value,  it  may  be,  but  something  to  denote  their 
willingness  to  support  their  religion.  These 
coins  are  gathered  by  the  priests,  and  a  theft 
is  unknown. 

Strangers  are  admitted  without  hesitancy  to 
the  rooms  where  cloisonai  and  bronze  are 
manufactured,  the  close  quarters,  the  sim- 
plicity of  utensils,  the  perfection  of  workman- 
ship, the  untiring  patience  is  to  the  nervous 
American  the  wonder  of  the  age. 

At  night  the  streets  of  the  city  are  thronged. 
Along  and  outside  the  curbstone  are  peddlers 
with  their  wares  spread  upon  the  ground  with 
a  single  lamp  light,  around  which  gather  the 
customers.  The  jugglers  seated  behind  open 
lattice  work  perform  their  feats  to  admiring 
groups,  while  theatrical  performances  all  in 
full  blast,  shut  up  from  view  from  the  street 
with  but  a  slight  screen,  seem  well  patronized. 


Many  women  are  sold  by  their  parents 
for  the  payment  of  a  debt  or  the  support  of  their 
famihes.  The  government  confines  these  charac- 
ters to  their  own  quarters ;  they  are  not  allowed 
on  the  streets  of  the  city.  We  turn  willingly  on 
the  following  day  to  something  more  elevating 
and  visit  Enoshina,  via  the  Imperial  Railroad. 
The  chief  object  of  interest  at  Kamakura,  our  first 
stopping  place,  is  the  "Dai  Butsa" — "Great  Bud- 
dha." It  stands  alone  as  the  highest  embodiment 
of  Japanese  art ;  height,  forty-nine  feet  and  seven 
inches ;  circumference,  ninety-seven  feet  and 
two  inches ;  surrounded  by  beautiful  Camphor 
and  Echo  trees.  This  bronze  image  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  erected  in  1252.  The  tem- 
ple built  over  this  image  was  destroyed  in 
1494.  Since  then  it  has  remained  exposed  to 
the  elements.  AVithin  the  image  is  a  space 
containing  a  shrine.  The  eyes  of  Buddha  are 
of  pure  gold ;  the  silver  boss  on  the  forehead 
weighs  thirty  pounds — it  signifies  light,  or 
wisdom.  Not  far  from  this  image  of  bronze 
stands  the  temple  of  Kovanon.  the  Goddess  of 
Mercy,  whose  image  is  seen  indistinctly  be- 
hind folding  doors.  It  is  of  brown  lacquer, 
gilded  and  is  thirty  feet  high.  We  enter  and 
involuntarily  lay  our  hand  upon  it  for  the  vir- 
tue that  may  arise  from  our  act  of  faith. 

We  again  summon  our  coolies  and,  along 
the  water's  edge,  are  drawn  to  the  hillside  on 
whose  summit  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
tea  houses  in  Japan.     The    ascent    is  rather 

15 


steep,  but  through  shaded  paths  lined  on  either 

side  with  stands  where  attractive  souvenirs 
may  be  purchased,  chopsticks  of  fancy  design, 
jewelry,  shell  ornaments,  etc.,  etc.  The  view 
from  the  tea  house  overlooking  the  sea  is  most 
charming.  There  our  guide  has  laid  for  us  a 
tempting  lunch  brought  from  the  hotel  at 
Yokohama.  Tea  and  service  is  offered  us  by 
most  graceful  Japanese  waitresses,  who  have 
no  hesitation  in  assisting  our  gentlemen 
change  their  clothing  for  the  bathing  suit,  that 
they  may  follow  them  to  the  water's  edge  to 
see  them  sport  like  fish  in  the  bright  blue 
waters,  and  w^ere  it  not  for  the  pestiferous 
fleas,  one  might  declare  the  excursion  perfect. 
The  journey  to  Niko  by  rail  is  most  diver- 
sified, shaded  for  miles  by  the  Cryptomeria 
trees.  The  pear  tree,  trellised  with  its  luscious 
fruit  somewhat  like  our  Russet  apple  or  a 
taste  akin  to  watermelon,  is  seen.  The  day's 
journey  is  made  all  the  more  agreeable  by  the 
luncheon  of  quail  sandwiches,  fruits  and  hot 
tea,  the  latter  made  by  our  guide  in  our  compart- 
ment. At  five-thirty  o'clock  in  the  evening  we 
arrive  at  the  Hotel  Niko,  the  weather  cold 
and  rainy,  a  poor  table  and  damp,  uninviting 
apartments.  A  brazier  is  at  the  solicitation 
of  the  guests  placed  in  the  drawing  room. 
There  we  barter  all  evening  with  natives  for 
furs  of  the  monkey,  idols  of  ivory  and  objects 
of  interest  of  wood  and  bronze.  The  trip  to 
Lake  Chuzendi,  eight  miles  from  Niko,  is  made 

i6 


by  chairs  and  jinrikishas  carried  and  drawn 
by  the  coolies.  For  our  party  of  four  we  take 
two  chairs  and  three  jinrikishas  and  seventeen 
coolies — four  for  each  chair,  two  to  pull  and 
one  to  push  the  jinrikishas.  The  third  jinriki- 
sha  is  for  our  guide  and  hamper  of  provisions. 
The  road  zigzags  in  many  turns  up  the  steep 
sides  of  the  mountain,  followed  by  a  dashing 
stream  issuing  from  Lake  Chuzendi,  known  as 
"Kenon-no-taks,"  which  falls  in  beautiful  cas- 
cades and  seethes  over  the  dizz}^  heights,  while 
our  sturdy  pullers  keep  up  a  tremendous  pace 
with  a  continuous  cry  of  warning  to  a  chance 
pedestrian  or  cart  of  a  street  vender,  whom 
we  meet  on  the  narrow  ledges  drawn  by  the 
same  patient  coolie.  Baskets  hung  on  a  pole 
and  borne  by  two  men  often  contain  a  native 
woman  and  perhaps  a  child;  mules  with  pan- 
niers so  large  filled  with  vegetables  and 
merchandise  that  you  can  scarcely  see  thie 
poor  animal,  slowly  plodding  along  this  highway 
led  by  a  woman  or  more  often  a  small  boy 
with  a  rain  cloak  of  straw  and  a  wide  brimmed 
hat  of  the  same  material,  which  are  so  cumber- 
some that  3^ou  look  almost  in  vain  for  the 
wearer.  We  dismount  wherever  a  fine  view  is 
obtainable,  and  invariably  find  a  tea  house. 
Attentive  w^aitresses,  clad  in  their  bright  ki- 
monas,  regale  you  with  small  cups  of  tea  and 
cake,  to  say  nothing  of  the  peppermint  candies 
offered  for  a  few  pennies  with  a  low  bow  and 
^»ewitching  smile.     Cushions    to  rest  upon — 

17 


with  invisible  occupants  (fleas),  who  insist 
upon  accompanying  you  during  the  journey, 
notwithstanding  your  efforts  to  shake  them 
off.  If  a  bright  day  is  vouchsafed  the  trav- 
eler the  view  from  the  summit  is  glorious, 
the  tea  house  commodious;  fishing  with  nets 
adroitly  thrown  brings  in  an  abundant  supply 
for  the  table.  Our  curiosity  led  us  into  an 
apartment  where  the  noon  meal  was  being 
prepared  by  a  wife  for  her  liege  lord.  The 
cooking  was  done  over  a  few  coals  in  a  brass 
brazier  filled  with  ashes.  A  steel  skewer 
placed  upright  in  the  ashes  on  which  was  sus- 
pended a  fish,  overhanging  the  coals,  which  by 
frequent  turnings  was  most  effectually  dried  and 
apparently  made  a  savory  dish.  An  omelet 
most  tempting  and  a  bowl  of  rice  was 
then  placed  upon  a  low  table  before  which 
the  husband  sat  upon  his  haunches  and  ate 
most  leisurely,  while  the  wife  retired  into 
a  corner  endeavoring  to  satisfy  a  hungry  in- 
fant. The  great  question  of  the  Orient  is: 
Will  the  day  ever  come  when  an  equality  of 
sex  will  be  acknowledged?  We  put  the  ques- 
tion to  our  well-educated  guide,  who  shook  his 
head  and  replied,  "In  America  women  rule,  but 
in  Japan  the  master  is  man."  A  missionary  told 
me  that  they  endeavored  early  to  marry  the  con- 
verted man  to  the  Christian  woman  and  to  in- 
sist that  they  should  sit  together  at  their  meals, 
but  it  was  a  hard  lesson  and  seldom  adopted. 
The  temples  of  Niko  surpass  all  others  that  we 

i8 


saw  in  Japan.  Broad  avenues,  well  shaded,  lead 
up  to  the  hills  upon  which  they  were  built.  In 
1617  Hidetada,  the  second  Shogun,  removed  the 
body  of  his  father  to  this  spot.  He  was  deified  by 
an  order  of  the  Mikado,  under  a  name  signifying 
"The  Light  of  the  East,"  the  great  incarnation  of 
Buddha.  His  grandson  finished  the  temple 
erected  in  memory  of  his  grandfather  and  was 
himself  enshrined  there.  The  five-story  pagoda, 
105  feet  high,  lends  interest  to  this  spot.  The 
decorations  of  these  temples  are  of  carved  wood 
in  panels,  painted  in  gorgeous  coloring.  Much 
of  this  carving  is  the  handiwork  of  the  celebrated 
"Hidare  Jingoro,"  other  work  that  of  "Tunza." 
The  group  of  three  monkeys,  blind,  deaf  and 
dumb,  and  the  "sleeping  cat,"  all  have  religious 
signification.  The  floors  of  these  temples  are 
covered  with  padded  matting;  in  consequence, 
no  one  is  allowed  to  enter  without  removing 
his  shoes,  or  slipping  a  cotton  covering  over 
those  he  has  on.  The  altars  are  ornamented 
with  immense  brass  storks,  with  candelabra  in 
their  mouths,  and  tinselled  lotus  flowers  with 
leaves  of  brass  are  much  in  vogue.  The  tombs 
are  guarded  with  painted  monsters  representing 
gods  of  Wind  and  Thunder.  The  services  are 
not  unUke  those  conducted  in  the  Catholic 
Church  by  continuous  chanting.  Pilgrims  are 
coming  and  going,  offering  their  prayers  after 
first  signaling  the  gods  by  ringing  a  bell,  the 
rope  of  which  is  often  made  of  human  hair,  a 
sacrifice  made  to    appease    the    gods  during  an 

19 


epidemic.  Near  by  and  in  the  same  enclosure  is 
the  sacred  horse,  a  stupid  looking  animal, 
guarded  by  an  old  woman,  who  for  a  trifling 
recompense  will  feed  it  a  few  beans  from  a  small 
saucer. 

From  Niko  we  go  to  Tokio,  a  city  of  magnifi- 
cent distances,  the  home  of  the  Mikado.  We  stop 
at  the  Imperial  Hotel,  the  best  kept  in  Japan. 
Temples  and  tombs  set  apart  in  sequestered 
groves,  seem  to  be  the  resort  of  pleasure-seekers 
and  pilgrims.  Once  the  ceremonial  worship  is 
over,  the  people  clap  their  hands  to  notify  their 
god  of  their  duties  having  been  performed,  and 
turn  for  rice,  tea  or  chat.  Many  of  the  petitions 
are  written  on  slips  of  paper  and  are  left  on  the 
gratings  that  protect  the  idols,  and  those  fright- 
ful guardians  at  the  entrance  are  frequently  cov- 
ered with  moistened  balls  of  paper  containing 
their  written  prayers. 

Thirty  years  of  civilization  has  not  changed 
the  agricultural  implements.  The  same  plow 
that  upheaved  the  soil  one  thousand  years  ago 
turns  it  now ;  the  same  punt  that  furrowed  the 
waters  is  the  same  to-day ;  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture of  the  old  Tartar  order,  derived  from  the 
old  Tartar  tents,  with  immense  curving  and 
overhanging  roof,  repeats  itself  in  keeps  and 
temples.  Possibly  this  stereotype  is  the  result  of 
being  for  ages  cut  off  from  other  nations.  The 
ponderous  bells,  struck  by  great  beams  of  wood 
swung  from  the  outside,  give  forth  mighty  mys- 
terious murmurings. 

20 


The  population  of  the  city  of  Tokio  is  a  mil- 
lion and  a  half  (1895)  2nd  covers  a  territory  as 
large  as  London.    The  castle  of  the  Mikado,  in 
the  center  of  the  city,  occupies  a  space  of  several 
miles  in  circumference.    There  are  three  castles, 
and  between  each  a  moat;  the  inner  side  of  each 
has  a  wall  of  sixty  to  ninety  feet  high,  built  of 
huge  stones  of  massive  weight.    The  inner  castle 
is  surrounded    by    beautiful    wooded    grounds, 
miniature   lakes,    streams    and    meadows.      The 
public  buildings  and  those  occupied  by  govern- 
ment officials  are  of  European  architecture.   The 
streets  of  the  city  are  narrow,  no  sidewalks,  and 
the  one-story  houses   serve    as    workshop    and 
residence  for  the  occupant.     The  inhabitants  go 
bareheaded,     carrying     umbrellas.     The     con- 
venience of  the  river  that  runs   through   Tokio 
and  the  canals  that  intersperse  its  streets  is  very 
apparent.      Public    education     is     compulsory. 
Japan  in  its  whole  extent,  with  all  its  islands  in- 
cluded, covers  about  as  much  territory  as  North 
and  South  Dakota  combined.     Although  it  has 
an  immense  system  of  irrigation,  only  one-twelfth 
of  its  soil  is  under  cultivation,  and  the  rice  crop 
entirely  dependent  upon  it.     The  population  of 
forty  million  of  people  of  untiring  industrv  is 
rewarded  by  a  mere  living.     For  centuries  the 
cultured  class  of  patrons  of  the  temples  have 
given  these  people  w^ork,  for  every  rich  temple 
adds  to  its  wealth  bronzes,  lacquered  work,  vest- 
ments  of  brocades,   tapestries  and   carvings  of 
images,  each  having  its  fire-proof  buildine  in 

21 


which  its  treasures  are  kept ;  they  are  not  seen 
in  the  temples.  As  for  the  missionary  work,  we 
visited  the  "Mary  Colby  Seminary,"  a  boarding 
and  day  school  in  Yokohama,  Miss  Grafton  of 
Vermont  being  principal.  At  that  time  there 
were  fifty  native  children  as  scholars,  most 
of  them  able  to  pay  for  their  own  tuition. 
It  is  impossible  to  calculate  the  strength  and  in- 
fluence of  these  teachings,  and  where  the  schools 
become  self-supporting  they  must  be  strong- 
holds. We  were  told  that  demand  for  teachers 
was  much  less  than  the  number  waitin?  to  be 
called.  At  Kiota  we  visited  the  "Dobisha 
School,"  a  university  started  in  1875,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  American  Board  of  Missions; 
connected  with  this  institution  is  the  girls' 
school  and  training  school  for  nurses ;  also  a 
hospital.  A  warm  reception  by  Miss  Benton, 
the  principal  of  the  girls'  school,  from  Los 
Angeles,  Cal.,  awaited  us.  and  we  were  shown 
through  the  buildings,  and  were  most  astonished 
at  the  well  built  and  commodious  edifices,  sur- 
rounded by  well  laid  out  grounds.  There  were 
not  a  half-dozen  scholars.  On  inquiring  why  the 
accommodations  were  so  great  and  the  number 
of  occupants  so  small,  we  were  told  cholera  had 
kept  many  away.  The  few  half-grown  girls  were 
seated  around  the  table  intent  in  reading  a 
translation  from  Shakespeare  of  "King  Lear," 
and  others  Walter  Scott's  "Lady  of  the  Lake." 
One  of  the  girls  played  upon  an  instrument 
some  four  feet  long  with  two  wire  strings.  Upon 


22 


the  third  finger  of  her  left  hand  she  wore  an 
ivory  ring,  and  with  this  she  would  strike 
the  ivory  knots  placed  at  intervals  on  the 
instrument,  producing  sounds  not  unlike  a 
guitar.  She  sat  upon  the  floor  and  seemed 
sullen.  The  teacher  remarked  to  us  that  many 
were  very  obstinate.  We  saw  the  table  prepared 
for  their  dinner — a  large  bowl  of  rice  in  the 
center  and  small  bov/ls  at  each  plate,  with  a 
dried  fish  upon  it  and  a  pair  of  chop  sticks.  One 
of  the  studies  most  enjoyed  is  the  arrangement 
of  flov/ers,  which  is  really  a  life's  study.  The 
ceremonial  tea  is  conducted  with  great  precision 
and  is  regarded  as  a  graceful  accomplishment. 
The  price  of  tuition  was  2  yen  80  sen  per  montli. 
caring  for  their  own  rooms  and  doing  their  own 
washing.  It  is  under  the  Congregational  and 
Presbyterian  auspices,  and  was  not  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition  financially.  After  this  we  visited  a 
dancing  school  which  was  most  interesting.  The 
teacher,  a  gray-headed  v>'oman,  sat  upon  the  floor 
with  a  dozen  or  more  pupils  around  her.  In  one 
hand  she  held  a  wand,  in  the  other  a  fan.  Each 
child  received  individual  instruction,  the  scholar 
standing  bare-footed,  with  her  eyes  fixed  upon  the 
instructor ;  in  her  hand  an  oiled  paper  parasol, 
which  when  swaying  her  body  to  and  fro  she 
handled  most  gracefully,  while  the  only  music 
was  the  old  woman's  voice  in  mournful  cadence, 
by  the  rythm  of  which  her  fan  seemed  in  sympa- 
thy. With  the  wand  she  would  strike  her  fan 
when  she  wished  an  emphatic  stamping  of  feet. 

23 


The  bronze  factories,  open  to  the  traveler,  are 
well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  mixture  of  gold, 
copper,  tin  and  silver  into  these  ornaments  are 
regulated  in  price  by  the  quantity  of  gold  and 
silver  used.  The  intaglio  figures  are  overlaid 
with  these  precious  metals,  and  the  deft  hand  of 
cunning  workmanship  is  perceptible  in  every 
article  produced.  The  Rapids  of  Katsuragawa 
(a  famous  resort  in  the  maple  season)  is  four- 
teen miles  by  jinrikisha  from  Kiota,  which  takes 
about  three  hours  and  a  half  to  accomplish. 
Our  party  of  five  required  five  jinrikishas  and 
ten  men,  much  of  the  road  being  upgrade  and 
through  tunnels.  Rice  fields  abounded  and  the 
scenery  wild  and  picturesque.  A  tea  house  at 
the  end  of  the  ride  affords  room  for  us  to  have 
our  own  luncheon  spread,  and  after  an  hour's 
rest  we  take  a  boat,  to  which  our  jinrikishas 
and  coolies  are  transferred.  The  descent  of  the 
rapids  requires  two  hours'  time.  The  pilot 
stands  half  clad  at  the  helm,  w^hile  three  men 
wath  long  ropes  attached  to  the  vessel  run  along 
the  rocky  shore,  pulling  with  all  their  strength. 
The  bed  of  the  river  is  rocky.  Artificial  im- 
provements have  been  made  rendering  the  chan- 
nel more  navigable,  but  the  weirdness  of  the 
scene  is  heightened  by  the  flashes  of  lightning 
and  the  low,  reverberating  thunder  claps  that 
were  followed  by  slight  rain.  The  boat  trem- 
bles and  bends  before  the  furv  of  the  waters. 
We  are  assured  that  the  pilot  is  skillful  and  an 
accident  is  the  exception.  We  land  at  Arashi- 
zama  and  resume  our  jinrikisha  ride  to  Kiota. 

24 


Alternate  days  are  spent  in  the  shops.  We 
find  jade  to  be  an  expensive  article.  The  stone 
is  very  difficult  to  carve,  hence  its  value.  The 
pale  green  in  color  is  most  desirable;  a  cup  of 
cornelian  red,  very  tiny,  was  145  yen;  a  small 
figure  of  a  lion,  beautifully  carved,  175  yen. 
There  is  a  superstition  among  the  natives  of 
Japan  and  China  that  anklets  or  bracelets  of 
jade  keep  ofif  the  evil  eye. 

We  next  visit  Nara,  the  holy  city.  It  is 
not  to-day  a  tenth  of  its  former  size,  as  it  is  no 
longer  the  imperial  seat  of  government.  Situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  mountains  are 
beautiful  groves,  through  which  wind  broad 
avenues,  shaded  by  the  cryptomeria  trees.  Tem- 
ples are  hid  away  in  sequestered  spots;  in  one 
of  these  the  sacred  rite  of  an  ancient  dance  is 
kept  up  by  priestesses.  For  a  stated  fee  you 
can  have  it  executed.  The  dress  worn  is  of 
ancient  type  and  bears  the  Wisteria  crest  of  the 
Hasaga  temple.  These  dancers  wear  a  white, 
expressionless  mask  ;  their  movements,  together 
with  the  doleful  music  furnished  by  the  priests 
with  kotos,  pipes  and  drums,  make  you  feel  well 
satisfied  with  a  brief  performance,  the  tune  sug- 
gesting Watts'  "Hark  from  the  tombs,  the  dole- 
ful sound,"  etc.  Here  we  meet  crowds  of  pil- 
grims enjoying  the  beautiful  groves  with  old 
trunks  of  trees  covered  with  camellias,  wisterias, 
plum  and  wild  ivy,  which  are  the  marvels  of  the 
place.  The  great  bell,  thirteen  feet  high,  con- 
taining thirty-six  tons    of    copper,  an  image  of 

25 


Buddha,  fifty-three  feet  in  height-,  and  a  museutn 
erected  and  sustained  by  the  government  are  the 
chief  attractions  of  Nara.  Together  with  the 
Temple  of  Taconda,  with  its  fine  wood  carvings 
and  its  beautiful  little  lake  near  by,  with  shoals 
of  speckled  fish  which  are  fed  daily  for  the  en- 
tertainment of  visitors.  Our  inn  was  strictly 
Japanese.  The  apartment  set  aside  for  us  was 
partitioned  into  rooms  by  mosquito  netting. 
Imagine  a  room  sixt}'  feet  long ;  at  intervals  of 
fifteen  feet  were  hooks,  placed  in  the  cornice, 
upon  which  were  hung  mosquito  nets  with 
teaster-tops,  forming,  as  it  were,  a  square  cham- 
ber. On  the  floor  of  each,  beds  were  made, 
which  consisted  of  three  or  four  comforters  or 
futahs,  immaculately  clean,  placed  one  upon  the 
other,  while  one  was  rolled  for  our  head  rest. 
Before  retiring  we  were  asked  to  place  our  val- 
uables in  the  hands  of  the  proprietor  for  safety, 
which  we  did  in  part.  Our  dinner  consisted 
of  soup,  chicken  and  potatoes,  beefsteak  and 
onions.  The  curiosity  of  the  waitresses  of  tlie 
inn  is  laughable;  nothing  escapes  their  eyes; 
even  the  linings  of  our  dress  skirts  were  investi- 
gated. 

The  founder  of  one  of  the  temples  is  said 
to  have  ridden  to  this  place  in  767  on  a  spot- 
ted deer.  Since  then  the  animal  is  almost  dei- 
fied and  is  by  some  supposed  to  be  a  messen- 
ger from  earth  to  heaven.  The  groves  are  full 
of  these  favorites. 

26 


Osaka,  the  Birmingham  of  Japan,  is  built 
upon  canals,  on  either  side  of  which  are  lines 
of  storehouses  containing-  cotton  goods,  china- 
ware  and  wooden  utensils.  The  castle  here  was 
occupied  by  a  military  force,  and  all  admittance 
was  denied.  Kobe,  two  hours'  ride  via  railroad, 
is  the  point  of  departure  for  us  from  Japan,  after 
sailing  through  the  Inland  sea  and  stopping  a 
few  hours  at  Nagasaki.  Kobe  has  an  English 
concession.  Club  houses,  banks  and  good  hotels 
gives  it  a  European  appearance.  The  Japanese 
portion  has  its  bazaar,  crematories  and  temples. 
The  hour  for  cremating  is  at  six  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  we  visited  this  place  in  time  to  see 
three  bodies  already  placed  in  the  furnaces ;  two 
of  these  were  in  casks,  as  they  w^ere  in  a  sitting 
position ;  that  of  an  infant  in  a  rude  box,  in  such 
as  our  oranges  are  shipped,  and  tied  with  twine. 
The  crematory  was  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  at  the 
foot  of  which  was  the  cemetery,  where  the  ashes 
were  interred.  The  sailing  of  the  "Empress  of 
China"  through  the  Inland  Sea  is  lovely  beyond 
description.  The  sky  cloudless,  temperature 
about  72  (Oct.  1st,  1895)  ;  Americans  and  Eng- 
lish crowded  the  deck.  The  harbor  at  Nagasaki 
is  fine.  War  vessels  from  almost  every  country 
lie  at  anchor  in  the  sparkling  waters.  The 
"Centurion"  of  the  British  line  and  the  "Char- 
leston," of  the  American,  commanded  by  Captain 
Coffin,  Messrs.  Sharp  and  Littlefield,  ofificers, 
gave  us  a  courteous  welcome.  When  the  day  v/as 
far  spent  and  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  re- 

27 


iiected  its  beautiful  coloring  on  the  waters,  which 
glistened  like  diamonds  in  an  emerald  setting 
around  the  vessels,  our  own  flag  waved  its 
colors  and  the  soul-stirring  strain,  "Should 
Auld  Acquaintance  Be  Forgot,"  aroused  all  the 
patriotism  and  tenderness  in  our  hearts.  As 
we  waved  a  good-bye  to  the  land  of  "The  Ris- 
ing Sun"  it  was  with  the  desire  that  we  might 
return  to  the  scenes  that  had  contributed  so 
much  to  our  enjoyment.  The  twelve  guns  fired 
from  the  "Centurion"  in  honor  of  the  occasion 
seemed  as  echoes  from  the  hills  bidding  us  adieu 
with  an  au  revoir. 


28 


FROM    JAPAN    TO    CHINA 
AND   CEYLON. 

Steamer  Empress  of  Japan, 
Yellow  Sea,  October  4,  1895. 

Seated  at  the  table  with  the  first  officer,  who 
proves  most  loquacious  and  intelligent,  we  dis- 
cuss the  "Prince  of  Wales,"  the  English  rule  in 
foreign  lands  and  the  works  of  George  D.Curzon, 
a  man  of  great  expectations  and  great  possibili- 
ties. He  loaned  me  "Problems  of  the  Far  East," 
which  I  found  most  entertaining,  clear  and  au- 
thentic. On  my  left  are  seated  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Ash- 
more.  The  former  has  been  forty-five  years  in 
the  missionary  field  in  China.  Mrs.  Ashmore, 
as  Mrs.  Brown,  was  the  founder  of  the  "Mary 
Colby  Seminary"  at  Yokohama,  afterwards  re- 
moving to  China  with  her  second  husband.  One 
of  her  daughters  married  Mr.  Curtis,  editor  of 
a  Kobe  paper,  the  other,  Air.  McCarty,  a  trans- 
portation merchant  of  Yokohama.  Mrs.  Ash- 
more  expressed  her  views  freely  regarding  the 
Dobisha  school  in  Kiota.  The  great  extrava- 
gance in  building  and  in  furnishing  the  uni- 
versity had  forced  it  to  the  verge  of  bankruptcy. 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Ashmore  labor  under  the  Baptist 
auspices,  and  both  feel  that  the  most  encourage- 
ment is  ofifered  the  missionary  in  China  rather 

29 


than  Japan.  The  conversion  of  the  Chinese  was 
far  more  permanent  when  once  accomplished 
than  that  of  the  Japanese;  they  were  more  truth- 
ful and  with  less  varnish.  We  have  on  board 
Isabella  Bird  Bishop,  gray-haired  and  with  mild 
blue  eyes,  rather  below  the  average  height  of 
woman.  She  writes  so  much  in  favor  of  Japan 
that  the  freedom  of  the  hotels  is  offered  her. 
After  the  third  day  of  smooth  saiUng  we  anchor 
in  the  Yang-tse-kiang.  as  one  writer  says,  "a 
stream  of  lofty  dignitv  of  conscious  might." 
Broken  short  ridges  of  mountains  are  seen 
from  a  distance,  with  valleys  and  plains  inter- 
spersed. The  great  plain  lying  on  the  sea  coast 
is  alluvial,  made  so  by  the  deposit  of  the  Hoang- 
Ho  and  the  Yang-tse-kiang  (Broad  River)  com- 
bined. The  former  river  often  bursts  its  con- 
fines, causing  great  destruction  to  life  and  prop- 
erty. The  mouth  of  the  Yang-tse-kiang  to-day 
is  far  removed  from  where  it  was  many  years 
ago.  The  Hoang-Ho  is  for  the  greater  part  of 
the  year  unnavigable,  owing  to  floods  during  the 
summer  months,  the  disasters  being  so  great  it  is 
sometimes  called  the  "Chinese  sorrow."  Fish 
abound  and  is  the  flesh  food  of  the  average  China- 
man, although  pork  is  his  delight.  The  mode  of 
fishing  is  varied ;  often  men  and  bovs  dive  for 
them,  but  the  more  entertaining  method  is  bv  the 
cormorant.  A  dozen  or  more  of  these  trained 
birds  are  perched  on  a  bamboo  pole  across  the 
bow  of  a  boat,  but  before  diving,  a  cord  is 
phced  around  their  throat  to  prevent  them  from 

30 


swallowing  their  prey,  and  thev  rarely  fail  to 
bring  up  one  or  more  fish.  Their  eagerness  for 
success  is  most  noticeable,  and  they  are  rewarded 
after  having  satisfied  their  owner,  by  being  given 
some  of  the  small  fry.  Our  steamer  anchored 
fifteen  miles  off  of  Shanghai,  and  our  heavily 
freighted  tender  was  two  hours  reaching  land. 
The  harbor  was  filled  with  bright  colored  sail- 
ing vessels,  junks  and  sampans,  stern-wheel 
kickaway  and  chop  boats ;  also  the  bateaux  of 
the  "Tanka"  girls  who  work  the  ferries.  The 
form  of  the  natural  eye  painted  on  these  vessels 
is  most  apparent;  the  reason  for  so  doing  is, 
the  Chinese  will  reply.  "No  eye,  no  see." 

We  at  once  contrast  the  well-built  and  im- 
proved bund  which  skirts  the  water's  edge  with 
the  less  pretentious  Japanese  ports.  It  is  not 
until  we  enter  the  Chinese  quarters,  with  its 
low  dwellings  and  apparent  squalor,  that  we 
realize  what  the  EngHsh  concessions  are  to  the 
traveler.  The  dress  of  the  Chinese  is  refresh- 
ing to  the  eye  after  our  sojourn  in  Japan,  where 
among  the  coolies  little  was  left  to  the  imagina- 
tion. 

The  drive  to  the  "Bubbling- Well,"  a  square 
enclosure  of  stone  some  eight  feet  in  dimension, 
reveals  a  spring  of  water  whose  surface  was 
green  with  slime,  from  which  issued  two  clear 
streams  of  pure  crystal  fluid.  Well-dressed, 
painted  Chinese  women,  guarded  by  eunuchs, 
drive  in  landaus  along  this  fashionable  drive, 
which  leads  to  club  houses  and    well    laid    out 

31 


grounds.  The  tiny  feet  of  the  women  as  they 
peep  out  from)  under  the  richly  embroidered 
gowns  assured  us  that  navigation  to  them  on 
foot  was  almost  impossible.  This  process  of  de- 
formity is  begun  about  the  sixth  year  of  their 
lives  and  rarely  fully  accomplished  before  the 
seventeenth.  The  suffering  is  said  to  be  intense. 
Government  has  in  many  provinces  interfered, 
and  as  civilization  advances  it  is  to  be  hoped  this 
cruelty  will  be  abolished.  A  missionary  told  me, 
in  appealing  to  the  Chinese,  "to  desist  from  this 
vain  and  sinful  habit,  they  would  at  once  retaliate 
by  replying,  'Why  do  American  or  European 
women  deform  their  waists  ?'  "  The  rough,  uncul- 
tivated fields  attached  to  the  homes  along  the 
drives  we  are  told  are  burial  places  of  their  dead. 
Mere  hillocks  of  earth,  so  scant  as  to  allow  the 
caskets  to  be  seen  plainly,  and  oftimes  skeletons 
protrude.  Do  you  wonder  that  epidemics  prevail  ? 
The  warning  is  constantly  given  the  travelers  to 
keep  away  from  native  quarters,  but  curiosity 
leads  us  into  temptation.  Warehouses,  manu- 
factories, shops,  theaters,  dwellings  and  temples 
are  crowded  together ;  the  streets  offensive  and 
disgusting.  The  shops  for  silks  in  the  English 
concession  are  most  fascinating.  Beautv  of 
coloring  and  quality,  with  most  unique  designs, 
are  offered  at  such  low  prices  that  one  must 
have  great  control  over  herself  to  resist  buy- 
ing in  quantities.  The  better  class  of  Chinese 
are  most  elaborately  gowned  in  these  gold  em- 
broidered textures — far  more   costly    than    the 


32 


simple  embroidered  kimonas  of  the  Japanese. 
The  absence  of  jeweh-y  in  the  latter  makes  the 
love  of  it  with  the  Chinese  most  conspicuous. 
Anklets,  imitation  of  jade  and  silver  bangles  are 
always  in  evidence. 

Jugglers  throng  the  piazzas  of  the  hotel,  and 
for  a  trifling  compensation  will  swallow  a  sword 
three  feet  long  which  he  flaunts  before  our  eyes 
and  which  disappears  to  all  appearances  down 
his  throat  with  great  strangling;  this  we  do  not 
ask  him  to  repeat. 

A  charming  sail  of  three  days  brought  us  into 
the  harbor  of  Hongkong.  The  city  is  built  on 
the  mountainside;  a  narrow  strip  along  the 
water's  edge  is  laid  out  in  a  fine  driveway,  ware- 
houses, hotels  and  club  houses  facing  the  water. 
The  dwellings,  with  beautiful  gardens  attached, 
are  built  upon  the  terraces  of  the  mountains, 
which  can  only  be  reached  in  sedan  chairs, 
borne  by  coolies.  The  botanical  gardens  are 
most  attractive  and  are  within  walking  distance 
of  the  hotel.  Alongside  of  these  gardens  is  the 
St.  John's  Cathedral,  in  Gothic  style  of  archi- 
tecture. The  clock  tower  is  a  conspicuous  build- 
ing from  which  all  local  distances  are  measured. 
On  the  summit  of  the  mountain  overlooking  the 
city  is  Victoria  Gap.  An  inclined  railway, 
worked  by  means  of  cable  to  an  elevation  of 
fourteen  hundred  feet,  leads  to  it.  It  cost  the 
city  140,000  Mexican  dollars,  and  pays  about  five 
per  cent  on  the  investment.  The  round  trip  is 
fifty  cents.     The  views  are  grand  in  extent,  but 

33 


it  requires  considerable  nerve  to  face  the  ap- 
parent danger.  However,  we  find  ourselves 
on  the  summit  in  an  incredibly  brief  space 
of  time.  The  ten  square  miles  of  harbor 
is  spread  out  before  you  with  its  myriads 
of  vessels  and  floating  hospitals.  The  en- 
joyment of  this  scene  quite  repays  one  for 
the  undertaking.  Queen's  road  (the  principal 
street  of  Hongkong)  runs  parallel  with  the 
water;  from  this  street,  running  toward  the 
mountain,  the  grade  is  uphill.  We  ascend  stone 
steps,  twenty  to  thirty  in  number,  to  reach  the 
street  beyond ;  consequently  we  do  not  frequent 
them  often.  Flowers  are  in  profusion  for  sale 
and  most  artistically  arranged.  The  drive  to  the 
"Happy  Valley,"  the  burial  place  of  the  Euro- 
pean, Parsees  and  Mahometans,  each  within  their 
own  walls,  is  indeed  aptly  named.  We  were  pre- 
ceded by  two  sedan  chairs  borne  by  four  coolies, 
each  dressed  in  red  kilted  skirts  and  white  tur- 
bans. The  occupants  were  two  small  boys,  eight 
and  ten  years  of  age,  with  their  amia,  or  nurses, 
who  bore  quantities  of  lovely  flowers.  On  alight- 
ing we  followed  them  to  two  freshly  made  graves  ; 
from  these  the  boys  removed  decayed  flowers  and 
placed  most  lavishly  those  they  had  brought  with 
them.  It  was  a  touching  sight.  We  imagined 
the  parents  had  been  the  victims  of  a  scourge  that 
was  still  hovering  over  the  city.  It  is  a  trying 
climate.  The  American  consul,  Mr.  Hunt,  from 
Tennessee,  called  upon  us,  and  we  returned  the 
visit  at  his  home,  nestled  among  the  palm  trees 

34 


and  alongside  the  botanical  gardens.  His  family- 
were  feeling  the  effect  of  their  protracted  sojourn 
here  and  yearned  for  a  change. 

The  distance  from  Hongkong  to  Canton  is 
ninety-five  miles  by  the  river.  We  were  some- 
what surprised  to  find  the  captain  of  our  ves- 
sel from  Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis.,  whose  family 
was  still  residing  there.  It  is  said  that  a  popu- 
lation of  300,000  people  live  in  boats  upon  these 
waters  and  have  no  other  home.  With  the  baby 
on  her  back  the  mother  swings  the  heavy  scull, 
while  the  other  children  act  as  ducks  in  the 
water,  some  being  tethered  to  the  vessel,  appar- 
ently without  any  sense  of  danger.  At  the  slight- 
est indication  that  one  of  these  boats  are  needed, 
fifty  or  more  will  rush  to  the  spot,  clambering 
in  loud  voices  for  their  rights ;  while  the  won- 
der is  that  the  baby's  head  does  not  roll  off  of 
its  shoulders.  The  mother  is  seemingly  indif- 
ferent as  to  its  existence.  Along  the  shores  of 
the  river  are  rice  fields  and  orchards,  inter- 
spersed with  pagodas,  which  from  a  distance 
look  like  hanging  gardens.  Chance  wind  bears 
sand  and  seed  to  these  overhanging  roofs,  and 
shrubs  and  flowers  grow  and  bloom.  Whampun 
and  Homan,  two  loftypagodas,  made  famous  by 
their  age  and  height,  are  seen  from  the  steamer, 
and  an  occasional  dead  body  of  a  Chinaman 
floats  by  us.  As  we  near  the  landing  of  Canton 
small  boats  filled  with  lepers  come  alongside 
soliciting  alms.  They  are  most  pitiful  in  appear- 
ance and,  judging  from  the  coins  thrown  them, 
it  is  the  only  means  of  their  maintenance. 

35 


Guides  are  in  waiting  at  the  steamer's  wharf, 
and  we  only  feel  safe  when  protected  by  them. 
Six  chairs  with  four  men  each,  made  up  our  van. 
Mr.  Wilder,  of  Honolulu,  had  joined  us.  These 
coolies  g-roan  as  they  trot  along.  With  the 
thermometer  about  80  and  no  clothing  save  the 
loin  cloth,  they  stop  only  long  enough  to  change 
the  pole  from  one  shoulder  to  the  other,  which 
are  lacerated  and  in  great  welts.  If  it  were  not 
for  the  novel  sights  that  meet  the  eye  the  sym- 
pathy aroused  would  be  too  trying  for  the  trav- 
eler. Canton  is  called  the  "City  of  Rams,"  or  the 
"City  of  the  Genii."  These  names  are  derived 
from  the  supposed  visit  of  fire-protecting  spirits 
that  came  from  heaven  two  thousand  years  ago. 
It  is  the  chief  trading  city  of  southern  China. 
Foreigners  first  visited  here  in  the  eighth  century. 
In  1568  the  Portuguese  were  in  China,  and  in 
1615  the  Tartars  invaded  it.  We  passed  through 
what  is  known  as  the  Tartar  town;  it  was  neater 
and  cleaner  than  the  other  quarters.  Later  the 
East  India  Company  took  possession  and  for  a 
century  and  a  half  controlled  the  foreign  trade. 
The  British  invaded  the  city  of  Canton  in  1841 
and  took  possession,  but  the  ransom  of  six 
million  was  made  for  its  redemption.  Again  in 
1857  the  allied  forces  of  British  and  French  cap- 
tured it,  and  for  nearly  four  years  it  was  in  the 
hands  of  foreigners,  its  government  being  admin- 
istered by  a  joint  commission.  It  has  now  its 
European  concession.  Canton  is  a  typical  Chinese 
city,  the  contracted  streets,  not  exceeding  six  feet 

36 


in  width  except  in  spaces  where  some  official  resi- 
dence or  temple  is  built.  It  is  with  great  diffi- 
culty we  make  any  headway  through  these  nar- 
row lanes,  and  are  often  compelled  to  leave  our 
chairs  and  with  our  guide  pursue  our  way  on 
foot.  If  by  chance  a  shop  is  entered  a  gaping 
crowd  so  surrounds  you  that  you  are  not  only  in 
danger  of  being  robbed,  but  of  losing  your 
guide.  The  foreign  quarters  are  separated  from 
the  mainland  by  a  stream  of  water  connected 
by  two  bridges.  A  Avail  encircles  the  native 
quarter  and  the  gates  are  closed  at  night  and 
guarded ;  the  discharge  of  firecrackers  in  the 
early  morning  announce  their  opening,  and  from 
the  river  boats  another  discharge,  almost  deafen- 
ing, which  is  supposed  to  keen  them  from  the 
"evil  one"  through  the  day. 

The  Temples  of  Confucius,  Buddha  and 
Shinto  religions  are  much  alike  in  their  construc- 
tion. One  of  the  most  famous  of  these  is  that  of 
the  five  hundred  Genii,  founded  in  five  hundred, 
the  year  of  our  Lord,  and  was  rebuilt  forty  years 
ago.  In  the  midst  of  these  immortal  five  hun- 
dred images  is  that  of  "IMarco  Polo,"  who  visited 
here  in  the  twelfth  century.  The  Temple  of 
Horrors,  whose  tableaux  in  brass  and  wood  rep- 
resent the  punishments  meted  out  to  those  in 
Buddha's  purgatory,  boiling  the  culprit  in  oil.  or 
grinding  him  in  a  mill,  or  still  worse,  to  place 
him  in  an  upright  position  between  two  planks 
of  wood  and  then  sawing  him  in  pieces — all  these 
pleasant  reminders  are  heightened  by  the  reincar- 

37 


nation  against  the  will  of  a  man's  soul  into  that 
of  a  wild  beast,  destined  to  another  life  here  on 
earth,  which  is  too  realistic  to  dwell  upon. 

The  Examination  Hall,  where  all  males  from 
eighteen  to  eighty  years  of  age  may  compete  for 
honors,  is  well  worth  a  visit.   Stalls  are  built  for 
12,000  students,  in  which  are  placed  a  table  and 
chair.     Once  the  man  is  seated  there  is  no  re- 
lease for  three  days.     A  strict  watch  is  kept  to 
prevent  any  communication;   even  if  a  death  oc- 
curs a  hole  must  be  knocked  in  the  surrounding 
wall  to  transport  the  body,  for  under  no  circum- 
stances are  the  gates  opened  during  the  trial. 
A  subject  for  an  essay  is  given,  and  each  appli- 
cant is  forced  to  render  an  example  of  his  ability. 
Less  than  two  score  of  these    receive    degrees, 
and  from  this  examination  they  go  to  a  higher 
court  in  Pekin  and  there  hi^h  honors  await  them 
in  official  positions.    No  caste  is  observed.  The 
water  clock,  built  five    hundred   years    ago,    is 
composed  of  three  copper  vessels  placed  on  top 
of  each  other  with  an  indicator  in  the  lower  one. 
The  passing  of  time  is  indicated  by  the  raising  of 
the  water  in  this  lower  one,  into  which  trickles 
the  same  fluid    from   those  above.     The  prisons 
seemed  crowded ;    the  inmates  were   chained    to 
stones  or  bars  of  iron,  all  apparently  in  one  large 
hall,  separated  from  the  spectators    by    upright 
bars  of  iron.    When  we  aporoached  they  made  a 
rush  toward  us  as  well  as  their  heavily  burdened 
limbs  would  allow,  and  begged  for  money  with 
which  their  freedom  could  be  bought.    The  yoke 

38 


some  wore  was  most  torturing.  T  could  think  only 
of  Dante's  inferno.  The  execution  <'rounds  was  a 
most  grewsome  place,  about  twenty-five'  feet 
long  and  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  used  dailv  for 
drying  and  storing  pottery.  The  prisoner  was 
made  to  kneel,  bowing  his  head,  while  the  exe- 
cutioner's ax  did  the  work.  We  saw  a  head 
which  had  been  decapitated  before  our  arrival. 
From  the  wall  of  Canton  we  could  see  mountain- 
sides, which  seemed  to  be  one  vast  number  of 
graves,  whose  entrance  were  in  the  form  of  a 
horseshoe.  In  the  city  is  a  building  they  call 
the  "Old  Man's  Paradise."  It  is  kept  up  by  the 
wealthy  class.  The  remains  of  the  male  dead 
can  be  left  here  for  five  years,  incased  in  a  huge 
lacquered  wood  coffin,  costing  $1,500.  Under  it 
is  placed  plates  of  lime  to  prevent  white  ants 
from  destroying  the  wood.  Before  the  coffin  is 
a  drop  curtain  to  shield  it  from  the  gaze  of  the 
passer  by,  in  front  of  which  is  an  altar  decked 
with  tinselled  flowers  ;  beside  this  is  an  empty 
chair,  around  which  are  grouped  wooden  images 
supposed  to  be  the  servants  of  the  departed  mas- 
ter waiting  his  return,  v,'ith  rice  and  tea  prepared 
and  placed  near  by.  A  couch  for  a  servant  who 
guarded  the  body  was  occupied  each  night.  The 
place  was  rather  attractive  than  otherwise.  We 
lunched  upon  the  walls  of  Canton  in  a  deserted 
buildinp-.  but  old  with  memories.  We  visited 
some  shops  where  the  crepe,  for  which  the 
manufactory  is  noted,  can  be  found  in  almost  all 
colors,  some  beautifully  embroidered,  for  mod- 

39 


erate  prices.  The.  markets  are  disgusting  with 
the  skinned  rats  and  bloody  fish  which  are 
offered  for  sale,  and  a  few  days'  sojourn  amidst 
such  surroundings  satisfies  the  traveler. 

On  our  return  to  Hongkong  (the  port  from 
which  we  sailed)  the  sight  of  the  French  steamer 
"Melbourne,"  which  was  to  bear  us  on  our  jour- 
ney, was  an  agreeable  vision,  although  on  that 
line  of  steamers  little  is  done  for  the  pleasure  of 
the  passengers.  We  took  on  at  Saigon  the  Gov- 
ernor of  Siberia,  his  wife  and  secretary;  also  the 
Siberian  IMinister  to  China,  with  his  wife,  with 
many  Russians.  The  ladies  of  the  party  were 
handsome,  and  often  regaled  us  with  their  beau- 
tiful voices.  A  Japanese  colonel,  who  had  by 
his  feats  of  bravery  made  himself  famous,  sat  at 
my  right  at  the  table,  and  it  was  with  great  in- 
terest I  listened  to  him  telling  of  his  trip  on 
horseback  from  Russia  on  the  Trans-Siberian 
line  to  China,  which  took  seventeen  months  to 
accomplish,  with  the  use  of  three  horses.  The 
extreme  cold  of  Siberia,  45  degrees  below  zero, 
with  those  sluggish  peonle,  made  the  days  he 
spent  with  them  most  memorable.  He  averaged 
twenty-five  miles  a  day,  traveling  through  grand 
forests,  and,  as  daylight  continued  till  midnight, 
he  was  enabled  to  travel  much  at  night  during- 
the  summer  months.  He  was  in  the  employ  of 
the  Japanese  government.  We  afterward  met 
him  at  Cairo.  Two  days  out  from  Hongkong 
(Oct.  19,  1895)  we  skirted  the  Island  of  Hainan, 
which  is  separated  from   the  mainland  of  China 

40 


by  the  Gulf  of  Tonquin,  and  passing^  the  Empire 
of  Anan  we  enter  the  St.  James  River,  eight  de- 
grees north  of  the  equator — Far.  83.  The  river  in 
width  is  about  forty  rods,  the  banks  of  which  on 
either  side  are  covered  with  dense  jungles.    The 
mango    and    banana  tree  were    strangely  inter- 
mingled with  vines  covered  with  flowers,  while 
groups  of  monkeys  keep  up  a  perpetual  chatter 
and  bright  plumed  parrots  were    seen    at    every 
turn,  to  say  nothing  of  the  wild  boar  that  were 
hid  among  the  jungles.     The  low  thatched  huts 
along  the  shore,  surrounded  by  the  waving  palm 
tree,  looked  rather  attractive  at  a  distance.    The 
dress  of  the  Coachin-Chinamen  consists  of  long, 
loose  flowing  trousers,  with  a  black    or    white 
robe  falling  from  the  shoulders,  and    a    red    or 
white  turban  on  their  heads.    The  heat  at  Saigon 
in  October  was  oppressive,  and  we  were  advised 
to  keep  aboard  the  vessel  till  late  in  the  even- 
ing.    Our  ride  to  the  botanical  gardens   over 
smooth  roads  of  red  clay  in  the  jinrikisha,  with 
a  bright  turbaned  coolie,  was  most  picturesque 
amid  the  perfection  of  tropical  growth  of  plants 
and  trees.     Convoys   of   storks,    plumed   golden 
pheasants,  the  Coachin  China  chickens,  cages  of 
monkeys,  leopards  and  bears  all  amuse  and  en- 
tertain the  traveler.     Saigon  is  a  French  conces- 
sion and  has  at  least  100,000  inhabitants.     Late 
in    the    afternoon    the    Governor    General    of 
Coachin  China  boarded  the  vessel  with  his  son. 
Citizens  in  their  white  duck  suits  and  pith  hel- 
mets and  soldiers  escorted  him  to  the  steamer 

41 


in  their  bright  uniforms  with  great  ceremony  to 
bid  him  bon  voyage  to  France  to  negotiate  a 
loan  in  behalf  of  a  projected  railroad.  The  gov- 
ernor wore  the  decoration  of  the  Legion  of 
Honor  and  was  most  dignified  in  his  bearing. 

A  smooth  sea  and  fair  breeze  made  the  next 
two  days  and  a  half  fairly  enjoyable,  but  the  heat 
was  overpowering  at  times;  the  nights  were 
spent  by  many  on  deck,  where  the  firmament 
could  be  enjoyed,  as  the  Southern  Cross  was 
seen  in  its  great  beauty.  Singapore,  the  next 
stopping  place,  afforded  us  a  fine  drive  in  a  char- 
iot through  the  country.  These  vehicles  seat  com- 
fortably four  persons,  a  charioteer,  who  drove, 
and  an  outrider  seated  behind.  Their  turkey-red 
calico  sacques,  with  a  white  cheese  cloth  skirt  and 
high  red  turban,  gave  them  a  showy  appearance, 
while  the  diminutive  animal  which  drew  us  in 
the  most  submissive  fashion  plodded  his  way  over 
the  well-rolled  roads  of  red  clay.  The  tropical 
growth  of  trees  and  shrubbery  almost  hid  from 
view  the  bungalows  of  the  better  class  of  people. 
These  buildings  were  one  story  in  height,  sur- 
rounded by  wide  verandas,  the  roofs  of  which 
were  thatched  with  huge  palm  leaves,  while  the 
bamboo  split  in  two  formed  excellent  gutters  to 
convey  the  water  to  the  ground.  Dates  hung  in 
profusion  upon  the  trees  alongside  of  the  road, 
and  bananas  half  as  long  as  your  arm  were  of- 
fered you.  the  taste  of  which  is  very  unlike  ours. 
The  palm  and  rubber  trees  grow  like  the  forest 
trees  in  our  own  land.    The  red  and  white  arbis- 

42 


cus,  running  wild  over  trees  and  house,  with  the 
ox-eyed  daisy,  almost  as  large  as  the  sunflower, 
and  the  marigold,  which  is  the  flower  that  the 
Indian  idolater  uses  in  his  worship,  grows  in  pro- 
fusion here.  The  abundant  moisture  from  fre- 
quent showers,  followed  by  a  blazing^  sunshine, 
produces  that  tropical  luxuriance  for  which  this 
portion  of  the  Orient  is  celebrated.  To  sit  unon 
the  steamer's  deck  at  early  dawni  one  sees  close 
to  the  horizon  in  the  north  the  Pole  Star,  in  the 
south  a  few  degrees  higher  the  constellation  of 
the  southern  cross  is  in  full  view,  while  on  land 
the  scene  of  the  greatest  activity  is  at  this 
hour.  The  rude  cart,  drawn  by  cream-colored, 
humped-back,  reversed-horn  cattle,  driven  by  a 
coal-black  Tamil  in  a  bright  red  turban  and  per- 
haps a  loin  cloth,  lends  interest  to  the  picture,  and 
the  superb  shoulders  of  the  natives  are  well  ex- 
hibited, as  they  unload  from  barges  drawn  close 
to  the  steamer's  side  huge  sacks  of  coal^  which 
they  heave  to  one  another  till  they  reach  the  hold 
of  the  vessel.  This  is  performed  mostly  by 
women  with  a  weird  chant  of  "heave  ho"  that 
seems  to  render  the  task  less  irksome. 

Singapore  was  purchased  by  the  British.  It 
is  the  greatest  tin  producing  country  in  the 
world.  Sago  is  grown  in  quantities  and  shipped 
to  every  port;  it  is  the  pith  of  the  tree  trunk. 
Here  the  gum  of  the  rubber  tree  is  gathered  and 
dried  in  chunks,  placed  in  gunny  bags  and  sent 
to  all  quarters  of  the  globe  in  the  crude  state. 
The  rattan,  which  is  elaborately  woven  by  the 

43 


natives  into  chairs  and  other  useful  pieces  of 
furniture,  is  light  in  weight  and  capable  of  great 
endurance.  The  tree  grows  like  a  palm  to  a 
great  height,  throwing  above  ground  long 
tendrils  extending  a  half  mile.  These  are  cut  in 
lengths  of  thirty  feet,  soaked,  scraped  and  ready 
for  use.  The  indigo  bush  is  cut  and  dried,  then 
boiled,  the  sediment  forming  the  dry  substance 
exported.  Tea  is  also  cultivated  successfully. 
Mangoes,  yellow  as  pumpkins,  in  shape  of  pears, 
with  disagreeable  flavor,  but  most  in  favor  with 
the  natives,  as  well  as  the  children  of  adoption, 
are  the  Dorean  fruits,  with  custard-like  contents, 
offensive  to  the  smell,  but  agreeable  to  the  taste. 
The  business  portion  of  the  city  is  substantially 
built,  but  we  were  told  that  the  use  of  opium, 
like  the  Upas  tree,  casts  a  blight  on  this  fair 
country  and  its  inhabitants.  We  invited  a  mis- 
sionary to  dine  on  the  steamer  with  us.  He  con- 
ducted a  boys'  school  of  600  pupils.  The  build- 
ing cost  $20,000,  built  by  local  contributions  of 
the  English  and  Chinese.  They  practice  the 
Salvation  Army  methods  in  gathering  audiences 
for  Bible  instruction,  and  those  who  accepted 
Christianity  closely  adhered  to  their  vows. 

We  now  enter  the  straits  of  Malacca,  as 
smooth  as  a  river,  but  clouds  and  showers  ren- 
der the  atmosphere  low  and  depressing.  We 
meet  on  the  steamer  those  who  have  spent  years 
in  this  climate.  A  lady  from  Holland  told  me 
that  it  was  so  exhausting  that  life  was  almost 
unendurable.     She  spoke  of  the  Queen  of  Hol- 

44 


land,    the    young    "Wilhelmina,"    and    of    her 
mother,  the  Dowager  Queen  Emma,  now  acting 
as  regent.     She  was  the   second  wife  of  King 
William  of  Holland,  and  had  this  only  daughter. 
He  had  three  sons  by  his  first  wife,  all  deceased. 
This  present  widow  was  a  German  princess,  and 
at  this  time  (1895)  was  thirty-four  years  old  and 
her  daughter  fifteen.     It  was  very  evident  from 
the  conversation  of  this  Holland  lady  that  Ger- 
mans were  in  disrepute    with    her    people — the 
Holland  Dutch.     From  the  straits  we  run  into 
the  Indian  Ocean,  "with  a  wet  sheet  and  a  flow- 
ing sea,  and  a  wind  that  follows  fast."    To  for- 
get the  swell  I  take  up  a  sensational  novel,  "The 
Old  Love  and  the  New,"  but  that  influence  is 
not  enough  to  drive  away  mal  de  mer,  that  soon 
gets  the  better  of  the  passengers  and  drives  us 
to  our  cabins.     Four  days  of  sailing  brings  us 
fo  Ceylon's  shores,  where  we  fail  to  catch  the 
spicy  breezes  of  which  we  have  so  often  sung. 
We  are  on  deck  early  to  realize  the  descriptions 
given  of  the  southern  coast  of  this  island,  then 
turn  northward  and  round  into  the    harbor    of 
Colombo.    The  hotels  and  government  buildings 
are  located  along  the  quay.     The  forest  of  co- 
coanut  palms  and  the  lofty  peaks  of  the  moun- 
tain form  an  impressive  background.     Ceylon 
is  two-thirds  as  large  as  Ireland  and  is  in  pos- 
session of  the  English.    Some  English  writer  has 
said  "that  in  the  train    of    England's  conquests 
comes  the  broadest,  wisest  and    most    tolerant 
statesmanship  the  world  has  ever  witnessed.   To 

45 


be  humbled  by  her  is   to  be  exalted  by  her." 
There  seemed  a  good  feeling  betv/een  the  natives 
and  their  rulers.     The  Oriental  Hotel  swarms 
with  people  of  all  nations.     Breakfast  is  served 
in  your  room,  consisting  of  cofifee,    toast,    fruit 
and  sweets.     Luncheon    is    a    hasty  meal,  but 
dinner  to  the  foreigner,  served  at  7  or  8  p.  m., 
seems  thoroughly  enjoyable.     The  Englishman, 
dressed    in   black   trousers,   broad   sash-belts   of 
black  or  red  silk,  which  seems  to  make  more  pro- 
nounced the  smooth  shirt  bosom,  with  a  spotless 
white  pea-jacket,  forms    a    refreshing    costume. 
Ladies  almost  invariably  are  in  low-neck  black 
dresses,  with  a  broad  piece  of  white  lace  which 
droops    gracefully    as    a    bertha,    with    bright 
flowers  in  their  hair,   while  a  band  of  stringed 
instruments   makes   the    scene   enlivening.     The 
broad   arcade    from    which    you   enter   the   din- 
ing   hall    is    after    dinner    filled    to    overflow- 
ing with    guests    seated    around    small    tables, 
v.'here  brandy  and  cofifee  is  served,  and  is  the 
harvest  time  of  the  tradesmen,  who  are  allowed 
to  spread  before  you  their   embroideries,    laces, 
jewels  and  baskets  of  curious  workmanship  and 
bright  colors,  together  with  elephants  of  ebony 
and  ivory.    Close  to  the  entrance  of  the  hotel  are 
jugglers  with  their    baskets    of    cobras,    whose 
poisonous  fangs  have  been  extracted :    together 
with  the  dwarfed  trees  which  miraculously  grow 
before  your  eyes,  and  divers  tricks  are  performed 
to  entertain  the  stranger  and  to  earn  for  them- 
selves a  scant  livelihood.     The  Singhalese  and 

46 


Tamil  women,  men  and  children,  whose  features 
seemed  carved  in  ebony,  are  of  the  Ayran  race — 
so  different  from  the  Mongol  Malay  race.  It  is 
amusing  when  riding  to  be  followed  by  the  na- 
tive children  crying  "No  papa,  no  mamma,  no 
rice."  And  when  these  claims  are  recognized 
they  laugh  immoderately  and  wait  for  other 
persons  to  attack  with  the  same  pathetic  appeal. 
A  drive  to  the  Cinnamon  garden,  in  the  midst 
of  which  is  a  fine  museum  with  a  rare  collection 
of  sea  urchins;  these  fasten  themselves  to  a 
rock,  in  which  with  their  black,  stiff,  cigar- 
shaped  feelers  they  dig  a  cell,  resembling  ma- 
chine work  so  accurate  are  they  in  their  meas- 
urement to  fit  their  bodies.  Here  we  are  shown 
the  original  tooth  of  Buddha,  which  looks  more 
like  a  small  tusk  of  an  elephant.  This  is  placed 
under  a  glass  cover ;  the  sea-horse  suckling  its 
young,  the  myriads  of  birds,  besides  every  wild 
beast  of  the  forest  are  finely  preserved.  The 
bungalows  of  more  wealthy  inhabitants  are  built 
along  these  beautiful  drives,  and  are  almost  con- 
cealed by  the  dense  foliage,  and  must  necessarily 
be  damp,  as  the  sun's  rays  can  scarcely  enter. 
We  are  offered  neatly  bound  bunches  of  cam- 
phor wood  and  cinnamon  by  children  on  the 
road,  but  which  have  little  aroma  left.  The  men 
are  athletic  in  appearance,  erect  and  graceful, 
hair  black  and  curly.  The  Singhalese  wear  a  cir- 
cular shell  comb  to  confine  their  glossy  curls. 
The  men  are  semi-clad;  the  women  wear  low- 
neck  corset  covers  with  an  ample  strip  of  cloth 

47 


that  is  pinned  around  the  body  for  a  skirt,  which 
shows  the  ankles  with  their  silver  anklets, 
while  the  black  neck  and  arms  are  adorned  with 
gilt  beads  and  bangles,  the  nose  and  lobes  of  the 
ear  being  pierced  and  fairly  weighed  down  with 
jeweled  rings.  The  deformity  is  appalling 
among  the  lower  class ;  their  only  compensa- 
tion is  that  the  stranger  never  passes  them  by 
without  bestowing  some  gift,  denoting  their 
sympathy.  We  are  in  Ceylon  in  the  tail  end  of  a 
monsoon  (October  30).  Such  sheets  of  water, 
deluging  alike  streets  and  people,  are  scarcely 
heeded — so  soon  do  the  sun's  rays  dry  up  the 
roads.  We  take  a  cart  drawn  by  two  bullocks, 
goaded  by  a  small  boy,  who  sits  on  the  yoke  and 
so  close  to  the  animals  that  one  can  scarcely  de- 
tect his  mode  of  thrusting  a  sharp  steel  instru- 
ment into  the  body  to  make  them  move,  but  this  is 
his  great  incentive,  as  he  easily  could  outwalk 
them;  it  is  the  novelty  that  attracts,  not  the  speed. 
We  are  landed  close  by  the  market,  where  all 
fish,  fowl  and  vegetables  are  sold.  We  purchase  a 
bunch  of  Betel  leaves,  neatly  piled  one  upon  the 
other.  The  nut  of  the  same  bush  is  cut  into  small 
pieces,  mixed  with  a  teaspoonful  of  slackened 
lime,  and  a  little  tobacco  or  more  often  opium. 
This  mixture  laid  upon  a  leaf  is  rolled  and  we 
are  asked  to  try  it.  We  give  that  pleasure  to 
our  small  boy  or  guide.  One  of  these  leaves 
will  be  material  enough  for  two  or  three  hours' 
pleasure,  and  the  coolie  is  seldom  seen  without 
this  delectable  morsel  in  his  mouth.    He  seldom 

48 


expectorates  but  seems  to  swallow  the  fluid, 
which  is  like  red  ink  in  color;  the  habit  is  most 
disgusting,  but  assuages  hunger. 

We  frequently  see  on  the  children's  naked  body 
a  cord  around  the  loins.  The  placing  of  this  is  a 
religious  ceremony,  with  a  religious  signification. 
The  drive  along  the  beach  is  grand,  and  the  roads 
smooth.  The  crowds  of  English  and  Australians 
taking  their  evening  outing,  cheered  by  the  music 
of  the  military  band  and  stimulated  by  the  dash- 
ing of  the  breakers  on  the  sea-girt  shore  add  to 
the  pleasure.  If  you  are  walking  you  are  waylaid 
at  every  step  by  some  drummer  who  represents 
his  own  or  the  shop  of  some  one  whose  jewels  are 
displayed  in  the  greatest  profusion.  Sapphires, 
diamonds,  rubies  and  pearls  and  other  stones  are 
shown  the  customer  until  the  eye  fairly  wearies 
of  the  sparkle.  If  you  decide  not  to  purchase 
them  but  to  call  again,  woe  be  to  you  if  you  do 
not  keep  your  word,  as  you  are  followed  and  the 
cry  of  "Lady,  come  back,  you  promised!"  be- 
comes a  trifle  wearisome. 

To  visit  Kandy,  situated  eighteen  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  in  the  mountains  of  the 
interior  of  Ceylon,  we  take  passage  on  a  rail- 
road of  marvelous  engineering.  To  quote  a 
traveler's  words  may  give  you  some  idea  of 
the  beauty  of  the  views  obtained :  "As  one 
skirts  the  flanks  of  the  mountains  and  looks 
down  into  an  enormous  gorge,  its  sides  clad 
with  the  most  beautiful  and  varied  foliage  of 
flowers   and    trees,   and   on   the   level   bottom 

49 


lands  can  be  seen  cascades,  which  are  formed 
by  the  artificial  lakes  that  overflow  the  exqui- 
sitely delicate  green  of  the  young  rice."  Our 
attention  is  directed  to  the  Tollipot  tree,  which 
flourishes  for  sixty  years,  and  blooms  just  before 
it  dies.  The  bloom  is  at  the  top  of  the  tree 
and  reminded  me  of  huge  bunches  of  pampas 
grass.  The  distance  from  Colombo  to  Kandy 
is  seventy-eight  miles.  Roundabout  this  re- 
gion live  the  tea  planters  with  their  families. 
Kandy  is  a  resort,  during  the  summer  season, 
for  the  inhabitants  of  the  lowlands,  and  is 
built  on  the  shore  of  a  charming  little  lake,  its 
banks  shaded  by  the  Tamarind  and  roval  palms. 
The  vine-clad  bungalows  add  to  its  attractive- 
ness. Within  sight  of  the  hotel  is  the  Malag- 
awa  Buddhist  temple,  the  most  sacred  of  the 
shrines  of  Buddhism.  We  are  again  shown 
an  actual  tooth  of  the  Deitv,  two  and  one-half 
inches  long  and  one  inch  wide. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  a  great  fes- 
tival was  held  at  the  temple.  The  procession 
was  headed  by  eight  standard  bearers,  dresserl 
in  full  white  skirts,  followed  by  eight  more 
in  red  costumes.  Their  waists  were  uncov- 
ered. They  bore  aloft  flaming  torches,  fol- 
lowed by  the  most  fantastically  dressed  mu- 
sicians beating  drums  and  dancing  in  a  fran- 
tic manner.  Close  behind  these  were  the 
"Devil  dancers,"  four  in  number,  whose 
skirts  of  gay-colored  silks  were  elaboratelv 
studded   with   jewels   and   turbans   to    match. 

50 


These  skirts  were  so  full  that  when  makins;- 
their  convolutions  they  looked  like  inflated 
balloons.  The  contortions  of  their  bodies  were 
painful  to  witness,  and  as  the  reflection  from 
the  torches  lit  up  their  faces  one  could  but  feel 
they  were  aptly  named.  Three  elephants 
walked  abreast,  most  gorg-eously  apparelled, 
and  moved  with  a  dignity  most  surprising. 
They  wore  jewelled  masks,  their  bodies  envel- 
oped with  jewelled  mantles,  while  on  the  back 
of  the  center  animal  rested  a  gilded  cage,  in 
which,  in  a  pagoda-shaped  vessel,  was  the  sa- 
cred tooth.  Following  the  elephants  were 
more  drummers,  more  Devil  dancers  and  other 
elephants,  whose  huge  tusks  were  incased  in 
gold.  Each  animal  was  closely  guarded  by 
his  keeper,  while  riders  sat  astride  in  the  most 
gorgeous-colored  skirts  and  turbans.  The 
chief  man  of  the  temple,  representative  of  the 
old  Kandy  kings,  rivaled  Falstaff  in  his  ap- 
pearance. He  wore  a  full  white  skirt,  a  large 
white  hat,  with  a  white  mantle  or  cape  thrown 
over  his  shoulders.  His  dignified  tread  was 
akin  to  that  of  Jumbo,  and  was  greeted  by  all 
along  the  procession.  We  were  told  he  was 
the  banker  of  the  village.  During  the  August 
festival  the  procession  is  much  more  impres- 
sive, as  three  hundred  elephants  are  in  line. 
The  festivities  ended  by  a  feast  at  the  tem- 
ple. Along  each  side  of  the  entrance  the 
poor  of  the  village  sat  with  their  empty  ves- 
sels, which  were  to  be  filled  by  those  in  author- 

5t 


ity.  Buddha  was  most  conspicuous  on  the 
altar  of  the  temple,  carved  woods  and  ivories 
surrounding  the  image,  where  later  a  dance 
was  performed ;  but  we  were  too  unholy  to  be 
permitted  to  remain  and  witness  it.  A  descrip- 
tion of  the  Paradeniza  gardens  would  be  like 
attempting  to  picture  to  one's  imagination  the 
Garden  of  Eden.  The  two  hundred  and  fifty 
varieties  of  palms,  the  bamboo,  one  hundred 
feet  high  and  growing  in  clumps  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  give  some  idea 
of  the  tropical  growth.  We  see  spicy  cinna- 
mon, the  chinchona,  the  upas  tree,  the  latter 
bearing  to  a  great  height  its  lofty  head,  not  un- 
like a  palm  in  growth,  with  its  bark  gray  and 
spotted  like  a  snake.  It  is  not  indigenous  to 
the  soil,  but  comes  from  Java,  where  its  dense 
groves  are  called  the  "Valley  and  Shadow  of 
Death,"  and  when  T  stood  under  its  shade  without 
knowing  the  tree,  I  will  confess  a  superstitious 
fear  came  over  me  when  I  was  told  by  our  fright- 
ened guide  that  I  was  in  danger.  The  candle  tree 
produces  a  fruit  shaped  like  a  candle,  but  not  edi- 
ble. The  traveler's  palm  gives  the  thirsty  trav- 
eler a  refreshing  drink  when  an  incision  in  the 
stem  of  its  leaves  is  made.  Cocaine  grows  in  pro- 
fusion, while  alongside,  coffee  and  tea  plants  and 
nutmegs  and  other  spices  grow  apace.  The 
Jacqueminot  and  La  France  roses  grow  to  the 
size  of  saucers,  while  the  orchids  fasten  themselves 
like  grape  vines  over  wooden  props,  beauti- 
ful and  varied  in  color,  and  are  native  to  the 

5* 


jungles,  brought  therefrom  and  sold  by  coolies 
to  the  traveler  for  a  pittance.  The  governor's 
palace  is  beautifully  located.  From  its  win- 
dows we  gaze  upon  a  beautiful  river,  while  the 
grounds  are  watered  from  the  spray  of  foun- 
tains. The  palace  was  unoccupied  and  we 
were  permitted  to  go  through  its  spacious 
rooms  and  halls.  The  drives  all  about  Kandy 
are  fascinating,  and  are  made  more  so  by  now 
and  then  a  temple  hid  almost  from  sight,  but 
of  interest  when  visited,  while  the  industrious 
weaver  of  straw  mats,  a  yard  and  a  half  in 
length  and  a  yard  wide,  meets  us  along  the 
way,  urging  us  to  buy — a  temptation  we  can- 
not resist,  although  Ave  wonder  what  we  shall 
do  with  them  when  we  get  them.  But 
adieux  must  be  made  to  Ceylon,  with  its  spicy 
breezes,  for  the  "Steamer  Pekin"  lies  at  anchor 
off  Colombo  which  is  to  bear  us  over  1,30c 
miles  to  Calcutta,  the  voyage  only  broken  by 
a  short  stay  at  Madras,  where  a  brief  visit  is 
long  enough,  for  the  heat  and  dust  are  oppres- 
sive. We  see  the  juggernaut  car  lying  in  dis- 
use on  the  roadside  under  a  temporary  cover- 
ing of  a  palm  thatched  roof.  A  most  cumber- 
some vehicle,  the  wheels  of  which  are  so  close- 
ly set  together  that  one  can  imagine  the  poor 
victims  over  whose  body  it  rolls,  could  easil}' 
be  reduced  to  powder.  Government  interferes 
in  its  further  usage,  save  in  territories  not 
easily  managed.  The  official  buildings  are 
European,  but  the  homes  of  the  natives  are 

53 


of  burnt  clay,  with  no  windows — a  small  open 
door  reveals  its  inmates  stretched  out  sleeping, 
almost  devoured  by  flies.  The  filth  of  the  quar- 
ter makes  it  uninviting ;  the  botanical  garden 
is  hardly  worth  the  ride  there.  We  take  the 
only  small  vessel  in  use  to  carry  us  back  to 
the  steamer  awaiting  us  in  this  beauti- 
ful Bay  of  Bengal.  The  governor's  house  is 
lofty  in  appearance,  the  exterior  dingy  from 
dust  and  dirt,  but  we  are  told  the  household 
appointments  are  magnificent,  the  decorations 
partly  in  the  oriental  and  some  of  them  in 
European  style ;  servants  by  the  score,  hun- 
dreds of  coolies  who  do  nothing  but  keep  the 
Punkas  (swinging  fans)  in  motion  in  every 
part  of  the  building  by  day  and  night.  The 
natives  of  Madras  are  quite  dark  in  color,  with 
straight  hair  and  regular  features,  diminutive 
in  stature,  slender  forms,  with  small  hands  and 
feet,  and  have  a  pensive  look  and  manner.  The 
deformity  among  the  beggars  is  revolting,  and 
we  fear  to  alight  from  our  chariot,  lest  we 
may  come  in  contact  with  these  poor,  unfor- 
tunate beings.  We  learn  that  the  wheels  of 
government  move  slowly  in  these  oriental 
countries.  If  an  audience  with  the  governor 
is  desired,  a  book  is  given  you  in  which  the 
name  of  the  solicitor  is  registered.  At  the 
end  of  tw^o  weeks  the  governor  gives  notice 
that  he  wall  give  a  public  breakfast  at  the 
palace,   and   those  who  have  registered  their 

54 


names  will  be  received  and  their  requests  will 
be  heard.  Time  seems  not  to  be  considered 
of  any  import. 

■  The  calm  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  with 
its  southern  breezes,  makes  the  journey  pleas- 
ant, as  the  traveler  seeks  his  extended  chair 
on  deck  of  the  steamer,  protected  from  the 
scorching  sun  by  its  broad  awnings.  On  en- 
trance to  the  Hoogly  River,  a  native  pilot 
comes  aboard — for  here  the  ever-moving  sands 
render  navigation  imcertain  and  perilous — un- 
til the  dangerous  sand  bars  of  tlie  Tames  p.nd 
Mary  rivers  are  passed ;  every  sailor  must  be 
at  his  post  as  the  steamer  wends  its  wav 
through  the  treacherous  channel,  and  each 
passenger  silently  congratulates  himself  Vv'h.cn 
he  is  assured  the  Rubicon  is  past.  The  bot- 
tom of  these  rivers  is  a  vast  quicksand. 
The  vessel  entering  must  await  the  tide.  The 
banks  are  lovv--  and  sandy.  Straw  thatched 
huts,  shaded  by  clusters  of  date  palms,  gave 
a  picturesque  appearance  to  the  shores,  and 
the  tropical  growth  grew  richer  and  more 
dense  as  we  approached  Calcutta.  The  excite- 
ment on  arrival  of  the  steamer  is  intense :  cus- 
tom house  officers  present  themselves :  all 
baggage  is  ordered  from  the  cabins  on  deck, 
even  to  the  smallest  hand-bag;  search  is  made 
for  fire  arms:  strict  laws  regarding  them  are 
enforced,  and  if  you  are  unfortunate  enough 
to  have  one  in  your  possession,  as  was  one  of  our 
party,  you  are  quickly  relieved  of  it,  and  only 
by  paying  as  much  as  the  original  price,  with 
much  red  tape,  are  you  enabled  to  regain  it. 

55 


INDIA. 

India,  in  1892,  had  a  population  of  300,000,- 

000.  The  area  of  the  land  on  which  they  hve  is 
equal  to  the  United  States,  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  of  Colorado.  Much  of  it  is  unculti- 
vated; other  lands  yield  crops  under  irrigation. 
The  soil  in  places  has  become  exhausted  by  use 
without  manure.  Between  monsoons  (that  is, 
periods  of  no  rainfall),  these  regions  cease  to 
produce  and  there  is  a  scarcity. 

Regions  cultivated  by  irrigation  are  enhanced 
in  value,  for  the  products  bring  better  prices, 
but  when  rivers  and  tanks  dry  up  from  which 
water  for  irrigation  is  drawn,  then  scarcity  be- 
comes a  famine,  where  the  rain  has  failed. 
There  are  two  annual  crops  in  India ;  the  former 
inferior  grade  is  used  for  home  consumption,  the 
other  for  export.  Of  the  army,  seventy  thousand 
strong,  forty  per  cent  are  incapacitated  by  dis- 
eases. Civil  servants  are  superannuated  at  fifty- 
five  years  of  age  and  are  sent  home  on  a  pension, 
seldom  enjoying  life  longer  than  two  years  after- 
ward. 

Seven  per  cent  native  males  read  and  v^rrite; 
only  one  per  cent  native  females  can  read  or 
write.  The  different  castes  will  not  intermarry 
and  will  not  touch  each  other's  food. 

57 


Calcutta  is  a  city  of  500,000  inhabitants, 
of  these,  14,000  are  Europeans. 

The  streets  of  the  English  concession  are 
broad  and  well  laid  out.  Fine  hotel  buildings, 
banks  and  storehouses  line  the  main  thorough- 
fare. The  hotels  have  broad  verandas  extend- 
ing from  the  second  f^oor,  over  the  sidewalk,  af- 
fording a  cool  resting  place  for  the  guests,  and 
would  be  most  acceptable  were  it  not  for  the  myri- 
ads of  insects  that  cover  you.  The  protection  these 
porches  afford  at  night  to  the  natives  who,  wrap- 
ped in  their  cotton  blankets,  lie  closely  huddled  to- 
gether along  the  sidewalk,  while  scarcely  leaving 
room  enough  for  a  pathway  for  the  pedestrian 
serve  to  exempt  them  (the  natives)  from  the 
dews  of  the  night.  The  palace  of  the  viceroy, 
centrally  located,  is  -surrounded  by  beautiful 
grounds,  with  magnificent  shade  trees.  It  is  built 
upon  the  grand  esplanade,  three  miles  in  length, 
and  skirts  the  water's  edge.  From  the  hours  of 
5:00  till  8:00  p.  m.  this  grand  avenue  presents 
a  lively  appearance,  for  all  the  elite  of  Calcut- 
ta seems  gathered  there.  Handsome  victorias 
drawn  by  beautiful  horses,  coachmen  and  foot- 
men, with  their  bright  turbans  and  oriental 
dress,  lends  enchantment  to  the  view  and  re- 
minded one  of  the  display  Aladdin  made  when 
he  went  to  claim  his  bride.  In  the  Garden  of 
Eden,  near  by,  a  band  of  forty  native  mu- 
sicians, well  trained,  discourse  sweet  music — 
the  latest  European  airs.  During  the  perform- 
ances  all   vehicles  must  remain  in   one   posi- 

58 


tion.  thus  affording  the  scores  of  flower  ven- 
ders opportunity  to  move  noiselessly  round- 
about the  carriages,  offering  the  beautiful  or- 
chids, camellias  and  roses,  for  a  small  pittance, 
to  the  occupants.  To  say  nothing  of  toy 
monkeys,  which  one  cannot  resist  buying. 
The  European  residence  quarters  lie  along  this 
beautiful,  sun-baked  road.  The  houses  are 
large  and  well  built,  with  the  luxuriant  sur- 
roundings of  tropical  growth  that  almost  hide 
the  homes  from  view.  On  every  veranda  is 
the  tea  table,  with  its  urn  or  samovar ;  all  Eng- 
lish observe  the  hour  of  4:00  o'clock  to  serve 
the  necessary  stimulant  at  home  and  abroad. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the 
Hoogly  River,  gathered  into  large  reservoirs, 
and  filtered.  The  Esplanade  is  sprinkled  by 
the  native  coolie,  who,  from  his  well-filled 
goatskin,  moves  gracefully  in  a  surpentine 
fashion  over  its  well  rolled  surface;  while  the 
streets  in  the  business  portion  are  watered 
from  carts  managed  by  women.  A  visit  to  the 
crematory  at  the  early  dawn, — the  hour  set 
apart  for  burning  their  dead — is  interesting, 
but  horrible,  to  witness.  A  building  of  100 
feet  is  located  upon  the  bank  of  the  river.  At 
intervals  of  ten  feet  on  its  earthen  floor  are 
trenches,  dug  the  length  of  a  body;  they  do 
not  exceed  two  feet  in  depth,  if  that.  In  this 
excavation  is  placed  some  clean  straw  and 
sandal  wood  with  myrrh  and  sweet  perfumes. 
Upon    this    is    laid,    first    crosswise    and    then 

59 


lengthwise,  sticks  of  cordwood,  and  a  fresh 
bed  of  straw,  upon  which  the  body  is  laid.  The 
body  of  an  aged  woman  was  brought  in  for 
cremation  while  we  stood  there.  It  was 
wrapped  in  white  cheese  cloth  and  rested  on 
the  bed  upon  which  she  died,  which  is  their 
custom  to  burn.  It  is  the  length  of  the  body, 
made  of  rope  interlaced ;  at  each  end  are  two 
small  wooden  legs  which  support  the  wooden 
sides  and  are,  in  height,  like  the  old-fashioned 
trundle  bed.  The  winding  sheet  was  removed, 
the  body  anointed  with  oil  and  rubbed  with 
saffron  powder.  The  face,  which  was  most  ema- 
ciated and  betrayed  great  suffering,  was  complete- 
ly besmeared  with  this  mixture.  The  body  was 
then  placed  face  downwards  on  the  pile.  Being 
somewhat  longer  than  the  bed  prepared  for 
it,  the  limb  from  the  knee  was  bent  towards 
the  body.  The  cracking  of  the  dry  bones  was 
most  grewsome.  The  body  had  a  fresh  wrap 
of  cheese  cloth  thrown  over  it,  the  face  hav- 
ing her  caste  designated  by  lines  of  ashes  on 
her  forehead,  made  by  a  priest,  and  sticks 
of  cordwood  were  placed  crosswise  and  then 
lengthwise  so  close  together  that  the  entire 
body  was  concealed.  A  pitcher  of  water  from 
the  sacred  Hoogly  River,  nearby,  was  brought 
and  thrown  over  the  pile.  Then  the  nearest 
relative  of  the  deceased  ran  violently  around 
the  body  seven  times,  crying  in  a  loud  voice 
to  the  gods  that  another  soul  was  awaiting  re- 
incarnation,  while   a  wild-eyed,   maniacal-look- 

60 


ing  priest  took  up  a  huge  bunch  of  straw  and 
made  the  circuit  seven  times,  giving  vent  to 
the  most  uncanny  wail,  when  the  son  or  hus- 
band of  the  dead  touched  the  burning  torch 
to  the  straw  underneath ;  soon  all  was  ablaze. 
The  mourners,  a  few  women,  withdrew,  and 
a  man,  whose  office  it  is,  stood  near  by,  and  as 
the  arms  or  legs  or  pieces  of  burning  wood 
fell,  would  replace  them  with  a  pitch  fork. 
Scores  of  bodies  were  brought  in  that  morning, 
but  seeing  two  cremations  was  all  we  needed 
to  make  an  indelible  impression  not  easily 
eradicated.  It  requires  about  two  hours  to  re- 
duce the  body  to  ashes,  or  a  granulated  substance, 
when  it  is  g^athered  and  thrown  into  the  holy 
river,  and  the  excavation  is  made  clean  for  an- 
other body. 

The  Ghats  or  sacred  steps  leading  down  to 
the  waters  of  the  Hoogly  are  in  the  same  vi- 
cinity. Throngs  of  bathing  pilgrims,  of  both 
sexes,  were  gathered  for  their  morning  ablu- 
tions. After  wading  out  nearly  waist  deep, 
they  would  place  their  hands  reverently  to- 
gether, and  apparently  after  a  prayer  with 
great  earnestness,  dip  themselves  three  times 
into  the  water,  and  those  who  had  flowers  (the 
marigold  seemed  the  favorite),  as  they  prayed 
would  cast  them  upon  the  waters  one  by  one, 
then  scour  their  feet,  rinse  their  mouth  and 
wash  their  garment,  filling  a  brass  vessel  which 
hung  to  their  side  with  the  holy  water,  and  pro- 
ceed to  the  well  situated  under  a  Boho  tree  at 

6i 


the  head  of  a  Ghat,  when  they  would  sprinkle 
the  diminutive  gods  that  were  placed  there. 
Priests  stood  in  readiness  with  paint  and 
ashes  and  made  upon  their  foreheads  the 
mark  of  their  caste,  for  which  they  re- 
ceived a  compensation.  At. a  time  during  the 
eclipse  of  the  moon,  100,000  pilgrims  often  find 
their  way  to  this  holy  water.  It  seems  as  if  half 
their  lives  are  spent  in  making  these  pilgrim- 
ages in  these  eastern  countries,  and  if  they  die 
far  from  the  holy  stream"  they  are  cremated 
and  their  ashes  sent  to  some  priest,  whose  of- 
fice is  to  make  the  consecration  before  sprink- 
ling them  on  the  sacred  rivers. 

We  turn  from  this  scene,  not  wishing  to  ob- 
literate the  memory,  but  to  forget  for  awhile 
in  other  and  perhaps  no  less  disgusting  scenes 
in  the  native  quarters.  We  are  warned  to 
make  our  visits  few,  for  contagious  diseases 
lur^c  in  these  narrow  streets  and  among  these 
filthy  people. 

We  enter  narrow  lanes,  in  these  quar- 
ters, flanked  on  either  side  bv  tumbled-down 
houses.  Wc  are  in  pursuit  of  pearls.  Strange 
surroundings  for  such  beautiful  gems.  We 
are  led  into  a  narrow  hall  and  up  a  long 
flight  of  steps  of  stone,  so  worn  by  the  tread 
of  time  that  we  could  scarcely  keep  our  foot- 
hold. We  reach  a  chamber  fronting  on  a  court. 
The  floors  are  covered  with  padded  matting 
over  which  were  sheets  spread.  Kneeling,  or 
rather  squatting  on  these  were  natives  busily 

62 


employed  sorting  pearls.  Before  each  were 
piles  of  different  sizes.  The  wonderful  dex- 
terity displayed  by  these  coolies  in  separating 
the  large,  medium  and  smaller  seed  pearls  from 
each  other  in  parcels,  by  or  through  the  sense 
of  touch  of  the  index  finger,  seemed  to  convey 
to  their  minds  weight  and  size. 

A  table  or  counter  was  in  one  end  of  this 
room,  behind  which  were  seated  dignified  pa- 
triarchal looking  dealers,  and  evidently  owners 
of  the  establishment.     We    were  shown    dia- 
monds of  such  weight  and  brilliancy  that  fair- 
ly bewildered  us  and  dazzled    our    eyes.     Em- 
eralds,  sapphires,  and  pearls    of    different    col- 
ors   (black,    pink    and    white),    the    former    of 
such  size  that  we  almost    doubted    their    gen- 
uineness.     Evidently  we  were    in    a    wholesale 
department,  for  while  there,  there  came  in  for- 
eign buyers    collecting    many  of  these  precious 
stones.     Prices  were  fixed.     The  dealers  were 
in  touch  with  the  world's  market,  and  values 
ruled  accordingly;  there  seemed  no  chance  to 
barter.    Our  address  is  taken  when  we  decline 
to  purchase,  which  means  that  we  will  be  fol- 
lowed to  the  hotel  by  a  native  who  will  there 
unfold  the  wonders  of  India's  product  again 
to  us — specimens     even  more  tempting    than 
those  shown  in  the  shops.     Our  lack  of  confi- 
dence in  ourselves  as  experts  and  a  growing 
distrust  of  the  dealer  makes  a  breach  between 
buyer  and  seller.    In  these  places  where  gems 
are  kept  the  stock  ofttimes  seems  meager,  and 

63 


we  manifest  our  disappointment,  but  are  at 
once  assured  that  their  supply  is  large,  but  at 
the  present  time  the  rarest  and  most  costly 
have  been  sent  to  some  Maha  Rajah  who 
makes  regal  purchases,  and  those  he  declines, 
perhaps  from  his  sufficiency,  are  returned  for 
sale  to  those  whose  love  for  gems  is  weighed  in 
a  balance  with  their  purse. 

An  English  lady  artist  Vv'ho  was  solicited 
to  paint  the  portrait  of  one  of  these  Rajahs  in 
his  own  palace,  and  to  abide  in  the  premises 
during  her  time  of  labor,  told  me  her  powers 
of  description  failed  her  in  the  attempt  to  por- 
tray to  others  what  the  coffers  of  these  rulers 
of  provinces  contained,  and  with  which  they 
adorned  themselves  on  slate  occasions,  and 
to  convey  to  canvas  their  beauties,  would  have 
been  the  work  of  the  Hand  that  created  them. 

Calcutta,  cit}^  of  palaces,  has  a  number  of 
theaters,  one  of  which  we  attended.  The 
evening  was  warm ;  the  audience  quite  large. 
In  the  gallery  sat  parties  in  groups ;  over  each 
stood  stalwart  coolies,  in  whose  hands  were 
held  a  long-handled  palm-leaf  fan.  Not  for 
one  moment  did  they  falter,  but  with  an  un- 
erring movement,  gracefully  and  uninterrupt- 
edly handled  this  cumbersome  article,  which 
must  have  had  a  soothing  effect.  The  play 
was  not  Vv^cll  supported ;  now  and  then  was 
pleasure  or  displeasure  manifested  by  the  audi- 
ence in  a  loud  voice  speaking,  we  were  told. 
direct  to  the  actors.     After  the  play  was  over 

64 


I  by  the  way.  it  was  long  drawn  out)  the  foyer 
rapidly  filled  and  great  hilarity  prevailed. 
Full  dress,  now  in  evidence  among  the  ladies, 
and  gentlemen  with  their  tall  silk  hats  and 
boutonierres  looked  most  like  English  swells, 
while  those  in  Oriental  dress  were  not  eclipsed 
in  brilliant  coloring. 

The  insect  life  in  Calcutta  was  most  annoy- 
ing. Before  going  to  the  theatre  I  had  left  a 
small  flicker  from  the  gas  jet  in  my  room  and 
the  windows  open.  What  was  my^  dismay  on 
returning  to  find  the  originally  whitewashed 
walls  of  my  apartment  of  a  dull  grey  appear- 
ance. I  doubted  if  my  steamer  trunk  had  not 
been  transferred  in  my^  absence  to  a  more 
sombre  looking  chamber,  but  on  my  appeal  to 
Brahma,  my  servant,  who  lay  at  my  door,  he 
assured  me  that  it  was  innumerable  shad  flies 
(as  we  would  call  them)  which  had  been 
caught  by  the  glare  and  had  lined  walls  and 
ceilings  and  covered  my  bed  spread.  Dust 
pans  and  brushes  were  in  requisition,  coun- 
terpane shaken,  and  lace  mosquito  netting 
drawn  down  and  tucked  in  before  I  felt  like 
retiring  for  the  night.  To  attempt  to  read  by 
an  overhanging  light  was  simply  impossible, 
for  the  print  of  paper  or  book  would  be  com- 
pletely obscured  by  these  pestiferous  crea- 
tures, and  when  we  sought  an  outside  veranda 
that  we  might,  in  the  darkness,  at  least,  carry 
on  a  conversation,  they  would  fly  down  one's 

65 


throat,  when  we  opened  our  mouths.  Imagine 
what  a  sacrifice  this  was  to  be  compelled  to  be 
dumb,  when  we  had  so  much  to  say. 

In  traveling  through  India  a  body  servant 
is  indispensable.  He  lies  at  the  door  of  your 
sleeping  apartment,  waits  upon  you  at  the 
table,  buys  your  ticket,  cares  for  your  baggage 
and  divers  other  attentions  are  rendered  by  the 
patient  but  most  indolent  Mohammedan.  We 
are  advised  not  to  employ  a  Hindoo  servant, 
as  they  refuse  to  serve  flesh  or  fowl  to  you  at 
the  table;  according  to  their  religious  belief, 
it  would  be  pollution. 

At  9:15  p.  m.,  Nov.  18,  1895.  we  find  our- 
selves in  a  most  comfortable  compartment  car, 
with  shower  bath  and  other  conveniences. 
Alongside,  but  not  connected  in  a  way  that 
we  could  speak  to  them  only  by  calling  from 
the  car  window  or  door,  was  the  apartment 
designated  for  servants.  They  lie  down  at 
night  on  the  floor  with  an  extra  cotton  wrap, 
which  is  used  for  the  purpose,  and  I  fancy 
they  use  their  turban  for  their  pillow.  To  our 
party  of  four  we  were  entitled  to  an  entire 
compartment,  and  no  intrusion  can  be  made 
en  route,  on  our  privacy.  On  either  side  of 
the  car  are  long,  cushioned  seats,  well  uphols- 
tered and  covered  with  dark  green  leather ; 
over  these  are  suspended  corresponding  ones 
which,  if  not  in  use,  are  thrown  to  the  ceiling, 
where  they  are  made  secure.  At  the  one  end 
is  a  shorter  seat  (width  of  the  car)  and  at  the 

66 


opposite  side  a  door  leads  into  a  toilet  room. 
The  traveler  provides  his  own  bedding,  which 
consists  of  pillows  or  cushions,  and  steamer 
blankets  or  shawls.  The  nights  are  cold,  bul 
the  heat  through  the  day,  were  we  not  in  mo- 
tion, would  be  insupportable,  together  with  the 
dust  that  arises  along  the  road,  for  lack  of 
rain,  adds  nothing  to  our  comfort.  Our  coolies, 
if  called  upon  to  roll  up  our  bedding,  whether 
from  lack  of  inclination  or  from  physical  weak- 
ness we  know  not,  would  look  morose,  or  call 
in,  if  at  a  station,  additional  help  to  share  in 
the  labor,  and  never  fail  at  the  end  of  the  day 
to  ask  for  compensation  for  the  annas  expend- 
ed on  their  co-workers. 

I  could  better  appreciate  the  statement  made 
by  an  English  missionary  from  the  Isle  of 
Wight  that  he  kept  sixteen  servants  in  his  own 
household  (and  he  was  a  bachelor)  ;  that  no 
one  coolie  would  perform  what  -he  himself 
considered  to  be  the  work  of  two  men.  I  must 
confess  to  their  indolence,  but  it  appeared  to 
me  a  trifle  extravagant  for  a  dependant  upon 
the  missionary  board.  He  was  a  most  agree- 
able gentleman,  however,  and  I  am  under 
many  obligations  for  a  prescription  which  en- 
abled me,  when  I  had  it  filled,  to  accomplish 
my  sight  seeing,  and  travel  in  India,  our  own 
remedies  having  no  effect  in  that  country 
or  climate.  In  returning  to  the  question 
of  manual  labor:  the  working  of  the  "pun- 
kas,"  or    swinging    fans,  alone    required    many 

67 


men,  to  keep  the  air  in  motion  for  the  com- 
fort of  people.  In  the  hotel  dining  room  these 
fans  were  hung  on  wires,  stretched  at  intervals 
the  entire  length  and  breadth  of  the  salon,  say 
five  feet  apart.  The  material  used  was  a  white 
or  drab  drilling  (cotton  cloth)  made  into 
huge  box  plaits;  wire  or  rope  v/as  attached 
to  and  drawn  above  these  punkas  to  holes  in 
the  wall,  which  separated  the  dining  room 
from  a  corridor.  There  sat,  or  rather  squatted, 
a  dozen,  more  or  less,  coolies  with  these 
wires  either  in  their  hands  or  fastened  to  their 
feet,  and  would  sway  to  and  fro,  causing  a  vi- 
bration in  the  air  that  was  most  acceptable  in 
these  warm  climates,  while  eating. 

The  native  coolies  are  neither  scrupulously 
truthful  nor  honest,  indolent  to  a  degree,  rather 
sullen,  but  to  all  appearances  submissive.  They 
are  fond  of  stimulants,  more  especially  opium 
and  tobacco.  In  traveling  you  are  under  the  sur- 
veillance of  your  servants,  fearing  you  may  make 
some  purchase  without  their  knowledge,  caus- 
ing them  to  lose  a  commission  to  which  they 
feel  themselves  entitled  for  having  directed  your 
steps  or  attenion  to  the  shop  of  the  dealer. 

They  receive  their  stipulated  wages,  traveling 
expenses  defrayed  by  the  employer,  but  added 
to  this  is  a  constant  appeal  to  your  sympathies ; 
for  instance :  'T  am  just  in  receipt  of  news  from 
home.  My  son  is  lying  (great  stress  on  son) 
very  ill.  My  mother  has  no  monev  to  employ 
a  doctor.     What  am  I  to  do  if  the  good  ladv 

68 


will  not  assist  me  to  send  some  help  to  her?" 
It  has  been  proven  that  these  same  applicants 
have  no  family  and  have  recklessly  spent  their 
allowance  in  riotous  living  on  their  journey. 
We  have  to  provide  a  winter  outfit  if  it  is  cold, 
such  as  a  night  blanket  of  cotton  cloth,  and  some 
clothing — for  during  the  heated  term  clothing  is 
unnecessary — and  pay  for  the  return  trip  to 
their  home,  v;ithout  v/e  find  travelers  going  the 
same  route  we  have  just  taken,  and  if  the  ser- 
vants have  merited  a  recommendation  we  eive 
it  to  them  and  are  thus  relieved  ourselves.  We 
found  one  of  the  tricks  of  the  trade  was  for 
the  coolie  to  secure  a  returning  party — we 
will  say,  to  make  ourselves  lucid,  from  Bom- 
bay to  Calcutta — but  to  keep  the  matter  secret 
from  us  so  that  we  might  give  them  a  return 
ticket,  which  they  could  easily  sell.  In  spite  of 
our  experience  there  must  be  some  good  and 
true  natives,  for  her  majesty,  Queen  Victoria, 
has  for  her  closest  body-servant  the  Indian, 
chosen  for  his  submission  and  faithfulness. 

Our  journey  to  Benares  was  at  night,  because 
of  the  freedom  from  dust  and  heat.  The  early 
dawn  found  us  awake  and  peeping  out  of  shut- 
ters for  a  sight  of  the  country  through  which 
we  were  passing.  The  stations  are  well  built, 
and  crowds  of  natives,  men  and  women,  flock 
there  on  arrival  of  trains,  ofifering  for  sale  flow- 
ers, sweets,  fruits,  the  cocoanut,  lemons  and  a 
sort  of  banana.  At  your  desire  the  cocoanut, 
nicely  scraped  and  clean,  will  be  broken  so  that 

69 


you  may  quaff  at  your  leisure  what  must  be  to 
them  a  dehcious  cool  drink — a  little  goes  a 
good  way  with  me.  It  is  well  to  be  supplied 
with  plenty  of  their  small  coin,  for  they  are  so 
slow  in  making  the  necessary  change  that  the 
car  has  proceeded  on  its  way  before  they  have 
accomplished  the  task. 

The  experience  of  one  of  our  party  was  a  les- 
son to  us.  A  gentleman  from  California,  desir- 
ing some  nuts  or  fruit,  gave  in  exchange  a 
pound  in  gold— all  he  had  at  hand.  The  train 
started,  but  all  in  vain  were  his  protestations  ; 
the  speed  increased,  and  what  was  most  provok- 
ing, was  to  see  at  a  safe  distance  the  naked  boy 
running,  apparently,  trying  to  overtake  us,  but 
laughing  immoderately  at  the  joke — he  will  get 
his  reward.  This  reminds  me  of  a  story  to  the 
point.  On  one  occasion  in  my  own  native  land 
I  had  an  appeal  made  for  help  for  a  poor  fam- 
ily. Having  often  allowed  my  heart  to  run  away 
with  my  head,  I  determined  this  time  to  be 
forearmed.  So  I  visited  the  house  of  distress, 
found  things  clean  and  tidy,  but  cupboards  empty 
and  a  man  in  bed,  supposed  to  be  the  husband 
of  the  woman  who  had  sought  my  aid.  It  was 
with  apparent  difificulty  he  spoke  to  me.  I  hur- 
ried to  order  from  the  adjacent  market  a  full 
supply  for  several  days.  After  exhausting  my 
strength  I  felt  myself  unable  to  go  farther  into 
the  city  where  I  could  replace  an  undershirt  his 
loving  spouse  said  had  been  stolen  from  the 
clothes  Hne,  and  his  need  of  a  change  was  moat 

70 


pressing.  On  my  way  home,  tired  and  footsore, 
I  resolved  to  call  on  a  neighboring  friend 
where  gentlemen  were  more  plentiful  than  with 
me,  and  ask  for  cast-oflf  underwear.  On  inter- 
rogating me,  my  friend  laughed  to  see  my  dis- 
tress, and  informed  me  it  was  an  old  trick  of 
the  woman.  The  sick  man  was  a  perfectly 
strong,  well  man — and  rarely  was  the  same  man 
on  exhibition.  Alack,  for  me!  I  had,  during 
the  day,  met  our  pastor,  Mr.  Monroe  Gibson, 
and  begged  that  he  might  call  at  his  earliest 
convenience,  lest  the  dying  man  might  go  out 
of  the  world  without  a  prayer,  for  his  soul's 
salvation.  In  the  twilight  I  retraced  my  steps 
to  tell  Mr.  Gibson  how,  in  common  parlance, 
"I  had  been  sold."  After  a  sympathetic  look, 
he  in  his  Scotch  brogue  said :  "Well,  never 
mind ;  you  remember  the  man  who  put  a  crown 
in  the  contribution  box  where  he  intended  to 
put  a  penny  and,  on  retiring  from  the  church, 
went  to  the  man  who  had  charge  of  the  alms 
box  and  told  him  that  he  had  made  a  mistake. 
The  pastor  did  not  ofifer  to  refund  it,  but  simply 
said :  'Brother,  )^ou  will  have  your  reward  in 
heaven'  "  (for  a  good  intention,  not  for  the 
amount  given). 

Low  mud  houses,  hid  among  the  palms,  af- 
forded shelter  from  the  sun  during  the  noon- 
day hours.  Men,  women  and  children,  the  for- 
mer and  latter  nude  or  scantily  clad,  grouped 
together  along  the  road;  the  faces  of  the  women 
were  partially  veiled.    The  scene  is  rather  pic- 

71 


turesque,  with  the  chatter  of  the  monkeys  and 
the  singing  of  bright  plumaged  birds.  They 
lend  some  animation  to  the  otherwise  barren 
prospects.  We  learn  there  are  common  schools 
throughout  the  country  for  the  male  popula- 
tion, but  women  are  uneducated  except  in  re- 
ligious art  and  duties.  Government  no  longer 
tolerates  the  wife  sacrificing  her  body  on  the 
pyre  of  her  dead  husband ;  but  death  is  prefer- 
able to  a  life  of  widowhood,  owing  to  the  self- 
denial  forced  upon  her  by  his  family. 

The  chmate  of  India  is  conducive  to  economy 
in  clothing,  as  little,  if  any,  is  needed.  The  diet 
of  the  native  would  be  starvation  in  a  cooler 
clime.  A  mud  hut  gives  the  needed  shelter, 
and  the  ofifal  of  the  animals,  dried  in  cakes  on 
the  sides  of  their  hovels,  give  them  sufificient 
fuel  to  boil  their  rice  and  other  vegetables.  The 
masses  have  never  known  anything  but  oppres- 
sion ;  they  are  apparently  kind  to  man  and  beast. 
We  never  heard  any  wrangUng.  nor  witnessed 
any  street  brawls.  A  native  will  step  aside, 
rather  than  tread  upon  an  ant,  which  is  the  pest 
of  the  country. 

Benares  is  sixteen  hours'  ride  from  Calcutta, 
a  distance  of  450  miles.  We  find  there  Clark's 
Hotel  patronized  by  tourists,  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  city,  a  refreshing  looking  spot  and  most  rest- 
ful bungalow.  We  rested  under  the  cool  shades 
of  the  palm  fees  until  a  favorable  hour,  and  then 
drove  to  the  "Holiest  of  Holy  Cities,"  situated  on 
the  Ganges  river,  once  alike  holy  to  the  Buddhist 


72 


as  it  is  now  to  the  Hindoo.  The  sacred,  the 
three-fold  divine  river,  runs,  according  to  their 
religion,  through  Heaven,  Hell  and  Earth.  To 
die  on  its  banks,  and  to  have  one's  ashes  thrown 
upon  its  bosom,  is  a  through  ticket  to  Paradise. 
Troops  of  men,  women  and  children,  tired  and 
footsore,  are  met  wending  their  way  to  the 
shrines.  To  bathe  in  the  Ganges  is  to  wash  away 
all  sins. 

Crowds  throng  the  narrow,  dusty  streets; 
the  women  rather  gracefully  attired,  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  silver  ornaments,  ear-rings,  nose- 
rings, bracelets  and  bangles;  the  men  nude  or 
with  a  scant  loin  cloth.  The  houses  are  built 
of  clay,  sun  baked,  some  of  brick,  stuccoed, 
ancient  as  time  in  appearance,  unfit  for  habita- 
tion, but  are  grouped  among  the  shops  and  tem- 
ples in  close  proximity.  The  monkey  temple 
is  especially  interesting,  surrounded  by  well 
wooded  grounds  where  the  monkeys  frisk  and 
frolic  all  day  long  and  are  fed  by  an  admiring 
crowd,  who  regard  them  as  sacred  animals. 
These  temples  are  reached  by  a  long  flight  of 
stone  steps,which  I  found  myself  slowly  climbing, 
when,  without  warning,  I  was  rudely  pushed  to 
one  side.  On  looking  around,  I  saw  a  diminu- 
tive grey  cow  ascending  the  steps  with  great  dig- 
nity, and  it  was  the  contact  with  this  animal 
that  had  so  shocked  me.  I  quickened  my  p-ait, 
and  in  my  attempt  to  get  out  of  the  way.  I 
rushed  into  the  first  opening  that  met  my  view, 
which  proved  to  be  the  entrance  to  the  temple 

73 


grounds,  set  apart  for  these  sacred  cows.  The 
animal  was  close  beside  me  and  I  vaulted  like  a 
school  boy  to  a  neighboring-  ledge  of  rock.  I 
became  agile  from  fear,  but  the  fright  occa- 
sioned by  the  cow's  triumphant  entry  was  noth- 
ing to  the  brandishing  of  arms  of  the  natives 
in  charge.  I  was  brushed  aside  like  a  fly  in  the 
sacred  enclosure,  where  no  heretic  was  allowed 
to  enter.  Truly,  I  felt  far  from  home !  Garlands 
of  marigolds,  kept  fresh  at  wells  of  water, 
are  sold  to  devotees  to  lay  at  the  feet  or  to 
encircle  the  gods  of  brass  and  stone  that  are 
seen  in  every  direction.  We  are  not  permitted 
to  enter  a  Hindoo  temple,  but  get  a  glimpse 
in  passing  of  their  tinselled  gaudiness.  This 
seething  caldron,  where  beasts  usurp  the  rights 
of  men,  women  and  children,  who  are  all  bow- 
ing down  to  objects  of  wood  and  stone,  is  a 
sight  one  may  long  for — but  once  in  a  lifetime 
is  quite  satisfactory,  and  we  gladly  withdraw. 

The  early  dawn  of  day  finds  us  driving 
through  the  already  crowded  streets  on  our  way 
to  the  "Ghats."  Boats  lie  in  readiness  to  con- 
vey us  along  the  sacred  shore  of  the  Ganges, 
for  but  one  bank  is  consecrated ;  the  opposite 
shore  seems  a  dreary  waste.  For  miles  homes 
and  sacred  structures  are  reared;  here  and 
there  massive  ruins  attest  the  powers  of  the 
Ganges'  floods  on  solid  masonry.  From  a  dis- 
tance it  is  picturesque,  but  on  close  inspection 
has  a  most  dilapidated  appearance.  The  well- 
built  stone  steps,  or  Ghats,  are  crowded  at  this 

74 


early  hour  with  pilgrims  and  devotees  wrapped 
in  their  white  robes.  They  wade  out  into  the 
holy  stream,  bowing-  and  drinking  double  hands 
full  of  water,  so  nauseous  in  appearance,  and 
taking  off  from  themselves  garlands  of  mari- 
golds, throw  them  on  the  surface  of  the  water, 
then  wash  their  mouths,  and  return  on  shore 
for  certain  ministrations  that  the  priests  stood 
in  readiness  to  perform  for  them,  v/hich  seemed 
to  complete  the  purification.  Their  caste  was 
manifested  by  certain  marks  made  with  ashes 
or  paint  on  their  foreheads. 

From  the  upper  deck  of  our  small  steamer  we 
overlook  the  ceremony  of  cremation,  not  un- 
like that  we  had  seen  in  Calcutta.  The  bodies 
were  wrapped  in  crimson-colored  cheese  cloth 
and  laid  upon  a  rude  bier  composed  of  two 
poles,  laced  together  with  rope;  so  near  the 
water  were  these  bodies  placed  that  the  feet 
were  completely  covered.  We  were  told  that 
very  sick  persons  were  brought  when  dying,  and 
the  immersion  in  the  holy  water  would  bring 
about  a  reaction,  and  restoration  to  health  would 
ensue.  No  mourners  were  around  the  body,  and 
those  who  ministered  at  the  cremation  were 
ostracized  socially,  being  considered  unclean 
for  a  certain  length  of  time,  and  are  of  the 
lowest  caste.  The  sheik  who  has  charge  of  the 
burning  has  the  ashes  thoroughly  sifted  to  se- 
cure any  jewelry  that  may  have  been  on  the 
body,  and  as  theft  is  often  committed  by  the 
men  employed  to  rake  up  the  ashes,  great  dis- 
putes arise  in  consequence. 

75 


The  colossal  form  in  stone  of  the  "God 
Beem"  lies  prostrate  on  the  ground,  and  women 
in  peril  of  childbirth  come  in  throngfs  on  moon- 
light nights  to  pray  for  the  safe  deliverance  of 
a  son;  girls  are  at  a  discount  in  the  Orient.  We 
saw  a  man  stretched  upon  a  bed  of  spikes,  pay- 
ing penance  for  some  sin  committed,  or  to  find 
favor  by  self-abnegation  with  his  god.  When 
we  appeared,  incredulous  as  to  the  actual  facts, 
the  man  arose  to  show  the  pierced  flesh  and  the 
sharp  points  of  which  his  bed  was  composed. 
The  upholding  of  an  arm  until  the  flesh  withers, 
and  the  limb  stiffens,  is  most  revolting.  These 
devotees  allow  their  finger  nails  to  become,  so 
extended  that  they  look  like  claws,  or  more  like 
the  roots  of  a  tree  seen  in  Ceylon,  which  lie  on 
top  of  the  ground.  We  are  privileged  to  visit 
the  palace  of  the  Maha  Rajah,  which  is  quite  a 
distance  from  Benares  and  on  the  unconse- 
crated  shore  of  the  Ganges.  Numbers  of  naked 
coolies  run  along  the  shore,  pulling  with  all 
their  strength  on  the  ropes  attached  to  the 
boat.  When  we  arrive  opposite  the  palace  we 
are  transferred  to  a  raft,  which  is  rowed  and 
pushed  to  the  landing.  The  gloomy  structure 
rises  before  us,  and  the  approach  to  it  is  rather 
intricate,  through  courtyards  much  littered  up 
with  debris.  As  we  enter  with  our  guide,  we 
are  informed  of  the  Rajah's  absence  from 
home,  but  we  are  permitted  to  wander  through 
rooms  most  inhospitable  in  appearance.  A  few 
pictures   adorn   the   walls    and    some   handsome 

76 


bric-a-brac  is  scattered  here  and  there.  We  are 
told  that  the  Rajah  himself  is  most  hospitable, 
and  much  more  would  have  been  shown  us  had 
he  been  at  home.  The  great  attraction  in  mak- 
ing this  visit  is  to  see  the  hundreds  of  elephants 
and  tigers  he  has  in  his  possession,  but  "the 
shades  of  night  were  falling  fast"  and  we  de- 
clined any  further  delay. 

Our  trip  to  Benares  was  much  more  rapid 
on  returning.  We  floated  down  the  Ganges 
by  moonlight ;  it  was  a  grewsome  scene.  We 
were  gathered  together  on  the  deck  of  our  steam- 
er, while  our  guide,  at  our  feet,  was  beguiling 
the  weary  hours  by  his  weird  tales.  Visions  of 
crocodiles,  awaiting  their  prey,  float  before  our 
eyes ;  lights  from  the  shore  grew  indistinct,  and 
our  little  group  most  abject;  but  the  landing 
place  at  length  was  in  sight,  and  we  had  kept 
our  carriage  awaiting  our  return.  We  were 
driven  through  dark,  narrow  streets  to  the  gar- 
den of  a  temple,  where  lived  the  holy  man  of 
Benares.  We  remained  in  our  vehicle  until  our 
guide  ascertained  whether  we  could  have  an  in- 
terview. It  was  9:00  p.  m.,  but  being  American 
tourists,  we  were  admitted.  He  was  a  man  ap- 
parently sanctified  by  his  mode  of  living,  not 
unlike  that  of  Buddha.  He  was  emaciated,  and 
as  we  approached  him,  he  arose  from  his  cot 
not  entirely  nude,  but  a  simple  loin  cloth  was 
his  only  clothing.  A  canopy  was  above  his 
bed,  and  that  was  his  home,  day  and  night.  He 
is    a    profound    Hindoo    scholar,    and    without 

77 


doubt  will  be  canonized  after  death.  His  man- 
ner toward  us  was  most  cordial  and  especially 
towards  the  one  of  our  group  who  hailed  from 
Chicago.  He  spoke  through  an  interpreter,  say- 
ing that  the  governor  of  Chicago  had  called  on 
him  before  the  World's  Fair,  urging  the  holy 
man  to  visit  him  at  the  time  of  the  exhibition, 
but  he  could  not  think  of  ever  leaving  India. 
He  then  sent  for  his  book  of  registration  and 
showed  us  the  name  registered  as  Carter  H. 
Harrison.  We  were  asked  to  write  our  names, 
which  we  did,  and  were  then  olTered  by  an  at- 
tendant fruits  and  given  a  book  containing  his 
own  life  to  date.  He  was  born  in  1833,  rnarried 
at  twelve  years  of  age,  and  was  a  father  at  eight- 
een. Like  Buddha,  he  withdrew  from  all  natural 
ties  and  set  himself  apart  for  a  religious  life. 
When  asked  if  he  did  not  feel  the  cold  night  air 
to  be  injurious,  his  reply  was  in  his  graceful 
gesture  pointing  heavenward,  and  in  his  signal 
language  made  us  understand  that  under  a  watch- 
ful eye  no  harm  could  befall  him. 

The  country  from  Benares  to  Lucknow  is 
but  little  different  from  what  we  have  already 
passed,  though  the  distance  is  190  miles.  Popu- 
lation, 250,000.  ]\Ianufacturers  of  carpets,  rugs, 
gold  lace  and  embroideries  are  found  here,  and 
seemingly  the  natives  are  interested  in  their 
employment,  but  are  poor  and  oppressed.  The 
remains  of  mausoleums  and  palaces  attest  for- 
mer grandeur  before  its  ownership  was  abso- 
lutely in  the  hands  of  its   conquerors.     Hotel 

78 


accommodations  are  poor.  We  drove  to  the 
park  to  "Leeundea  Bagh,"  where  durmg-  the 
mutiny  of  1857  two  thousand  mutineers  were 
killed  within  two  hours — Sir  Cohn  Campbell 
imder  command.  The  residency  was  built  in 
1800  by  Sahondah  Ally  Kahn.  During-  the 
mutiny  it  contained  only  927  Europeans,  who 
were  besieged  by  the  rebels.  Shot  and  shell 
marks  are  to  be  seen  in  the  walls.  The  Fort 
Mueks'  Bhawan,  built  during  the  famine  as  re- 
lief work  at  great  cost,  is  of  much  interest;  also 
a  museum  filled  with  objects  of  curiosity.  Luck- 
now,  famous  in  song,  ran  through  my  mind  as 
we  looked  in  vain  for  a  Lalla  Rookh,  the  imagi- 
nary character  of  the  poet  Moore. 

Cawnpoor,  thirty  miles  further  on,  with  130,- 
000  inhabitants,  presents  large  industries  of 
leather  work,  rice  mills  and  jute  manufactories. 
The  drive  to  the  beautiful  park,  which  now 
crosses  the  battlefield,  is  most  interesting.  The 
stately  monument  of  pure  white  marble,  sur- 
mounted by  a  female  figure,  with  widespread 
wings,  and  in  each  hand  a  palm  of  most  ex- 
quisite workmanship,  combined  v.atli  graceful- 
ness. An  English  officer  stands  near  by  ready 
to  give  you  a  brief  but  graphic  account  of  the' 
mutiny.  The  monument  stands  on  the  spot 
over  the  great  well,  into  which  were  thrown 
alive  700  men,  women  and  children,  who  were 
hurled  into  it  in  one  day  by  the  order  of  Nana 
Sahib.  A  beautiful  memorial  church  not  far 
away  has  been  erected  in  memory  of  the  loved 

79 


and  lost.  We  enter  during  vesper  hours ;  such 
perfect  peace  and  quiet  reigns  in  and  around 
this  sacred  spot,  where  many  Enghsh  men  and 
women  were  gathered  at  the  service.  It  seemed 
so  isolated  to  me  so  far  from  home.  The  drives 
in  the  vicinity  are  fascinating,  yet  the  rice  fields 
were  beginning  to  grow  scarce  and  less  grass 
was  seen.  We  journey  on.  Wheat  fields  ap- 
pear more  frequently;  apparently  no  de- 
markation  between  land  of  different  own- 
ers. Trees  are  scarce,  but  the  excrement 
of  cattle  is  sun  baked  and  used  for  fuel. 
The  homes  of  the  people  are  mud-walled  pens, 
huddled  together,  surrounded  by  walls  of  the 
same  material.  This  grouping  of  homes,  such 
as  they  were,  attracted  our  attention  all  along 
our  journey.  This  is  evidently  for  protection. 
No  isolated  farm  houses,  with  the  comforts  of 
life,  were  in  evidence. 

The  pay  of  the  laborers  who  construct  the 
railroad  is  three  annas  a  day  (2^4  cents)  ;  an 
English-speaking  servant  will  get  34  cents  a 
day  (one  rupee  and  four  annas)  for  food.  We 
do  not  realize  how  thickly  settled  the  country  is 
in  traveling  on  the  railroad,  but  by  and  by  we 
see  the  mud-walled  village  again  with  its  hun- 
dreds of  inhabitants,  who  rush  out  on  the  ap- 
proach of  the  train,  the  women  and  children 
crying  piteously  for  backsheesh.  The  wealth 
and  strength  of  the  past  ages  is  now  seen  in 
their  morgues,  mausoleums  and  palaces,  many 

80 


of  them  wrecks  of  their  former  beauty,  but 
patience  and  long  years  of  toil  are  evident  in 
their  crumbling  walls. 

The  Punjab  country  lies  between  the  five 
great  branches  of  the  Indus  River.  The  men 
here  are  magnificent  specimens  of  physical  de- 
velopment. The  Sikh  soldiers  are  the  hand- 
somest known.  We  see  them  acting  as  police- 
men at  Hongkong,  and  we  stop  to  admire 
their  erect  carriage  and  military  tread.  There 
is  one  defect,  however,  in  the  anatomy  of  the 
men  of  India;  they  have  no  calves  to  their 
legs.  The  Sikh  is  less  servile  than  any  other 
tribe,  hard  fighters,  but  attain  to  more  or  less 
civility  in  their  contact  with  Europeans. 

Our  next  stopping  place  to  Benares  was  Aigra, 
so  full  of  interest ;  namely,  the  Fort ;  the  Pearl 
Mosque,  the  imperial  palace,  built  by  Abkur, 
the  grandfather  of  Shah  Jehan ;  the  palace 
of  wonders ;  its  walls  inlaid  with  agates,  topaz, 
tagula  and  other  more  precious  stones.  The 
rooms  set  apart  for  the  harem  women  are  ex- 
quisitely beautiful.  The  oriental  imagination 
must  have  lost  itself  in  the  construction  and 
adornment  of  this  palace.  The  apartments 
built  for  his  favorite  wife,  with  a  boudoir  and 
marble  baths — the  water  furnished  for  the  lat- 
ter was  delicately  perfumed — and  walls,  mir- 
rored with  small  pieces  of  glass,  looked  like 
the  firmament  in  its  brightness,  but  it  re- 
mained for  Shah  Jehan  to  astonish  the  world 
with  the  mausoleum  built  for  his  (not  the  most 

8i 


correct)  wife.  The  Tag  Mahal,  the  tomb  of  his 
sultana,  Montag  Mahal,  is  the  most  beautiful 
creation  in  marble  in  existence.  We  are  told 
she  was  beautiful ;  her  devotion  to  Shah  Jehan. 
was  proverbial,  and  his  for  her  idolatrous.  Her 
dying  request  was  that  her  husband  should 
never  take  for  himself  another  wife,  and  in  her 
memory  should  build  a  tomb  that  could  have 
no  rival,  and  one  that  all  the  world  would  ad- 
mire. "Tag"  is  a  pet  name  of  endearment; 
"Mahal"  means  great  or  beautiful;  "Montag 
Mahal,"  the  chosen  of  the  palace.  In  the  words 
of  another  I  will  describe  the  Tag  Mahal,  as  I 
know  no  more  fitting  words  to  use.  "Passing 
through  a  majestic  Saracenic  arch,  eighty  feet  in 
height,  supported  by  two  abutments  of  sand 
stone,  on  the  panels  of  which  are  carved  pass- 
ages from  the  Koran,  is  a  long  vista 
of  cypress  trees,  shading  a  marble 
paved  canal,  on  either  side  of  which  are 
beds  of  flowers  and  crystal  fountains.  At  the 
end  of  this  magic  avenue  stands  the  "Tag"  on 
a  terrace ;  at  either  corner  of  this  square  is  an 
edifice  of  sandstone,  with  a  dome  of  the  same 
material.  The  "Tag"  is  built  of  polished  white 
marble,  its  oriental  dome  shaped  like  a  globe, 
tapering  up  into  a  spire  surmounted  by  a  gold- 
en crescent.  The  platform  upon  which  the 
"Tag"  is  placed  is  a  square  of  313  feet  each 
side  and  eighteen  feet  in  heiglit.  From  each 
of  the  corners  rise  four  lesser  domes  of  the 
same  matchless  marble,  forming  graceful  min- 

82 


arets.  By  moonlight  and  by  sunset  we  g^aze 
upon  this  Arabian  night  or  day  dream.  "A 
thing  of  beauty  is  a  joy  forever."  Italian,  Sa- 
rascenic  and  Persian  are  all  suggested  in  its 
architecture,  and  we  are  told  that  Shah  Jehan 
expected  to  build  for  himself  a  tomb  of  black 
polished  marble  within  sight,  but  on  the  other 
side  of  the  River  Jumna,  but  the  depleted  state 
of  the  treasury  caused  alarm  in  the  mind  of 
his  son ;  fearing  he  would  be  impoverished,  he 
made  his  father  a  prisoner  in  the  imperial  pal- 
ace. We  stood  in  the  room  wherein  he  had  lain 
in  his  dying  hours,  and  gazed  out  of  the  win- 
dows, as  he  did,  upon  the  beautiful  vision 
which  was  within  his  sight,  his  last  wish  was 
gratified,  and  his  earthly  vi.«k)n  failed  in  the  view 
he  had  of  Montag's  tomb.  He  looked  out  be- 
yond the  Jumna,  as  the  v;estern  sun's  rays  kissed 
the  pure  white  marble,  reflecting  on  its  polished 
surface — the  reflex  it  may  have  been  of  a 
heavenly  vision,  vouchsafed  only  to  those  who 
pass  the  portals. 

Delhi,  the  next  station  en  route,  notwith- 
standing the  dust  and  heat,  has  its  attractions. 
The  Bungalow  Hotel  is  kept  by  an  English- 
woman who,  with  her  sons,  had  a  number  of 
hostelries  in  India  and  along  the  tourist  line 
of  travel.  This  one  offered  but  few  comforts. 
The  proprietress  assured  me  that  they  would 
soon  build  a  good  hotel,  as  travel  demanded  it. 
She  evidently  had  received  a  telegram  that  we 
were   on   our   way  from   her   son's   place,   at 

83 


whose  table  we  had  sat  at  Aigra.  She  sent 
her  private  conveyance  for  us  to  the  depot, 
and  received  us  herself  with  some  cordiality, 
and  was  much  gratified  to  learn  of  our  pleas- 
ant memories  of  Aigra,  with  its  tombs,  tem- 
ples, and  its  exquisite  embroideries — the  best 
we  saw  in  India — woven  of  the  finest  texture 
and  wrought  upon  with  such  delicacy  that  we 
could  scarce  realize  that  the  dark,  swarthy 
fingers  of  those  poor  native  Indians  could 
work  out  such  marvels.  We  bought  handsome 
table  decorations  in  embroidered  satin  and  be- 
moaned that  we  did  not  get  more,  after  we 
were  too  far  away  to  retrace  our  steps. 

One  of  the  attractions  of  Delhi  is  the  tower 
of  Kutah  Mina,  rising  to  a  height  of  240  feet, 
divided  into  five  stories,  built  of  red,  buff  and 
pink  sandstone.  The  column,  or  tower,  is  of 
fluted  architecture  for  most  of  the  height,  and 
decorated  at  intervals  with  layers  of  white 
marble  slabs.  We  were  told  it  was  built  for  a 
favorite  daughter  of  the  ruling  monarch,  that 
she  might,  from  its  height,  view  the  Holy 
River  Jumna,  which  was  at  a  great  distance 
from  her  home.  According  to  the  tale  told 
us,  this  tower  must  be  ascended  before 
she  broke  her  morning  fast.  Near  by  stands 
the  iron  pillar,  nearly  a  foot  and  a  half 
in  diameter  and  over  forty  feet  high  above  the 
ground.  It  is  a  solid  shaft  of  malleable  iron, 
the  natives  claim  its  foundation  is  laid  in  the 
center  of  the  earth.    To  see  the  tower  and  iron 

84 


pillar  necessitates  a  ride  of  eleven  miles 
through  dust  and  dirt  and  but  little  of  any  in- 
terest along  the  wayside.  We  visited  the 
tomb  of  Johanara,  the  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan, 
who  shared  her  father's  captivity.  Pure  in 
spirit  and  humble  she  chose  a  plain  block  of 
marble  or  alabaster,  to  cover  her  grave, 
screened  by  a  delicately  wrought  white  mar- 
ble.   The  epitaph  inscribed  on  her  tomb  reads: 

"  Place  naught  but  one  green  herb  above  my  head  ; 
This  alone  befits  the  poor  and  lonely  dead." 

Pious  monks  keep  fresh  grass  on  her  tomb ; 
a  slab  at  the  head  of  the  grave  bears  this  in- 
scription in  Arabic:  "God  is  life  and  the  res- 
urrection." The  shops  are  attractive  and  we 
find  and  purchase  some  ivories  and,  if  one 
cares  for  the  likeness  of  Shah  Jehan.  they  will 
be  able  to  purchase  paintings  in  miniature  of 
him  and  his  wife,  done  on  porcelain.  Wheth- 
er or  not  true  to  nature,  we  are  unable  to  judge. 
Beautiful  pink  pearls  are  shown  us.  How  often 
I  have  regretted  not  buying  some  of  them ;  we 
never  found  them  so  perfect  after  leaving  Delhi. 
The  enameled  bracelets  are  shown  in  great  vari- 
ety, and  yet  we  pass  them  by. 

Jeypore  is  a  typical  Indian  city,  twelve  hours 
by  rail  from  Delhi.  The  streets  are  wide  and 
well  watered,  the  houses  of  stucco,  gaudily 
painted  in  hieroglyphic  designs,  are  two  and 
three  stories  high.  In  the  middle  of  the  streets, 
at  intervals  of  two  or  three  squares,  are  stone 

85 


wells,  around  which  rested  diminutive  gods  of 
wood  and  stone.  In  the  early  morning  hours 
the  natives  lay  an  offering  of  flowers  before 
these  idols  and  wash  their  hands  or  faces  in 
the  water  and  go  on  their  wav  rejoicing.  In- 
numerable pigeons,  regarded  as  sacred,  swarm 
in  the  streets,  where  they  are  fed. 

We  spend  Thanksgiving  day  (November, 
1895)  in  Jeypore,  sight-seeing,  our  hearts  long- 
ing for  the  dear  ones  at  home.  In  our  wan- 
derings we  met  a  wedding  party.  The  bride, 
we  are  told,  was  twelve  years  old,  the  groom 
twenty-one.  They  were  seated  in  a  gaudily  dec- 
orated car,  drawn  by  oxen.  A  scarlet  canopy, 
with  India  shawl  draperies,  hung  gracefully 
down  and  almost  concealed  the  little  veiled 
lady;  she  wore  a  scarlet  wrap.  The  groom 
elect,  sat  Turkish  fashion,  wore  a  tall  hat 
and  looked  m.ost  solemn.  We  entered  a 
bazaar,  where  bronze  and  lacquer  were  for 
sale,  together  with  ancient  armor,  kept  by 
one  Mr.  Zoroaster,  a  man  of  distinction. 
While  on  the  second  floor  of  the  build- 
ing, overlooking  a  court-yard,  some  gaily 
dressed  veiled  women  came  in  and  began  to 
beat  their  tomtoms.  3>Ir.  Zoroaster  remarked : 
"It  is  only  on  great  occasions  that  my  sister 
ever  leaves  her  home.  It  is  she  who  is  below, 
accompanied  by  her  women  in  waiting,  and 
have  come  to  bid  my  famil}^  to  the  wedding  of 
her  daughter."  He  told  us  the  bride  and  groom 
were  wealthy,  and  that  her  father  was  to  give 

S6 


a  feast  to  five  thousand  people  on  this,  their 
wedding  day.  He,  Mr.  Zoroaster,  told  us  the 
dress  of  his  sister  for  the  occasion  cost  2,000 
rupees.  It  was  crimson,  embroidered  in  gold, 
a  fluted  skirt;  many  yards  in  width.  Her 
bracelets  and  bangles  were  studded  with  jew- 
els. The  band  played  as  the  procession  moved 
slowly  through  the  streets. 

The  palace  of  the  Mahah  Rajah  was  opened 
for  inspection;  the  rugs  were  rolled;  the  furni- 
ture covered  and,  as  the  Rajah  was  away  from 
home,  things  seemed  neglected.  Pigeons  were 
stalking  around  and  in  the  palace,  and  rare 
birds  of  bright  plumage  seemed  to  the  manor 
born  as  they  stood  or  flew  in  and  out  at  their 
own  sweet  will.  Hundreds  of  elephants  were 
kept  on  these  grounds  and  owned  by  the  Maha 
Rajah.  It  was  an  imposing  sight  to  see  these 
clumsy  but  dignified  animals  with  their  orien- 
tal trappings  and  painted  ear  flaps.  The  col- 
oring was  most  harmonious.  Horses  innumer- 
able were  in  the  stables  and  were  with  their 
care  keepers,  making  ready  for  their  daily  out- 
ing. It  is  a  scene,  when  elephants,  horses  and 
tigers  are  led  through  the  streets  and,  per- 
haps, witnessed  nowhere  else  in  such  regal 
splendor.  Camels  stalked  through  the  high- 
ways with  their  burdens ;  panther  dogs,  led  by 
their  masters,  strolled  leisurely  along;  in  fact, 
one  might  feel  it  was  a  gala  day  and  a  men- 
agerie on  exhibition.  There  are  public  cages 
here;  lions  and  tigers  can  be  seen  within  the 

87 


city's  limit.  Around  these  cages,  where  the 
crowds  gather,  come  the  poor,  wretched,  de- 
formed beggars,  heart-rending  to  gaze  upon — 
to  say  nothing  of  the  loathsome  lepers,  which 
were  more  hideous  than  the  wild  beasts. 

A  school  of  fine  arts,  sustained  hf  the  rulers 
of  Jeypore,  was  well  equipped  with  men  and 
boys,  who  were  industriously  and  skillfully 
beating  and  moulding  brass  into  useful  and 
decorative  articles.  Potter}'-,  and  especially 
lacquer  work  is  carried  on,  we  were  told,  to  a 
greater  degree  of  perfection  than  elsewhere  in 
the  world. 

It  was  at  Jeypore  we  saw  the  Nautch  girls, 
kept  by  the  Maha  Rajah  for  his  own  amuse- 
ment. Our  guide  would  have  us  believe 
that  we  were  greatly  favored  in  this,  our 
opportunity.  One  hour  spent  with  them  was 
(juite  enough,  and  cost  us  six  dollars,  a  ridiculous 
expenditure.  However,  we  have  started  out  to 
see  the  sights;  this  is  one  of  them.  We  were 
taken  to  a  house  and  led  up  to  the  second  story 
back  porch,  we  might  call  it,  overlooking  a 
gloomy  courtyard.  A  white  quilted  rug  was 
thrown  upon  the  floor.  Three  native  girls  ap- 
peared, dressed  gorgeously  in  knife-pleated 
skirts  to  the  knees,  embroidered  in  gold.  On 
their  heads  were  thrown  beautiful  grenadine 
scarfs,  drawn  gracefully  over  their  shoul- 
ders. Coronets  studded  with  jewels,  with  ear- 
rings, bracelets  and  bangles  resplendent  with 
dazzling  gems.     Three  women    stood    behind 

88 


these  girls,  advancing  and  retreating,  keeping 
time  with  their  rude  musical  instruments.  They 
move  their  bodies  in  a  most  disgusting  manner 
from  the  hip  down,  while  they  attempt  to  por- 
tray great  intensity  of  feeling.  In  a  short  time 
they  became  very  familiar,  and  disposed  to  be 
very  flirtatious  with  the  gentlemen  of  our 
party,  taking  ofif  their  bracelets,  ear-rings  and 
other  ornaments  and  attempted  to  place  them 
on  their  wrists  or  hang  them  on  their  ears. 
They,  in  return  are  anxious  to  secure  a  ring 
or  any  ornament  we  wear.  They  are  repulsive 
and  full  of  evil,  judging  from  their  looks  and 
actions.  They  were  roughly  spoken  to  by  an 
old,  grey-headed  woman,  who  evidently  had 
them  in  charge,  and,  we  thought,  was  urging 
them  to  offer  us  wine  or  refreshment,  from 
which  we  could  not  escape  before  paying,  but 
we  had  been  forewarned  and  hastily  withdrew, 
our  guide  settling  our  bill,  while  we  hurried 
into  our  carriage.  In  their  gyrations  they 
would  represent  snake  charmers,  kite-fiyers  and 
divers  and  other  mysterious  movements  that 
were  anything  but  graceful. 

Our  visit  to  Amber,  a  city  of  ruins  adjacent 
to  Jeypore,  was  made  partly  by  carriage  and 
the  ascent  of  the  mountain  by  elephant  to 
the  winter  palace  of  the  Rajah.  A  small  ladder 
was  attached  to  the  howdah  on  the  back  of  the 
animal,  and  one  by  one  we  climbed  and  took 
our  seat,  two  on  one  side  and  two  on  the  other 
— back  to  back.    While  making  this  climb  the 

89 


huge  elephant  knelt,  all  four  feet  doubled  un- 
der him.  When  we  were  seated  he  arose.  The 
motion  was  not  pleasant,  but  all  fear  was  dis- 
pelled by  the  two  faithful  coolies  who  walked 
on  either  side  of  Jumbo  and  directed  his  foot- 
steps with  an  irqn  probe.  We  reach  the  pal- 
ace, after  a  tedious  ride,  and  to  alight  was  a 
feat,  but  we  were  quite  repaid  by  the  interior 
views.  We  were  too  late  for  a  sacrifice 
that  had  just  been  made  of  a  sheep  or 
lamb ;  saw  nothing  but  a  sprinkling  of  blood 
and  the  dying  embers,  or  ashes,  upon  which  a 
portion  of  the  animal  sacrificed  is  cooked  for 
the  priests  in  attendance.  The  walls  of  the 
palace  were  most  unique.  Doubtless,  while  the 
plaster  was  still  wet,  pieces  of  mirror,  the  size 
of  a  25-cent  piece  were  imbedded  in  it,  and  so 
thickW  studded  were  these  walls  and  ceilings 
that  the  effect  was  brilliant.  The  rooms  were 
large  and  orange  trees  grew  apace  where  a 
spot  of  ground  appeared.  The  ruins  of  Amber, 
which  we  overlook,  seemed  the  haunts  of  fa- 
kirs, naked  and  covered  with  dirt;  with  their 
thin,  long  hair  matted,  hanging  over  their 
shoulders  or  on  their  faces.  These  fanatics, 
in  their  self  abnegation,  are  looking  for  their 
reward  in  Nirvanna,  where  they  think  only  those 
enter  who  from  self-denial  purify  themselves. 
Our  return  down  the  mountain  seemed  peril- 
ous, but  our  sure-footed  Jumbo  forbids  fears 
and  where  his  instincts  failed  the  goad  of  the 
native  caretakers   seemed   effective.     We   found 

90 


it  a  slow  mode  of  traveling,  but  sure.  We 
could  but  admire  the  oriental  coloring  of  Jum- 
bo's ear  flaps ;  they  were  those  of  a  superb  In- 
dia shawl.  On  the  wayside  we  saw  altars  for 
sacrifice  and  to  imitate  blood  was  rude  be- 
spatterment  of  red  paint  or  a  like  mixture.  I 
wondered  if  their  religion  taught  them  that 
this  is  emblematic  of  the  blood  that  cleanseth 
from  all  sin.  I  could  not  learn  from  inquiries 
made  of  my  guide. 

BOMBAY. 

The  trip  from  Jeypore  to  Bombay  was  the 
most  tedious  of  any  made  in  India,  as  we  made 
no  stops.  It  took  us  from  10:30  p.  m.  Monday 
till  8:30  p.  m.  on  Wednesday.  The  road  was 
monotonous  and  dusty ;  however,  the  nights 
were  cool  and  comfortable.  Our  compartment, 
although  commodious,  was  covered  with,  it 
seemed,  the  dust  of  ages,  but  on  pointing  it  out 
to  our  stupid  servant  he  immediately  took  off 
his  turban  of  white  cheese  cloth  and  mopped 
with  it  the  seats  and  floor,  shook  off  the  dust, 
literally,  and  replaced  it  in  form  of  a  turban, 
slightly  changed  in  coloring.  The  chiaroscuro 
was  striking.  The  meals  obtained  at  the  sta- 
tions were  most  unattractive. 

Bombay  is  built  upon  an  island,  although 
the  separation  from  the  mainland  is  scarcely 
perceptible.  The  waters  of  the  bay  are  studded 
with  islands,  and  the  harbor  is  capacious 
enough  for  the  commerce  of  the  world.     The 

9^ 


beautiful  road  skirting  the  bay  leads  to  Mal- 
abar Hill,  upon  which  are  the  homes  of  the 
foreign  officials,  and  upon  this  boulevard  is 
the  exquisite  statue  in  white  marble,  most  deli- 
cately carved,  of  Queen  Victoria  in  her  palmy 
day  appearance,  when  }'outh  and  hope  make  the 
countenance  brighter.  This  statue  was  rudely 
defaced  during  the  recent  plague  (1899)  by 
unknown  hands.  On  the  summit  of  Malabar 
Hill  are  the  Towers  of  Silence,  surrounded  by 
a  grove  of  palm  trees,  vvith  well  laid  out 
grounds.  On  either  side  of  the  entrance  to 
these  towers  are  chapels  on  whose  altar  burns 
the  unquenchable  fire  and  in  whose  purifica- 
tion the  following  of  Zoroaster  believe. 

There  are  eighty  steps  to  ascend  to  reach 
these  towers,  the  place  where  the  Parsee  dead 
are  deposited.  Four  carriers  support  the  bier, 
followed  closely  by  two  long-bearded  men  (who 
alone  enter  the  tower,  handling  the  corpse  with 
tongs  and  gloved  hands).  Fifty  or  a  hundred 
men  follow,  two  by  two  (clothed  in 
white,  wath  the  funnel-shaped  hat  worn  by 
the  Parsees).  One  peculiarity  of  this  sol- 
emn procession  was  the  tying  of  the 
right  and  left  hand  of  each  couple,  which 
had  some  religious  signification.  A  short  buri- 
al service  is  held  in  the  chapel  and  then  the 
body  deposited  at  the  foot  of  a  ladder  that 
clines  to  and  reaches  the  door  of  the  tower. 
This  aperture  is  about  five  feet  from  the  top 
of  the  tower,  wherein  lies  a  gridiron  circular 

92 


in  form,  ready  for  the  dead.  The  tower  is 
cylindrical  in  shape,  built  of  strong  masonr3% 
at  a  cost  of  from  $100,000  to  $150,000.  There 
are  four  of  these  in  the  enclosure ;  the  largest 
is  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  from  eighty  to  one 
hundred  feet  in  diameter.  A  deep  well  is  un- 
derneath the  tower,  and  as  the  flesh  is  con- 
sumed by  the  vultures,  which  are  perched  close 
beside  each  other  on  top  of  this  circular  wall, 
the  bones  fall  into  a  deep  well  (subterranean), 
where  by  some  chemical  process  they  soon  dis- 
solve and  pass  off  through  a  conduit  to  the  sea. 
The  voracious  vulture  is  so  gluttonous  over  the 
amount  of  food  brought  for  their  consumption 
that  they  frequently  become  so  gorged  that 
they  are  unable  to  fly  back  to  their  perch  from 
the  grating.  There  is  nothing  visible  that  is 
revolting,  and  no  odors  are  emitted.  The  wind- 
ing-sheet used  on  and  dispensed  with  on  de- 
positing the  body  in  the  tower  is  burnt;  in  this 
way  there  are  no  remains  of  impurity.  The 
Parsees  worship  one  supreme  God,  and  revere 
the  sun  and  fire  only  as  manifestations  of  the 
Deity,  and  never  fail  to  show  their  adoration 
when  the  sun  is  declining  below  the  horizon, 
by  stretching  forth  their  hands  and  bowing  to 
its  expiring  rays,  thus  acknowledging  the 
teachings  of  Zoroaster,  their  leader. 

Bombay  has  a  mixed  population.  Besides 
the  native  Indians  are  Persians,  Arabians,  Ab- 
yssinians,  Syrians,  Turks,  Greeks  and  people 
from  the  Island  of  Madagascar,  and — last  and 

93 


much  in  evidence — the  English.  The  Parsees, 
the  most  respected  sect,  vie  with  the  educated 
Hindoo  in  establishing  charity  schools  and  hos- 
pitals, and  both  are  alike  represented  in  the 
legislative  councils.  The  more  opulent  of  the 
Parsees  educate  their  sons  at  Cambridge  and 
Oxford,  and  generally  are  great  travelers.  They 
dress  in  European  costume,  but  never  at 
home  lay  aside  their  Parsee  hat,  so  character- 
istic of  the  sect.  We  w^ere  told  it  is  never 
discarded  by  day  or  night.  Caste  does  not 
separate  them  and  animal  food  is  not  forbid- 
den. 

We  are  invited  to  the  home  of  ?\Ir.  Tata,  a 
Parsee  gentleman.  His  family  ranks  high  in 
wealth  and  position  in  Bombay.  My  brother 
had,  on  one  occasion,  traveled  with  him  up  the 
Nile.  His  father  and  mother  adhere  to  the 
Parsee  dress,  but  their  sons,  having  been  edu- 
cated in  Cambridge  and  Oxford,  have  adopted 
the  European  dress,  but  still  wear  the  hat 
of  their  sect.  Their  home  occupied  an  entire 
square,  and  a  small  park  separated  it  from  the 
boulevard.  We  were  invited  to  a  four-o'clock 
tea.  As  we  drove  into  the  grounds  and  to  a 
porte  cochere  we  passed,  in  a  victoria,  Mr.  Tata's 
brother  with  his  wife.  She  was  dressed  in  the 
graceful,  elegant  robes  that  the  Parsee  lady 
wears  with  such  apparent  case.  The  doors 
were  thrown  open  on  our  approach,  by  two 
turbaned  and  handsomely  clad  servants.  Their 
v.hite       turbans      were       striped       with      gold 

94 


thread ;  their  dignified,  quiet  demeanor  was 
refreshing.  At  the  head  of  some  twenty  mar- 
ble steps,  full  thirty  feet  in  length,  we  were 
met  by  more  servants  in  oriental  dress,  and 
were  shown  into  the  reception  room.  Mr.  Tata 
was  there  to  receive  us,  and  after  a  few  com- 
monplace remarks  I  could  restrain  myself  no 
longer  and  began  to  expatiate  on  the  surround- 
ings. He  then  told  us  that  the  house  was 
thrown  open  once  a  week  for  a  length  of  time 
after  it  was  first  built,  that  their  friends  might 
come  and  bring  guests  to  see  their  collection 
of  bric-a-brac  and  the  rare  pictures.  At  the 
head  of  these  marble  steps  we  reached  a  hall, 
the  walls  of  which  were  lined  with  valuable 
oil  paintings.  The  house  was  built  on  the  line 
of  the  street — a  solid  front — but  the  interior 
rooms  faced  a  court  3'ard,  filled  with  the  most 
exquisite  foliage  plant  and  palms  like  forest 
trees.  A  glass  roof,  that  could  be  slid  aside, 
kept  these  from  the  elements.  With  a  modest 
air  of  ease  Mr.  Tata  took  us  from  room  to 
room.  The  portieres  separating  these  apart- 
ments had  been  made  to  order  in  Japan — em- 
broideries on  satin  of  pale  grey,  lined  with 
dififerent  shades  of  pink,  blue,  nile  green,  and 
some  with  white  silk.  On  both  sides  of  these  por- 
tieres were  hung  what  we  would  call  the 
sheerest  linen  cambric.  Tying  back  each  pair, 
when  desired,  were  ribbons  or  tassels  of  cor- 
responding colors.  All  the  wood  used  in  this 
house    was    imported,    rare    in    quality.      The 

95 


collection  of  carved  ivories  was  surpass- 
ingly beautiful,  as  were  also  articles  of 
jade.  We,  who  had  priced  them  in  China, 
Japan  and  India,  knew  their  value.  The  din- 
ing room  was  oblong,  and  at  an  oblong  table 
in  the  middle  of  the  floor  could  be  seated  five 
hundred  guests.  The  table  had  a  hollow  cen- 
ter. By  lifting  up  a  hinged  leaf  persons  could  be 
seated  on  either  side.  We  were  shown  the  but- 
ler's pantry,  large  enough  for  an  army 
of  servants.  Its  floors  were  inlaid  as  Mo- 
saic with  pieces  of  broken  china  and  cut 
glass.  Air.  Tata  said  it  was  his  father's  idea 
and  he  urged  him  to  get  out  a  patent.  The 
wine  department  made  one  thirsty,  and  the  cool- 
ers are  most  unique,  built  in  the  wall,  each  bot- 
tle lying  on  its  side  in  marble  chiseled  grooves, 
the  process  of  cooling  being  hid  from 
sight.  We  ascended  a  stairway  of  marble, 
whose  broad  steps  aflforded  a  landing  place  for 
our  feet,  and  we  could  but  linger  to  admire 
the  works  of  art  hung  upon  the  walls.  A  beau- 
tiful stained  glass  window,  with  full  effect  of 
the  setting  sun,  fronted  the  south  and  west  at 
the  head  of  these  steps  of  mammoth  dimen- 
sions. We  were  taken  into  Air.  Tata's  own  pri- 
vate parlor  and  from  his  bed-room,  or  an  ante- 
room, sprang  at  our  approach  more  turbaned  and 
splendidly  arrayed  servants,  who  immediately 
after  seating  us  offered  on  gold  salvers  deli- 
cately  shaped  tea  cups,  filled  wdth  the 
inviting      Indian     tea,      and      delicious      rolled 

96 


sandwiches  hid  in  doilies  of  jeweled  satin. 
Well,  we  drank  the  tea,  but  visions  of  the 
castle  that  Aladdin  had  built  in  one  night  by 
the  fairies  was  before  my  eyes,  and  fairly 
blinded  me.  We  were  disappointed  in  not  meet- 
ing his  mother  and  father,  both  of  whom  he  said 
were  at  the  bedside  of  his  aunt,  who  was  very  ill. 
In  bidding  adieu  to  our  admirable  host,  we  were 
told  a  carriage  was  ready  to  join  ours  that  would 
convey  his  best  friend  with  us  to  a  Parsee  wed- 
ding. We  wondered  why  Mr.  Tata  himself  did 
not  accompany  us,  but  found  no  Parsee  would  be 
bidden  or  allowed  to  enter  the  place  set  apart  for 
the  guest  at  a  wedding  feast,  without  a  wedding 
garment,  and  when  we  saw  that  of  the  gentleman 
who  went  with  us,  we  thought  Mr.  Tata  did 
not  care  to  make  such  an  appearance  before  his 
American  friends. 

The  dress  of  the  men  was  of  white  cotton 
cloth,  made  into  short,  stiff  and  exceedingly 
full  skirts  reaching  to  the  knee,  an  embroi- 
dered jacket  and  a  tall  Parsee  hat,  bare  legs 
and  sandals.  The  ladies  wear  one  outside  gar- 
ment of  silk  crepe  about  five  yards  long  of  deli- 
cate pink,  blue  and  other  dainty  tints  and  on 
either  edge  of  this  garment  is  a  narrow  velvet  rib- 
bon an  inch  wide,  of  a  contrasting  color — dark 
blue,  light  blue,  pink  or  maroon  in  shade.  This 
strip  of  velvet  is  embroidered  in  gold  and  sil- 
ver thread  and  inlaid  with  turquoise,  emer- 
alds, pearls,  etc.  This  article  of  drapery 
is  first  thrown  over  the  head  to  cover  one  ear, 

97 


on  the  other  of  which,  by  the  way,  Is  hung  the 
most  gorgeous  solitaire  diamond,  emerald  or 
ruby.  This  scarf  is  then  draped  most  artistically 
about  the  shoulders  and  waist  and  droops  in 
graceful  folds  over  a  silk  or  satin  petticoat. 
They  are  very  expensive;  even  those  wrought 
with  imitation  gems  cost  more  than  we  felt  like 
expending. 

There  seems  to  be  a  building,  or  rather  two 
of  them,  set  apart  for  the  wedding  ceremonies 
which,  we  were  told,  were  only  consummated 
at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  (December  and 
January).  The  grounds  around  were  beauti- 
fully laid  out  with  arches  of  electric  lights  span- 
ning the  fountains,  with  their  sparkling  wa- 
ters, made  more  scintillating  by  the  flickering 
lights  above  them.  The  bride's  house  was  on 
one  side  of  the  entriance,  the  groom's  on  the 
other.  Her  friends  were  with  her ;  the  groom's 
friends  with  him.  He  sat  at  the  door,  with  a 
magnificent  India  shawl  folded  and  thrown 
over  his  arm,  the  gift  of  his  best  man,  and 
wore  the  costume  described  above.  The  bride 
wore  a  blue  crepe  of  very  light  shade.  At  a 
given  signal  she,  with  a  female  friend,  was 
followed  by  all  of  those  men,  women  and  chil- 
dren in  procession  from  the  door  of  her  apart- 
ment to  that  of  the  groom's.  He  received  her 
at  the  threshold  and  conducted  her  to  one  of 
four  seats — two  for  themselves  and  two  for 
their  attendants.  These  chairs  were  placed  on 
a  rug.    Priests,  two  in  number,  stood  on  either 

98 


side  of  them.  A  table  with  a  large  silver 
salver,  filled  with  well  scraped  cocoanut  in 
their  shells,  to.s^ether  with  two  large  bowls  of 
rice  were  brought  and  placed  before  them,  the 
former  designating  plenty,  the  latter  denoting 
increase  or  conveying  the  command,  "multiply 
and  replenish."  These  the  priests  hold  in 
their  hands  after  first  causing  the  bride  to  take 
a  seat  opposite  her  husband  elect  and,  throw- 
ing a  cord  around  their  waists,  tie  them  close- 
ly together,  and  begin  alternately  to  speak  in 
an  emphatic  manner,  showering,  continually, 
the  rice  on  their  devoted  heads ;  when  the 
quantity  was  exhausted  the  bowls  were  re- 
plenished. Afterwards  cocoanuts  were  given 
to  each  to  hold,  and  for  two  hours  this  went 
on.  The  crowd,  in  the  meantime,  stood  while 
a  rug  was  spread  and  chairs  were  given  to  us, 
the  honored  guests.  The  children  were  most 
elaborately  attired  in  pink  and  blue  satin, 
short  and  full  skirt,  with  bracelets  and  bangles 
in  profusion ;  they  were  very  attractive.  One 
of  these  dear  little  girls  never  let  go  my  hand, 
but  had  led  me  in  the  procession  to  the  groom's 
house,  and  sat  with  me  during  the  ceremony. 
Love  begets  love  and  I  felt  like  keeping  her 
close  to  me.  Beautiful  little  satin  slippers  matched 
their  dresses.  After  the  ceremony  was  over, 
the  cord  was  loosened  and  the  bride  sat  at  her 
husband's  left  and  received  congratulations.  We 
then  returned  to  the  bride's  house,  across  the 
court-yard  and  had  a  rich  feast  of  fruits,  dainties 

99 


and  wines;  a  few  drops  of  the  latter  turned  my 
head,  but  had  to  be  drank  for  the  sake  of  poHte- 
ness.  The  ceremony  was  only  half  over  when  we 
left,  all  exhausted,  for  immediately  after  re- 
freshments another  two  hours  of  this  harangue 
by  the  priests  had  to  be  endured.  What  bliss 
was  this? 

On  the  following  day  the  visit  to  the  Elphanta 
caves  by  sailing  vessel  was  most  tedious,  as  the 
wind  was  against  us,  but  on  our  return  it  was  in 
our  favor,  "and  we  flew  like  a  bird  from  the 
mountain"  homeward.  The  landing  at  these  caves 
was  difficult.  Stepping  stones  of  huge  dimensions 
stretch  out  into  the  water  like  a  pier ;  an  ascent  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  steps  from  the  sea  level 
brings  us  to  the  home  of  the  carekeeper,  who  at 
once,  for  an  admittance  fee,  proceeds  to  the  tem- 
ple close  by  and  explains  clearly  all  things  neces- 
sary for  our  enlightenment.  The  temple  is  of 
solid  rock;  the  builders  began  half  way  up  the 
mountain  of  stone  and  cut  down  perpendicularly, 
thus  removing  the  mountain  face  to  a  depth  of 
thirty  feet  by  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  width. 
This  Besaltic  rock  is  chiseled  into  the  interior  of 
the  mountain,  where  perfect  chambers,  with 
colossal  gods,  wrought  by  hand  out  of  the  stone, 
stand  in  representation  of  the  Trinity  gods. 
Brahma  represents  the  creative  power;  Vishnu 
the  preserving  power,  and  Siva  the  destroying 
power.  The  guardian  of  this  temple,  an  old 
Englishman  and  his  wife,  who  keep  things 
scrupulously  clean,  and  in  their  own  habitation 


lOO 


offer  us  refreshments  for  a  small  compensation. 
Our  ship  the  "Caledonia,"  Capt.  Andrews  in 
command,  sails  to-morrow.  All  is  bustle  and 
confusion  at  the  Oriental  Hotel.  We  have  en- 
joyed Bombay,  with  its  beautiful  carved  woods ; 
its  ivories,  and  lovely  sandal  wood  boxes ;  its 
teak  furniture ;  its  markets,  where  everything 
from  a  shoe  string-  to  a  monkey  or  parrot  can 
be  bought ;  its  bazaars,  where  one  must  have  a 
level  head  to  survive  the  noise  of  bartering-,  to 
say  nothing  or  but  little  of  the  jugglers  who 
swarm  beneath  the  veranda  of  the  hotel,  perform- 
ing most  marvelous  feats  with  their  cobras  and 
swords  for  the  few  piasters  that  are  thrown 
from  an  admiring  and  amazed  crowd  of  travelers. 
We  must  not  fail  to  speak  of  pleasant  acquaint- 
ances made ;  of  Sir  Richard  and  Lady  Campbell, 
who  will  be  our  companions  en  voyage  when  we 
leave  this  port  of  Bombay  until  we  shall  say  good 
bye  to  them,  and  Mr.  and  Miss ,  of  Eng- 
land, of  whom  I  have  before  written.  We  ship 
all  trunks,  save  our  steamer,  to  Albert  Docks, 
London,  where  we  hope  to  reclaim  them  before 
re-embarking  for  home.  The  parting  of  retired 
army  officers,  their  wives  and  daughters, 
from  the  sons  and  brothers  who  are  left  behind 
to  achieve  fame  perhaps,  or  lose  their  lives  in 
the  farther  service  to  their  country,  seemed  less 
affecting  than  I  imagined  such  scenes  would  be, 
but  we  find  patriotism  very  pronounced  among 
the  British  subjects.  They  expressed  hope  of  a 
speedy  return  for  one  or  many  more  wild  boar  or 

lOI 


tiger  hunts  amid  the  jungles,  where  they  may 
add  to  their  ah'eady  large  stock  of  skins. 
We  found  the  best  stock  of  these  for  sale  in  Cal- 
cutta in  a  famous  house  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  street  from  the  Grand  Hotel.  It  is  essen- 
tial to  select  a  tiger  skin  with  perfect  claws 
and  natural  teeth,  as  too  often  artificial  ones  are 
used  to  promote  a  sale,  and  to  have  them  per- 
fect in  their  curing  is  most  desirable ;  if  not, 
your  trunk  in  which  they  are  packed  will  be  well 
filled  with  vermin.  A  zinc  trunk  is  advisable, 
which  can  be  purchased  in  the  shops,  and  at  rea- 
sonable prices. 

Adieux  are  spoken,  the  beautiful  bay  sparkles 
in  the  sunlight,  and  we  bid  a  farewell  to  the 
land  we  may  never  see  again.  My  own  per- 
sonal regrets  are  few,  for  I  have  suffered  dur- 
ing the  entire  sojourn  from  a  depression  very 
unlike  my  normal  condition.  I  hope  this  be- 
nighted race  may  yet  be  brought  from  darkness 
into  light  and  that  one  common  brotherhood 
may  be  established,  and  love  divine  shine  over 
all. 


102 


EGYPT. 

The  Arabian  sea  is  to  me  a  reminder  of  tran- 
quility; the  thought  of  no  more  temples  to  see, 
no  more  heights  to  climb,  no  poor,  wretched 
beings,  whose  only  existence  is  prolonged  agony 
to  behold,  for  at  least  from  the  hour  of  sailing, 
12  a.  m.,  on  Saturday,  14th  of  December,  1895, 
until  we  reach  Ismalia,  Saturday,  December  21, 
at  12 :30  p.  m.,  what  blissful  anticipation,  and 
so  fully  realized  on  this  quiet  trip.  A  snug, 
cool  cabin  all  to  myself,  which  opened  into  a 
private  hallway  with  a  great  open  hatchway, 
or  open  half-door,  gave  me  the  delicious  sea 
air  in  its  fulness  of  life  and  vigor  without  the 
necessity  of  my  going  on  deck.  Our  steamer 
chairs  bought  at  Hongkong  were  shipped 
through  from  Ismalia  on  the  same  vessel  we 
were  sailing  to  Albert  Docks,  London,  where  I 
found  mine  in  good  condition.  I  could  recline 
in  this  private  hall,  book  in  hand,  and  cull  from 
its  valuable  contents,  information  of  the  objects 
I  had  seen,  and  what  was  still  in  store  for 
me — all  the  Oriental  steamers  have  well- 
chosen  libraries  for  the  benefit  of  travelers.  I 
had  in  anticipation  from  the  beginning  of  my 
trip  a  strong  desire  to  note  in  my  diary  items 
of  interest,  that  I  might  have  enough  driftwood 
on  my  return  home  for  winter  fireside,  and  from 

103 


further  research  to  be  able  to  leave  to  my  grand- 
children some  fruit  that  would  be  to  them  a 
lasting  remembrance  of  me. 

We  have  booked  on  the  steamer  "Caledonia" 
seventy  first-class  passengers.  Among  them, 
my  new-made  acquaintances,  Sir  Richard  Camp- 
bell, wife  and  two  daughters.  The  former  was 
none  too  happy  in  his  retirement  from  active 
service  to  a  passive  one  in  the  bogs  of  Ireland 
or  to  a  shoot  on  the  moors  of  Scotland.  We 
will  credit  him  with  no  desire  to  capture  and 
hold  captive  the  native  coolies,  but  with  a  long- 
ing while  still  in  sight  of  India's  coral  strand 
for  the  boar  and  tiger  haunts.  I  suggested 
when  he  bemoaned  of  having  no  longer 
suf^cient  work  to  do  to  keep  him  happy,  that 
he  would  write  a  book  of  experiences  of  his  life 
in  English  service.  He  replied :  "The  market 
is  overstocked  and  with  but  little  variety  or 
freshness  in  the  productions  of  the  pen."  His 
wife  wall  long  live  in  my  memory  as  a  fac  simile 
of  gentleness  and  refinement.  I  doubt  whether 
she  is  in  the  body  at  my  time  of  writing,  as  a 
slow  but  sure  sapping  of  life's  strength  was 
going  on  from  her  long  stay  in  India's  treach- 
erous climate. 

Sunday's  service  was  read  on  board  our 
steamer  by  an  officer,  at  whose  right  hand  at  the 
table,  I  \vas  seated  during  our  voyage.  He  was 
clever  and  I  enjoyed  the  conversations  held  with 
him.  A  smooth  sea  and  a  fresh-laundried  shirt 
waist  W'Cre  most  refreshing  on  that  warm,  but 

104 


lovely  sail.  We  landed  at  Aden,  a  British  port 
and  important  coaling  station,  at  ii  :oo  a.  m., 
December  17  (Wednesday),  where  we  lay  three 
hours.  From  Aden  is  exported  Mocha  coffee. 
Where  it  grows  I  cannot  imagine,  for  the  port 
is  to  all  appearances,  the  most  rocky,  barren 
shore  we  have  yet  seen — desolation  of  desolation. 
Fortunately  no  coaling  was  necessary  for  our 
vessel ;  it  is  a  most  disagreeable  task,  and  passen- 
gers go  ashore  if  possible  to  escape  the  dirt  and 
noise.  All  the  carpets  and  furniture  are  cov- 
ered with  temporary  coverings  during  the  trans- 
fer from  the  barges  of  these  huge  sacks  filled 
with  coal.  From  hand  to  hand  are  they  tossed 
by  the  native  coolies,  the  majority  of  the  num- 
ber employed  being  women.  The  labor  here, 
as  on  the  Nile,  seems  to  be  lightened  by  a  cry, 
or  wail,  which  never  ceases  till  the  work  is  ac- 
complished. Natives  in  their  canoes  came  in 
swarms  around  the  steamer  as  she  lay  at  anchor, 
bringing  their  stock  in  trade,  which  consisted 
of  ostrich  feather  boas,  black  or  a  color  bor- 
dering on  it,  with  those  of  the  original  grey. 
In  our  excitement  to  get  a  bargain  we  pur- 
chased, but  they  were  poor  specimens  and  not 
worth  the  pound  we  paid  for  them,  but  we  en- 
joyed the  fun  of  bartering.  Some  of  the  pas- 
sengers bought  long,  stiff,  white  plumes,  which 
could  be  utilized  in  making  fans.  After  our 
purchases  were  made  Mrs.  Dudley  and  mvself 
having  each  selected  a  grey  boa,  were  warned 

by  one  who  had  been  there  before  that  we  had 

105 


more  than  we  bargained  for,  and  that  it  would  be 
better  before  depositing  them  in  the  trunks  to 
investigate.  We  needed  no  farther  explanation, 
but  held  at  a  safe  distance  the  coveted  articles  and 
rushed  to  my  cabin,  while  Mrs.  Dudley  sent  to 
the  head  steward  for  a  package  of  cayenne  pep- 
per, which  had  been  my  su"'9'estion.  After  a 
fierce  struggle,  we  succeeded  in  thoroughly 
sprinkling  the  feathery  lengths,  and  then  pur- 
loined a  steamer  towel,  sewing  them  up  until  we 
should  reach  Paris,  where  we  determined  to 
have  them  steamed  and  curled,  providing  there 
was  anything  to  curl.  On  my  arrival  in  that 
city  of  fashion,  I  immediately  sought  a  Tapissier 
or  cleaner,  and  besought  them  not  to  sue  me  for 
damages,  if  they  should,  on  opening  the  pack- 
age, sneeze  themselves  to  death.  In  a  few  days, 
on  my  return  to  our  Pension  with  two  friends, 
we  passed  the  feather  cleaner's  establishment, 
when  what  to  my  wondering  eyes  did  appear, 
but  a  huge  caterpillar  in  appearance  in  the  win- 
dow, which  we  all  declared,  must  have  escaped 
from  the  jardin  d'acclimatation.  After  many  un- 
complimentary remarks,  I  was  compelled  to  ac- 
knowledge that  it  belonged  to  me  and  was 
bought  in  the  Orient  among  other  articles  of 
"virtu."  But  to  return  to  Aden.  We  were 
struck  with  the  weird  looks  of  the  natives,  with 
nothing  to  conceal  their  nakedness  but  the 
sacred  cord  around  their  loins.  Their  hair  was 
red;  their  skin  black;  the  "Witches  of  Endor" 
would  have  paled  in  comparison.     The  water 

1 06 


seemed  to  be  their  native  element;  they  would 
dive  down  and  under  the  vessel,  apnearinp"  on 
the  opposite  side  for  a  piaster,  which,  when 
thrown  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel  into  the  water, 
they  would  bring  to  the  surface  in  their  mouths. 
The  day  following  we  were  on  the  Red  Sea — 
smooth  sailing,  and  no  land  in  sight ;  weather, 
(December  i8th,)  beautifully  cool  and  pleasant. 
The  passengers  on  deck  enjoyed  the  sport  so 
much  in  vogue  on  these  "P.  and  O."  steamers. 
"Pull  for  your  life,"  which  enlisted  the  participa- 
tion of  ladies  and  gentlemen;  the  latter,  after  re- 
moving their  shoes,  could  stand  on  the  well-sand- 
ed deck.  The  leaders  locked  horns  and  their  com- 
rades chose  sides,  each  placing  their  arms  around 
the  waists  of  the  one  preceding  them,  and  then 
came  the  "tug  of  war."  It  was  as  great  fun  to 
the  bystander  as  it  was  good  exercise  for  those 
engaged  in  the  sport.  A  reward  followed  to  the 
victorious  side,  which,  perhaps,  took  the  form  of 
ginger  ale  or  seltzer.  We  enter  the  Suez  canal 
at  4:00  p.  m.,  December  21st  (Saturday  after- 
noon). The  evening  shadows  closed  around  us; 
the  low  shores  sank  into  half-transparent  vague- 
ness, and  threw  into  relief  against  the  evening 
sky  a  solitary  individual  straying  along  the 
water's  edge,  while  within,  a  hundred  yards 
from  shore,  were  a  band  of  Arabs,  folding  their 
tents,  preparatory  to  a  long  journey  across  the 
desert.  It  was  a  most  impressive  scene.  The 
quiet  was  almost  overpowering.  The  lonely 
hour  and  the  more  lonely  surroundings,  all  com- 

107 


bined,  made  an  indelible  impression.  The  cam- 
els were  in  the  act  of  kneeling  to  receive  the 
burden  they  must  carry  on  the  journey. 
In  the  moonlight,  the  undulating  sands  of  the 
Lybian  and  Arabian  deserts  looked  like  the  bil- 
lows of  an  ocean,  and  the  camels  with  their 
swaying  motion  like  moving  sail  vessels,  were 
lost  to  sight  in  solemn  silence.  This  voyage  on 
the  Suez  canal  has  a  charm  of  its  own  inde- 
finable. 

The  Suez  maritime  canal  is  about  120  miles 
in  length  from  sea  to  sea  (Mediterranean  to  the 
Red).  Out  of  this  length  only  thirty-eight  miles 
were  found  to  be  above  sea  level ;  the  remain- 
ing eighty-two  were  either  below  or  on  the 
same  level.  About  midway  between  the  two 
seas  is  Lake  Timsah,  nine  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence. That  basin  is  converted  into  a  central 
harbor,  where  vessels  may  at  all  times  find  a 
safe  and  convenient  anchorage.  From  El  Guise, 
through  which  the  canal  passes  to  the  INIediter- 
ranean,  the  width  is  240  feet,  and  from  El  Guise 
to  Ismalia  it  is  180  feet,  after  which  it  passes 
into  the  proper  width,  240  feet.  The  estimate 
of  keeping  the  canal  in  order,  from  its  comple- 
tion in  1869  to  1895,  is  about  £75,000  sterling. 
Great  dredges  lie  near  the  shore  as  we  pass, 
from  which  vessels  steer  away.  Charges  agreed 
upon  for  transit  are  ten  francs,  or  two  dollars, 
per  ton ;  hence,  our  steamer  "Caledonia"  paid  for 
her  weight  of  4,125  tons,  $825.  The  Indian  steam- 
ers, instead  of  stopping  at  Suez,  steam  direct- 

108 


ly  to  Port  Said,  anchoring  off  Ismalia  only 
long  enough  for  passengers  to  land.  We 
reached  this  point  at  12:00  p.  m.  Before  ar- 
riving a  late  supper  was  ordered  by  a  few  to 
celebrate  the  leave-taking,  for  many  who  had 
traveled  together  so  far  were  to  continue  their 
journey  to  Marseilles  and  from  thence  to  Eng- 
land, and  others  with  us  were  to  go  into 
Egypt.  We  here  bade  good-bye  to  Mr.  and 
Miss  Donnesthorpe,  who  had  been  with  us  en 
route  from  Nagasaki,  Japan.  Before  leaving 
Mr.  Donnesthorpe  gave  me  his  confidence  re- 
garding his  engagement  to  an  English  girl  he 
had  left  at  home.  The  outward-bound  vessels, 
instead  of  stopping  at  Alexandria,  steam  direct 
through  the  canal  to  Suez  and  Bombay,  while 
one  vessel  homeward  bound  passes  through 
this  canal  every  week.  Thus,  two  vessels  a 
week  make  104  a  year.  Averaging  1,000  tons 
per  vessel,  the  aggregate  104,000  tons  at  two 
dollars  a  ton  will  produce  the  sum  of  £41,600 
sterling  annually.  These  vessels  carry  to  and 
from  home  about  10,000  persons  a  year,  and 
this  number  pay  £4,000,  so  that  from  the 
Peninsular  and  Oriental  line  of  steamers  alone 
the  canal  company  will  receive  £45,000  an- 
nually, exclusive  of  the  duties  received  from 
coal  ships.  Total  averages  from  other  lines 
are  about  £185,000,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
pilgrim.s  from  Tunis,  Tripoli,  on  their  pilgrim- 
ages to  Medinah  and  Mecca.  $5,000  to  $8,000 
is  saved  on  this  route  of  travel  to  the  mer- 

log 


chants  from  England  to  India.  The  depth  of 
this  canal  in  every  part  is  twenty-six  feet. 
Steam  is  supplanting  the  use  of  sails,  for  the 
Red  Sea  offers  no  exceptional  difficulties  to 
steamers.  No  vessel  v^ould  require  more  than 
her  sails,  for  the  wind  blows  strong  and  steady 
during  nine  months  of  the  year. 

The  opening  celebration  of  the  canal  by  the 
viceroy    was    regal.      An    opera   house,    theatre 
and  circus  were  constructed  in  Cairo;  gas  was 
introduced  into  the  city  of  the  Mameluke  Ca- 
liphs;  Ezhekiah  plaza  was  renovated  in  a  man- 
ner  that  ten   years  before   would   have  been 
thought  impossible ;  the  streets  were  laid  out 
and  flanked  by  granite  and  freestone  curbing, 
and  sidewalks  laid  with  massive  flagstone;  rail- 
way stations  renovated  and  the  streets  leading 
to  it  improved,  so  that  on   first  introduction  a 
stranger  would  be  favorably  impressed.    The 
viceroy's  palaces  were    repainted    and    every 
hotel  in  Cairo  was  engaged  for  the  guests  of 
the  Khedive,  to  feed  them  and  lodge  them  at 
48  shillings  per  day   per  capita;    all   carriages 
and  cabs  free  and  at  their  disposal,  the  cost  of 
entertainment  was  $2,000,000.     Light  houses 
were  erected  at  Bitter  Lake,  and  electric  lights 
of  great  power  at  Port     Said.     Ismalia,     the 
center  part  of  the  Suez  canal,  is  on  Lake  Tis- 
mah;  it  was  filled  with  water  from  the  Medi- 
terranean, November,  1862,  through  the  canal 
the  average   depth  was  nineteen   feet.     Ismalia 
stands  at  the  confluence    of    three    canals;    the 


no 


Maritime,  Sweet  Water  from  Suez  to  Ismalia, 
and  the  canal  from  Zazazed  to  Ismalia,  which 
runs  through  Ancient  Goshen,  in  whose  confines 
dwelt  the  children  of  Israel  400  years. 

''The  harbor  of  Suez  roadbeds  was  found  to 
afford  anchorage  for  500  ships,  its  depth 
being  from  sixteen  to  twenty-four  feet,  bot- 
tomed with  soft  mud.  In  1858  the  canal  com- 
pany chose  for  its  president  M.  Ferdinand  de 
Lesseps.  In  1859  the  work  was  commenced. 
Mohammed  Said  Pasha  of  Egypt  took  177,642 
shares.  In  1863  Said  Pasha  died  and  Ismail, 
son  of  Ibrahim,  son  of  Mohammed  Ali,  suc- 
ceeded to  the  vice-royalty  of  Egypt.  England 
was  jealous  of  the  concession  to  France.  The 
sultan  wavered,  but  Napoleon  III.  had  his  eye 
on  him,  and  he  was  frightened  out  of  his  in- 
tended course.  Ismail  broke  his  contract  with 
the  canal  company  and  would  furnish  no  fel- 
lahs. Napoleon  III.  came  to  the  rescue  of  De 
Lesseps.  A  committee  composed  equally  of 
French  and  Egyptians,  was  called  by  Napoleon 
and  declared  in  favor  of  the  company  to  the 
amount  of  £3,600,000,  to  be  payable  in  install- 
ments in  fifteen  years." 

De  Lesseps,  long  calumniated,  individual- 
ly persevered  against  disadvantages  in  the  un- 
dertaking, until  finally  (November  17,  1869) 
he  exhibits  with  worthy  pride  his  mighty 
achievement  to  the  civilized  globe,  represent- 
ed by  crowned  heads  and  dignitaries  of  all  coun- 
tries, monarchial  and  republican. 

Ill 


During  our  stay  of  twenty-four  hours,  or 
even  less  time,  in  Ismalia,  we  visited  the  home 
De  Lesseps  occupied  during  his  sojourn  here. 
It  was  within  an  enclosure  where  beautiful 
trees  overshadowed  the  house  and  it  looked 
lonely  and  forsaken.  We  also  went  to  the 
house  or  palace  vrhich  the  Viceroy  had  built  for 
himself.  Dogs  formidably  guarded  the  en- 
trance. We  did  not  tarry  long,  but  my  brother 
and  I  wandered  far  enough  into  the  sands  of 
the  desert  to  satisfy  all  our  longings  forever- 
more.  The  canal  was  built  by  the  French,  but 
the  English  bought  most  of  the  stock  and  have 
control  of  it,  although  it  runs  through  Egyp- 
tian territory.  From  .  the  inhospitable  Hotel 
Victoria  we  rode  on  a  tramway  to  the  depot, 
where  rather  a  poor  train  of  cars  awaited  us, 
conveying  us  for  miles  through  the  desert 
sands,  suddenly  merging  into  plains  and  reach- 
ing Cairo  at  6:00  p.  m.,  the  22d  of  December. 
Little  by  little  the  plain  becomes  less  green  as 
we  approach  the  Egyptian  capital;  the  valley 
contracted  and  the  pyramids  appear  roseate  be- 
neath the  rays  of  the  setting  sun.  On  the  rigfht, 
through  the  palm  trees,  against  the  yellow 
tones  of  the  Lybian  desert,  are  the  heights  of 
Mokattam,  with  the  citadel  and  the  mosques 
of  Mahomet  Ali,  the  dome  of  which  shines 
brilliantly  between  two  tapering  minarets.  A 
forest  of  minarets  and  white  vralls  and  we  have 
arrived  amid  deafening  cries  of  the  cabmen 
and    the    running   omnibuses    for    the    different 

112 


hotels.     My  brown  "Cheap  Jack"  purchased  in 
Bombay  to  carry   a  steamer  rug  which   I   had 
bought   there   again   proved    a    white    elephant, 
but  after  many  gestures  it  is  transferred  by  a 
porter  to  Shephard's  Hotel.    Crowds  stand  wait- 
ing for  rooms  to  be  allotted  them,  and  as  good 
luck  has  so  far  followed  me  both  on  steamers 
and  at  hotels,   I  find  myself    in    a    brief    time 
nicely  ensconced  in  a  sunny  room.     We  hasten 
to  make  ready  for  dinner,  and  are  most  happy 
to     be     seated     alongside     of     Mrs.     John     A. 
Logan  and  her  party  of  four  young  ladies  and 
Doctor  B.,  who  heads  the    table    and    proves 
himself  a  most  fitting  decoration.     The  salon 
is  crowded,  and  at  one  end  on  a  stage  is  sta- 
tioned a  band  of  native  musicians,  male  and  fe- 
male, with  European  musical  instruments  up- 
on which  the  latest  opera  airs  were  played.    It 
is  customary  after  dinner  is  served  to  join  the 
immense  crowd    that    promenades  or    is  seated, 
according  to  choice,  in  the  corridors  and  ex- 
change of  the  building.     There  tiny  cups  of 
cofifee     with     brandy,    absinthe    and    cigarettes 
are     offered     by     the     coolies     in     picturesque 
dress.     Ladies,  as  well  as  men,  partook  freely, 
handling  the  cigarette  with  an  air  of  nonchalance 
which  bespoke  its  frequent  use.     It  seemed  that 
people  from  every  nation  and  every  tribe  vv'ere 
assembled  there.    The  air  became  dense,  and  it 
has  been  truly  said  that  nowhere  else  than  in 
Shephard's    Hotel    can    such    a    transformation 
scene  be  witnessed.    Manv  of  mv  own  neighbors 

113 


from  Chicago  were  here.  We  met  our  Japanese 
colonel  again.  He  had  just  returned  from  the 
Nile  trip.  He  walked  with  the  assurance  of  a  man 
who  had  won  laurels  and  was  wearing  them. 
I  was  glad  to  meet  him,  as  our  close  proxim- 
ity at  the  table  on  the  steamers  promoted  a 
good  feeling  between  us.  Cairo  is  a  winter 
resort  for  English,  Arabians,  Swedes  and  in 
fact  the  climate  attracts  from  all  over  the 
world.  The  ladies  who  are  there  for  the  sea- 
son make  as  great  a  display  of  fine  clothes  as 
we  see  in  our  own  drawing  rooms  at  home ;  in 
fact,  the  display  of  jewels  is  regal.  But  of  this 
the  traveler  wearies,  as  our  days  are  so  busy ; 
we  willingly  retire  early  to  restore  nature's 
wasted  powers.  One  old  lady  from  Wales  sat 
with  her  gouty  feet  on  a  cushion,  to  which  you 
were  oblivious,  for  she  was  so  bejewelled.  She 
was  an  Egyptologist,  she  told  me.  I  found  hcv 
an  agreeable  woman,  but  fond  of  display.  I 
apologized  for  my  Quaker-like  garb,  explain- 
ing to  her  why  I  did  not  feel  at  ease  in  such  a 
crowd  in  my  quiet  silk  gown ;  that  I  had  only 
a  steamer  trunk  with  me,  and  while  its  con- 
tents might  ordinarily  have  passed  muster,  the 
piling  on  top  of  them — a  lot  of  "Benares  brass" 
—had  crushed  what  little  stiffness  my  balloon 
sleeves  had  once  maintained.  She  scanned  me 
closely  and,  with  a  confidential  air,  whispered: 
"You  are  a  good  conversationalist,  anyhow, 
so  never  mind."  I  really  began  to  feel  a  sense 
of  inflation,  and  looked  to  see  my  sleeves  puff 
up. 


114 


The  poor  villages  of  Egypt,  a  collection 
of  dilapidated  houses  built  of  clay,  baked 
by  the  burning  sun  and  roofed  with  dry 
sorghum  leaves,  were  scattered  here  and 
there.  Here  are  seen  cafes  built  of  loam  and 
straw  and  rickety  planks  upon  which  exhaust- 
ed beggars  sleep  in  sordid  rags,  where  poor 
peasants  devour  a  doura  cake  and  drink  a  cup 
of  coffee;  women  in  long,  blue  gowns,  carry- 
ing water  in  heavy  clay  pitchers ;  camels  load- 
ed with  sugar-cane;  asses  bending  beneath 
bulky  bags  of  rice;  heron,  plover  and  white 
pigeons ;  Pharaoh's  chickens  hover  overhead, 
watching  with  piercing  eyes  their  prey;  peli- 
cans amid  the  Papyrus,  a  blue  lotus,  a  plant 
dear  to  the  Pharaohs,  which  one  finds  every- 
where engraved  on  the  walls  of  their  temples ; 
dusky  girls  with  long,  slender  hands  and  tap- 
ering fingers,  the  nails  reddened  with  Henna, 
holding  a  corner  of  their  garment  between  their 
teeth  to  hide  their  faces  and  pushing  flocks  of 
turkeys  before  them.  They  walk  slowly,  gazing 
frankly,  while  the  copper  bangles  clank  gently 
on  their  delicately  moulded  ankles. 

The  population  of  Cairo  in  1895  was  about 
350,000.  The  Khedive  lives  with  his  wife  and 
family  at  the  Palace  of  Ismalia,  near  the  Nile 
bridge.  He  is  a  strict  monogamist,  loyal  in 
his  married  life  and  detests  slavery  as  much  as 
polygamy.  All  his  attendants  are  paid  wages. 
He  is  said  to  rise  at  4:00  or  5:00  a.  m.,  eats  no 
breakfast,    exercises    two    hours,    and    between 

"5 


seven  and  eight  o'clock  drives  in  state  to  Abdin 
Palace,  which  is  about  a  half  mile  from  Is- 
malia,  his  home.  Abdin  is  the  usual  place  for 
receptions  and  ceremonial  visits.  Here  the 
Khedive  spends  the  day,  transacting  various 
business,  seeing  ministers,  reading  letters  and 
telegrams  and  talking  with  his  courtiers. 
At  5  :oo  p.  m.  he  drives  again  with  his  guard, 
preceded  by  his  athletic  sais  about  forty  feet 
in  advance,  while  in  his  victoria  sits  always 
some  companion  beside  him.  These  sais  at- 
tract much  attention,  so  very  graceful  are 
they  in  appearance.  Their  white  Turkish 
trousers,  their  gold  embroidered  bolero  jacket, 
with  bright,  oriental  sashes  and  a  cap  of  bright 
color  that  sets  off  their  fine  features  and  well- 
shaped  head.  They  are  very  fleet,  but  we  were 
told  that  their  earthly  race  is  soon  run,  the  ex- 
ercise being  too  violent.  We  take  donkeys  to 
visit  the  bazaars.  There  is  a  change  of  tem- 
perature, about  60  deg.  Fah.,  but  the  attempt 
made  to  keep  our  seat  on  our  lively  animals 
brought  out  the  perspiration,  as  this  was  our 
maiden  effort.  The  name  of  the  present  Khe- 
dive is  Lewfak  (1895).  On  a  recent  occasion 
he  was  asked :  "What  would  be  the  effect  on 
the  harem  if  the  slaves  and  eunuchs  were  no 
longer  on  guard?"  He  replied:  "The  women 
would  rush  into  all  sorts  of  license."  He  agreed 
that  education  was  the  one  thing  needful,  and 
in  accordance  with  his  convictions  has  started 
a    high    school    for    girls,  at  his  own  expense. 

116 


The  Mussulman  women's  morals  are  very  low ; 
their  influence  on  the  children  of  the  harem  is 
most  deplorable.    The  Ezbekiah  Garden  con- 
fronts us  nearby  the  hotel.    It  was  formerly  a 
lake  surrounded  by  trees  and  habitations.     At 
the  present,  after  many  changes,  it  is  of  rec- 
tangular form,  with  corners  cut  off,  surround- 
ed by  an  iron  railing.    A  basin  with  swan,  and 
carefully     sanded     paths     with     strange    trees 
brought  from  the  interior  of  Africa  is  a  beauti- 
ful sight.     The  limpid    blue    sky  and  the  rays 
of  the  magnificent  eastern  sun  makes  it  an  at- 
tractive place  to  linger,  particularly  so  at  4:00 
p.  m.,  when  a  military  band  performs  its  Euro- 
pean repertoire.     Beer    shops,    restaurants    and 
photographic   pavilions   are    installed    in    and 
near  this  garden  ;  veiled  women,  men  in  silk 
gowns  of  various  colors,  mostly  blues,  roam 
about     with     the     most     perfect     ease.      Beau- 
tiful Egyptian  tents  were  erected  for  a  bazaar 
while  we  were  there.     No  one  can  appreciate, 
without  seeing  their  effective  display,  made  of 
sailcloth,  with  red,  yellow  and  blue  calico  in 
plain   colors,   appliqued    on    in    strange    hiero- 
glyphic  designs.     Rugs  were  on  the  ground 
and  tapestries  were  used  as  portieres,  while 
the  Turk  or  Egyptian  sat  in  the  doorway,  ap- 
parently indifferent  to  the  passerby.     To  visit 
Heliopolis,  we    took    a  victoria  and    an    expert 
dragoman.    We  passed  the  viceroy's  palace,  with 
its  lane  of    lemon  trees  and  the  well   cultivated 
plain  of  Metarrah,  covered  with  gardens.     We 

117 


stop  at  the  virgin's  tree,  where  Mary  and  the 
child  rested  in  their  flight  to  Egypt.  This,  with 
the  field  around  it,  is  watered  by  a  sakieh,  which 
draws  sweet  and  refreshing  water  from  the  bot- 
tom of  a  well.  With  the  cooling  draught,  we  are 
presented  with  a  tiny  bunch  of  flowers,  for  which 
we  return  a  few  piasters.  A  paling  surrounds 
Mary's  Sycamore,  under  whose  shade,  tradition 
says,  she  washed  the  infant's  clothes,  and  that 
wherever  a  drop  of  water  fell  a  Balsam  tree 
sprang  up.  All  that  remains  of  Heliopolis.  the 
city  of  the  sun,  is  the  obelisk  of  Usertesan.  Heli- 
opolis is  the  On  of  the  Hebrews.  It  was  here  the 
Bennonz,  Phoenix,  the  fabled  bird,  with  its  gold 
and  crimson  plumage,  without  a  mate,  came  from 
Arabia  every  five  hundred  years  to  expire,  and 
to  be  reborn  of  its  own  ashes  on  the  altar  of  the 
sun. 

I  left  my  companion  in  the  victoria,  and 
wended  my  way  alone  to  the  obelisk,  not  far 
distant.  It  may  be  he  preferred  to  contemplate 
on  Heliopolis'  past  glory,  as  he  was  fresh  from 
Yale's  classic  shade,  and  deep,  no  doubt,  in  its 
lore,  rather  than  touch  its  hieroglyphics.  To  see 
the  bees  so  thickly  settled  there  was  of  little 
satisfaction,  but  what  were  we  there  for  if  not 
to  touch,  taste  and  handle?  The  climatic  ef- 
fects will  preserve  this  wonderful  monument 
for  ages,  while  their  consorts  on  the  Thames 
and  in  New  York  Central  Park  already  show 
signs  of  decay. 

ii8 


The  ostrich  farm  was  a  more  enhvening 
scene.  One  thousand  of  these  ugly,  vicious 
birds  were  kept  in  an  enclosure,  the  fence 
surrounding  them  being  so  high  we  were 
obliged  to  seek  an  elevation  from  which  we 
could  look  down  upon  them.  They  are  most 
ungainly,  but  their  strut  is  indicative  of  vanity. 
To  probe  them,  as  some  did  through  an  open- 
ing in  the  gateway,  was  to  arouse  their  wrath, 
and  the  warning  was  soon  given  to  desist,  by 
the  care-keepers.  Many  of  the  eggs  were  emp- 
tied of  their  contents  and  for  sale.  Through- 
out the  land  morgues  are  crumbling  to  ruins, 
the  Arab  seemingly  powerless  to  repair  them, 
or  to  build  new  ones.  Cairo  is  built  from  the 
ruins  of  Heliopolis  and  Memphis. 

To  return  to  Cairo  by  the  Kooha  road  is  to 
meet  at  5  :oo  p.  m.  the  Khedive  and  suite  on 
their  return  from  Abdin  palace.  It  is  said  the 
Khedive  is  never  seen  to  smile;  we  can  testify 
that  he  did  not  smile  on  us,  although  we  rode 
parallel  with  him  that  day.  The  tramp  of  his 
attendant  cavalry  always  attracts  a  crowd.  We 
see,  as  we  drive  along,  the  donkeys  roll  with 
their  saddles  in  the  sand ;  swarms  of  naked 
soiled  children,  with  their  deafening  yell,  in- 
crease the  clamor  made  by  the  native  pipe  seller 
and  blower.  These  are  made  of  bamboo,  and, 
when  properly  handled,  give  out  a  noise  peculiar 
to  those  people.  Water-sellers,  with  filled  goat- 
skins on  their  shoulders,  leather  aprons  to  their 
knees,  striking  their  copper  goblets  one  against 

119 


the  other,  richly  caparisoned  mules,  bearing 
venerable  ]\Iohammedan  priests,  whose  gowns  are 
kissed  as  they  go  by — all  these  and  more  join  this 
medley  in  human  or  animal  form.  Traffic  is 
suddenly  stopped  by  a  long  string  of  camels 
coming,  laden  with  thick  pieces  of  timber,  rug- 
ged stones  or  enormous  bales  of  merchandise. 
They  walk  silently  in  the  dust  with  long  strides, 
waving  to  and  fro,  exhaling  an  insupportable 
odor.  Their  heavy,  incommodious  cargoes 
strike  right  and  left,  breaking  everything  before 
them.  Woe  betide  the  pedestrian,  who  does  not 
anticipate  their  coming,  and  prepare  to  skip. 
These  caravans  are  only  momentary  disturb- 
ances, then  all  is  righted  till  another  passes. 
Through  all  this  pandemonium  we  drive  to  the 
tombs  of  the  Caliphs,  the  independent  sover- 
eigns of  Egypt  from  the  ninth  to  the  twelfth 
century.  In  the  face  of  the  ruins  crumbhng 
slowly  beneath  the  action  of  centuries,  one  feels 
an  unutterable  melancholy.  Mosque  of  El 
Achraf-ynal  El  Ght)urs  is  near  the  tombs  of  the 
Caliphs,  their  courts  are  full  of  rubbish  and 
plants  and  brambles,  with  its  fountains  for  ablu- 
tions in  ruins.  These  mosques  contain  tombs 
and  stone  mausoleums.  We  pass  out  into  a 
dilapidated  village  of  low  mud  houses,  few 
shops,  with  fruits  to  sell,  camels  lying  down, 
asses  and  tattered  children  and  old  men.  We 
ascend  not  far  away  the  staircase  with  disjointed 
steps,  the  mosque  of  Karl  Bey.  The  interior 
court,  open  to  all  elements,  is  paved  with  mar- 

120 


ble  mosaics.  The  ceiling  of  the  mosque  is 
carved,  painted  and  gilded.  The  rose  windows, 
cut  in  massive  stone,  is  in  great  perfection,  but 
all  is  crumbling,  like  everything  else  in  the  east. 
The  tombs  of  the  Caliphs  we  overlook  from 
the  citadel,  where  we  listen  to  the  guide  who 
relates  the  daring  feats  of  the  Mamelukes.  To 
see  the  sun  set  from  this  point  is  one  of  the 
pleasures  that  Cairo  afifords.  Here  is  a  fortress, 
where  Ramises  II  detained  his  Assyrian  cap- 
tives, when  the  Roman  legion  under  Caesar  held 
Egypt.  The  vile,  stuffy  smells  that  greet  you 
on  entering  are  appalling,  and  the  ragged  chil- 
dren eaten  up  by  vermin,  and  afflicted  by  sore 
eyes  rub  against  you.  You  enter  the  Coptic 
church  of  the  Virgin  Mary ;  partitions  in  wood- 
work separate  three  naves.  Mother  of  pearl  and 
ivory  inlaid  work  decorate  the  interior,  but  it 
was  so  dark  the  beauties  were  lost  to  me,  but 
we  are  not  insensible  to  the  vile  uncleanliness, 
for  that  is  paramount.  We  are  taken  to  the 
banks  of  the  Nile,  shown  the  ancient  Nile  meter, 
and  the  exact  spot  where  Moses  was  found  in 
the  bulrushes.  From  all  this  we  turn  with  weary 
steps  to  the  university,  where  scholars  from  the 
extreme  north,  south,  and  those  who  scarcely 
know  from  whence  they  came,  are  here  to  study 
the  four  rites  taught  from  the  Koran.  They 
board  at  the  Mosque  and  also  receive  a  sm.all 
allowance  and  oil  for  their  lamps.  Gathered  to- 
gether in  circles,  holding  their  tablets  in  their 
hands,  lying  or  sitting  on  their  mats  covering 


121 


the  ground,  they  learn  by  heart  verses  from 
the  Koran,  which  they  recite  aloud  in  a  drawl- 
ing voice,  swinging  the  body,  as  is  peculiar 
to  the  Orientals.  A  special  fund  is  raised  from 
pious  fanatics  for  the  support  of  the  blind  who 
become  scholars,  no  less  fanatic  than  their 
teachers. 

Another  day  for  the  museums  at  Boulah  to 
be  taken  before,  and  after  going  up  the  Nile. 
From  its  terrace  the  views  are  splendid.  The 
supporting  walls  bathe  in  the  Nile,  where  mul- 
titudes of  vessels  lie  side  by  side.  Across  the 
desert  come  caravans  from  Abyssinia,  with  cof- 
fee and  incense  from  Arabia ;  pearls,  precious 
stones,  cassimeres  and  silks  from  India. 

In  dahabehis  from  Esneh  come  ivories, 
ostrich  feathers,  acacia  gum,  nitre  from  Kenner, 
boats  loaded  with  pottery  of  porous  earth,  in 
which  to  keep  the  water  of  the  Nile  in  amphorae 
(large  earthen  jugs)  in  all  sizes.  Edfou  sends 
its  pipes,  vases  of  red  clay  and  black.  Barges 
filled  with  indigo,  cotton  and  barley,  dahabehis 
of  carpets  and  woolen  stuff s  with  flagons  of  rose 
v.^ater.  From  the  North  come  rice,  maize  and 
Syrian  tobacco;  draperies  from  Aleppo,  Smyrna 
and  Damascus ;  dried  grapes  from  the  mountains 
of  Karamania ;  soap  from  the  isles  of  the  Archi- 
pelagos, and  in  the  midst  of  all  this  enterprise, 
donkey  boys  yell,  and  camels  make  their  un- 
earthly cry,  while  I,  who  am  mounted  on  a 
donkey,  scarcely  look  to  the  right  or  left,  lest  I 
go  over  "Abraham  Lincoln's"  head. 


122 


We  have  left  the  museum  and  are  on  the  road 
leading-  to  Cairo,  the  Champs  Elysee  of  this  cap- 
ital city.  Tuesdays  and  Sundays  the  gay  world 
is  met  on  this  thoroughfare.  We  overlook  the 
port  of  old  Cairo  to  see  all  we  have  described, 
besides  dahabehis  from  Nubia  and  Soudan 
with  goods  and  passengers.  The  ferry  passing 
between  Bedrashen  and  old  Cairo  is  full  to 
overflowing.  Men,  women,  Bedouin  negroes, 
asses,  camels  overburdened  with  merchandise, 
cages  of  fowls,  and  fruit  in  koufifas ;  people  ges- 
ticulating and  grumbling  in  an  inconceivable 
manner — all  this  confusion  we  pass  through  to 
reach  our  hotel  to  dream  of  our  journey  to  the 
pyramids  the  following  day.  Our  dragoman 
secures  an  open  carriage  that  seats  four  per- 
sons, besides  the  coachman  and  himself  on  the 
coachmen's  seat.  We  are  told  that  twenty  years 
were  consumed  in  building  the  great  pyramid, 
costing  600  talents  (the  Hebrew  weight  94  lbs.) 
in  Hebrew  money;  100,000  men  were  employed 
on  the  works,  and  were  changed  every  three 
months.  They  say  nothing  changes  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Nile;  the  Fellah  has  always  bent  the 
spine  to  the  stick.  Lives  innumerable  were 
sacrificed  by  the  Pharaohs  in  building  for  them- 
selves, and  others,  tombs  that  time  could  not 
change,  and  where  thieves  could  not  break 
through  and  steal.  How  all  earthly  plans  are 
frustrated.  Now  the  hidden  places  of  the  pyra- 
mids are  laid  bare.  The  museum  at  Boulah 
contains  the  mummied  forms  of  the  builders,  and 

123 


the  entrances  to  their  sepulchres  are  open  to 
bats  and  men.  I  did  not  ascend  the  pyramids 
farther  than  to  look  into  these  excavations.  This 
effort  was  most  exhausting,  even  when  assisted 
by  these  athletic  Arabs,  and  the  demand  for 
backsheesh  was  overpowering.  The  sheik,  un- 
der whose  patronage  these  coolies  work,  stands 
looking  on  without  intervention  until  your  dra- 
goman is  forced  to  appeal  to  him  to  quell  the 
disturbance,  but  we  could  see  that  he  berated 
those  who  were  delinquent  in  making  their  de- 
mands good.  The  sphinx  near  by  can  be  reached 
either  by  camels,  who  stand  in  readiness  to  con- 
vey you,  or  you  can  walk.  We  prefer  the  lat- 
ter rather  than  to  have  another  bombardment 
for  backsheesh,  but  waiving,  as  we  did,  all  as- 
sistance but  our  dragoman,  we  were  followed  by 
these  wretched  persecutors.  There  is  in  this 
colossal  figure  a  dignity — an  air  of  mystery.  It 
is  with  difficulty  that  the  sands  of  the  desert  are 
kept  from  enveloping  it,  but  the  climatic  effect 
is  wonderful;  it  seems  destined  for  time  and 
eternity. 

Friday  is  the  day  for  religious  service  with 
the  howling  dervishes.  One  never  cares  for  a 
repetition.  Those  who  take  active  part  in  the 
ceremony  are  men  whose  regular  features  are 
set  off  by  a  tall,  round,  sugar-loafed  hat,  sur- 
rounded at  its  base  with  a  turban  wound  very 
tight,  clothed  in  long,  flowing  gowns,  very  full, 
open  in  front.  A  second  gown  underneath  of 
mauve  silk  shows  a  blue  jacket  and  orange-col- 

124 


ored  trousers.  One  carries  a  flute,  and  now  and 
then  a  soft,  ethereal  note  is  heard.  Around  this 
musician  are  others  with  their  instruments.  In 
a  semi-circle,  with  arms  falling  at  their  sides, 
stand  at  least  thirty  dervishes,  their  long  gowns 
of  different  colors  fastened  tight  around  their 
waists  with  a  red  silk  sash,  red,  white  and  green 
turbans,  and  linen  or  woolen  caps.  Their  hair 
is  of  extraordinary  length,  dyed  with  henna,  and 
falling  to  their  knees.  At  a  signal  from  their 
leader,  all  uncover  their  heads  at  the  same  mo- 
ment, and,  as  they  bend  .balancing  themselves 
slowly  at  first,  with  each  jerk  pronouncing  the 
word  "Allah!"  This  swineing  motion  becomes 
by  degrees  rapid;  voices  burst  out;  one  hears 
the  piercing  note  of  the  flute,  and  the  ring  of 
the  cymbals.  The  sepulchral  roll  of  the  Dara- 
bonkas  make  the  flesh  creep,  and  finally  ends  in 
a  delirious  exaltation.  -  They  assume  frightful 
contortions;  their  bodies  bend;  the  hair  whips 
the  air  and  the  cry  of  "Allah!  Allah!"  pene- 
trates bone  and  marrow.  After  a  while  their 
ways  become  more  regular,  voices  clearer,  and 
they  seem  again  to  possess  their  faculties. 

The  great  artery  of  trade  cuts  bazaar  quar- 
ters into  the  old  Frank  quarters  where  east  and 
west  mixes.  Living  side  by  side,  the  occupants 
of  these  shops  speak,  when  opening  the  shut- 
ters in  the  morning,  and  when  closing  them  in 
the  evening,  and  frequently  offer  each  other  tea 
and  cigarettes  through  the  day,  and  that  termi- 
nates all  connection.    A  Babel  street,  dealers  in 

125 


French  novelties;  an  American  dentist;  a  bar- 
ber, a  Jewish  money  changer  side  by  side, 
Avhile  on  foot  in  the  roadway  divers  people 
from  diverse  nations  throng — few  groups 
but  a  constant  movement.  Among  them  are 
loaded  camels,  people  on  horses,  donkeys,  mules, 
victorias  drawn  by  Arab  steeds  always  on  the 
trot.  The  guards  driving  to  one  side  the  crowd 
by  blows  in  the  face  Vvith  their  sticks,  water  car- 
riers, soldiers,  in  fact,  everybodv.  hustling, 
bustling  in  search  of  something.  In  the  bazaar 
of  Khan  Khabiel  we  found  copper  utensils  of  all 
forms  and  sizes,  coffee  pots,  perfume  burners, 
ewers,  chandeliers  for  mosques,  Persian  caskets 
chiseled  to  perfection,  articles  of  rhinoceros  horn, 
Circassian  and  Saracen  steel  armor,  inlaid  with 
gold,  tables  of  mother  of  pearl  and  ivory.  A 
dealer  in  old  clothes  sat  at  the  angle  of  the 
street  playing  a  game  of  chance  with  his  neigh- 
bor. We  see  Koran  letters  in  green  on  black 
ground  hung  in  black  frames  standing  against 
the  wall,  while  the  owner  sits  dreaming  near  by, 
apparently  deriving  much  comfort  from  his  kief. 
The  streets  are  narrow,  often  hedged  from 
houses  by  a  trellis  work,  fashioned  from  palm 
leaves.  The  sun  penetrates  in  spots.  Through 
these  apertures  one  sees  the  clear  blue  sky  and 
black  kites,  vultures  and  hawks  describing  cir- 
cles, and  at  intervals  wild  geese  from  the  notth 
go  flying  by.  The  roads  are  covered  with  dust 
which,  when  it  rains,  becomes  almost  impassable. 
We    see    coming    towards    us    women    accom- 

126 


panied  by  slave  bathing  attendants,  going 
to  a  public  bath  house  reserved  for  females. 
They  meet  by  appointment,  burn  perfumed  aloes, 
etc.,  send  for  singers  and  treat  themselves  to 
pastry  and  sweets. 

The  roofs  of  carpet  bazaars,  half  covered  with 
mats  and  shreds  of  cloth,  permit  the  soft  light  to 
filter  through,  and  upon  the  sacred  prayer  rug 
throws  a  mellowed  light.  Piles  of  camels'  bags, 
some  brilliant  in  color,  with  mountains  of  rugs 
from  all  parts  of  the  east;  those  of  the  velvety 
silken  texture  with  blended  colors  come  from 
Persia.  A  coarser  kind  of  many  stripes  comes 
from  Rabah,  Tunis  and  Kurdistan.  Long  squares 
with  ground  of  soft  blue  are  used  by  the  Mo- 
hammedans in  their  devotion  and  are  made  in 
Smyrna  and  Bokhara.  The  gem  polisher  sits 
within  the  doorway  of  his  shop,  with  wheels 
and  implements,  whereon  he  perfects  his  work. 
We  are  interested  in  the  Persian  turquoise,  the 
most  desirable  to  be  purchased.  We  buy,  we 
think,  flawless  ones  of  exquisite  shades. 

The  Ramhadin,  or  season  of  fasting,  by  the 
^loslems,  continues  one  month,  and  during  that 
time  they  neither  taste  nor  smell  food  or  to- 
bacco between  sunrise  and  sunset.  After  this 
vile  durance,  we  were  told,  their  appetites  can 
scarcely  be  appeased,  nor  their  tempers  curbed. 

The  weddings  in  December  and  January  are 
in  rule  and,  by  applying  for  an  invitation,  your 
dragoman  as  a  great  favor  to  his  lady,  can  and 
will   obtain   one  or   more,    for   which   you    must 

127 


compensate  him.  besides  defraying  all  expenses, 
and  giving  flowers  and  presents.  You  must  expect 
])iit  little  less  expenditure  than  at  our  own  wed- 
dings in  our  own  country,  and  but  little  to 
repay  you.  On  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  De- 
cember (1895),  Christmas  trees  were  on  exhibi- 
tion at  the  hotel  for  the  benefit  of  the  guests;  the 
ladies  only  received  presents.  The  room  was  most 
brilliant  with  electric  lights  and  three  large 
trees  most  artistically  decorated  with  bright 
balls,  cornucopias  and  trinkets.  A  card  was 
given  each  lady  and  the  number  thereon  drew  a 
prize.  My  first  was  a  box  of  candy  and  a  small 
toilet  article.  Not  eating  candy,  I  presented  both 
articles  and  asked  Mr.  Bailey,  our  host,  for  an- 
other chance,  which  drew  me  a  white  satin  sofa 
cushion  cover.  For  a  time  we  almost  forgot  we 
were  so  far  from  home.  There  were  so  many 
familiar  faces  gathered  around  those  trees,  be- 
sides no  limit  to  others  who  believed  that  the 
"Coming  of  Christ"  meant  good  gifts  to  men. 
The  30th  of  December  my  brother  and  his  family 
left  me  to  return  to  America.  I  was  over-per- 
suaded to  go  up  the  Nile,  a  trip  I  most  reluct- 
antly made.  As  I  felt  the  depression  of  the  Egyp- 
tian atmosphere,  added  to  my  depressed  condi- 
tion from  the  medicine  taken  (prescribed  by 
a  missionary  doctor  on  board  the  steamer 
"Pekin")  throughout  my  Indian  journey  that 
I  was  unfit  to  travel  any  longer — and  I  had 
no  desire  to  die  so  far  from  home — the  pres- 
sure against  my  own  judgment  outweighed  in 

128 


the  balance,  and  I  left  Cairo  on  the  steamer 
"Ramises  III"  at  9:15  o'clock  A.  M.  December 
31st,  1895.  The  room  assigned  to  me  by  Thomas 
Cook  &  Co.  was  No.  63,  on  the  upper  deck. 
I  had  no  room  mate,  much  to  my  joy.  This 
was  my  "mascot"  from  the  time  I  boarded 
the  steamer  at  Vancouver — with  but  one  ex- 
ception, and  that  was  on  the  steamer  "Pekin" 
from  Columbo  to  Calcutta  v.here  I  had  a  dear 
old  lady  from  Australia  (Mrs.  Champion) 
share  my  cabin.  We  had  seventy  first-class  pas- 
sengers. Among  them  were  Mrs.  John  A.  Logan, 
Dr.  B.,  of  Brooklyn,  Miss  Paul,  Miss  Koon  and 
Miss  Dousman,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  George  Hale  and 
his  sister,  Mrs.  Mathews,  Conan  Doyle,  wife  and 
sister,  and  from  England  we  had  the  knighted 
organist  of  Westminster  Abbey  and  Lady 
Campbell  and  daughter,  while  others  I  could 
mention  to  whom  I  became  attached  were 
Mrs.  Allis  and  daughter,  of  Milwaukee,  and 
Mrs.  Wilbur  and  daughter,  from  Flatbush, 
Long  Island.  I  must  not  fail  to  speak  of  Mr. 
Osterburg,  the  Swedish  consul  in  Cairo,  who 
made  himself  most  agreeable.  Our  dragomen 
were  Richard  and  Claudius,  the  former  a 
Syrian,  the  latter  I  saw  less  of,  but  some  of 
the  passengers,  who  became  interested  in  him, 
visited  in  person  his  little  wife,  about  fourteen 
years  old,  who  had  a  mud  hut  in  the  vicinity  of 
one  of  the  stopping  places  on  the  Nile. 

After  lunch  was  served  on  our  first  day  out 
we  made  our  first  landing  at  Bedrashead,  site 


129 


of  Memphis  and  Sakkarah,  where  we  saw  the 
colossal  statue  of  Ramises  II,  lying  prostrate, 
in  readiness  to  be  transferred  to  some  less  fa- 
vored spot.  I  had  a  fine  mount,  and  Richard 
stuck  close  to  "my  lady"  (you  must  remember 
that  much  respect  is  paid  to  the  aged  in  the 
Orient).  The  temple  of  Ptah,  the  step  pyra- 
mid, p3^ramid  of  Teta,  pyramid  of  Pepi  ist, 
and  the  Ape's  Mausoleum,  were  shown  us. 
This  last  was  most  interesting.  Magnesium 
lights  of  the  guides  enabled  us  to  distinguish 
in  these  dark,  subterranean  passages,  where 
3,700  years  ago,  naked  foot-prints  left  on  lay- 
ers of  sand,  placed  in  the  corners  of  these 
mortuary  chambers,  testify  to  a  primitive  ap- 
pearance. Here  people  made  superhuman  ef- 
fort to  hide  their  burial  places  for  all  ages  to 
come,  to  prevent  rude  hands  from  pulling 
their  bones  apart  until,  according  to  their  re- 
ligion, their  souls  would  again  return  to  their 
well  preserved  bodies — to  enjoy  Nirvana. 

We  saw  the  tomb  of  "Thi,"  Necropolis  of 
Saharah ;  also  Marrek's  house.  To  the  latter 
is  due  much  credit  for  his  perseverance  in  un- 
earthing and  protecting  the  contents  of  these 
buried  ruins.  My  first  donkey  ride  was  a  suc- 
cess, not  that  I  enjoyed  it,  but  owing  to  a 
most  considerate  donkey  boy,  who  walked  at 
the  side  of  the  beast  (instead  of  the  rear)  and 
allowed  me  to  hold  in  my  left  hand  the  reins 
and  my  right  arm  around  his  swarthy  neck. 
Thus,  I  took  all  those  excursions  on  the  Nile 

130 


without  an  accident,  till  I  gave  myself  the  title 
of  "the  lady  of  a  fond  embrace,"  while  others, 
more  daring  and  perhaps  more  dainty  of  touch, 
were  more  than  once  thrown  over  the  don- 
key's head,  suffering  from  bruises  that  took 
more  than  a  day  to  heal.  Immediately  on 
reaching  the  steamer,  at  4:30  p.  m.,  tea  was 
served  on  deck.  I  was  more  than  weary  and 
so  sore  I  could  scarcely  taste  of  my  dinner, 
but,  thanks  to  a  kind  Providence,  I  was  by 
morning  on  deck,  but  that  day  we  made  no  ex- 
cursions. The  following  day  we  landed  at 
Beni-Hassan,  visiting  the  Rock  Tombs,  con- 
sisting of  chambers,  shaft  and  corridors,  where 
the  mummJes  were  once  placed,  but  now  all 
are  swept  and  garnished.  All  that  remains 
to  tell  the  tale,  are  the  writings  and  sculptur- 
ing on  the  walls.  The  scribe  has  taken  pre- 
caution that  he  who  runs  may  read.  The  se- 
ries of  bas-reliefs  is  a  biography  in  stone  with 
illustrations.  The  entire  life  of  a  man  is  writ- 
ten there.  I  must  quote  from  a  writer  a  few 
lines  that  have  impressed  me:  "It  is  said  that 
man's  head  becomes  smaller  every  day,  his 
muscle  and  chest  enlarged;  animal  strength 
develops  at  the  expense  of  the  brain,  which 
diminishes  in  proportion.  The  law  of  the 
strongest  is  the  law  of  human  species,  one- 
half  of  which  is  seeking  to  destroy  the  other." 
These  scenes  depicted  on  the  crumbling  ruins, 
enriched  by  color,  are  strikingly  realistic,  built 
partly  during  the  life  time,  and  often  after  the 

131 


death  of  the  person.  These  give  the  best  pos- 
sible insight  into  the  Hfe  of  the  Egyptians  of 
that  period.  From  past  ages  to  the  present 
hour  are  men  building  their  own  monuments, 
immortalizing,  if  possible,  their  virtues.  How 
well  the  foundation  should  be  laid,  that  the 
principles,  overlapping  each  other,  may  make 
a  fitting  example  for  future  generations. 

There  are  no  new  cities  built  of  any  magni- 
tude; the  new  would  only  depopulate  the  old. 
From  Memphis,  reduced  to  a  state  of  quarry,  is 
built  Alexandria ;  from  Heliopolis  we  have  Cairo. 
In  passing  the  limestone  cliffs  we  experience 
cold  and  wind ;  the  mummied  crocodile  pits  we 
pass,  and  stop  at  Aizril.  Peddlers  besiege  the 
vessel,  and  the  vociferating  yell  was  kept  up 
until  long  after  io:oo  p.  m.,  the  hour  when  all 
lights  in  the  cabin  are  shut  ofif.  At  Aizul, 
we  buy  Nubian  veils,  which  are  made  by  em- 
broideries in  gold  stars  on  black  and  white 
heavy  netting,  and  are  most  becoming  when 
worn  by  Nubian  women.  Soudanese  embroid- 
ery is  thrust  upon  us,  but  to  all  we  turn 
a  deaf  ear  and  again  mount  donkeys  to 
visit  the  bazaars.  It  was  market  day ;  the 
roads  dusty;  long  lines  of  camels  with  their 
undulating  necks  and  inhuman  cry,  impeded 
our  way  and  shocked  our  nerves.  What 
vagueness  in  the  stare  of  a  camel ;  what  great, 
sad  eyes ;  walking  slowly  with  their  heavy 
burdens,  urged  on  by  the  voice  and  gesture 
of    sober-looking    Bedouins,    perched    upon    the 

132 


beast.  Women  with  ravaged  features  and 
with  soiled  garments  pass  us,  with  babies 
seated  astride  of  their  shoulders;  little  girls 
clutching  their  gowns,  with  leather  or  silver 
amulets  on  their  neck  or  suspended  between 
their  eyes;  the  flowing  chemise,  of  crude  col- 
ors, mostly  blue,  their  heads  bound  in  a  turban 
of  muslin,  their  black  tresses  flying  in  the  wind. 
The  arms  of  these  children  of  the  desert 
are  encircled  in  bracelets,  some  of  which 
we  purchased  with  a  few  annas.  They  are 
gilded  and  tarnished,  perhaps  from  lack  of 
usage.  A  sad  smile  seems  to  lurk  on  their 
faces,  casting  a  gleam  in  their  dark  eyes,  and 
they  will  follow  for  a  great  distance  your  don- 
key, offering  you  their  poor,  little,  ragged  dolls 
for  a  backsheesh ;  the  very  touch  of  them 
would  be  pollution.  You  cannot  resist,  if  an 
anna  is  within  reach,  of  throwing  it  to  them 
and  receiving  in  return  a  glimpse  of  their  pear- 
ly teeth  between  their  red  lips  in  their  at- 
tempts at  a  smile.  The  Arab  men,  wrapped  in 
their  burnoose,  look  on  mechanically,  turning 
their  rosewood  beads  in  their  hands.  Their  yel- 
low dogs,  with  pointed  muzzles,  prowl  around 
restlessly,  as  if  they  would  cry  out  with  joy 
if  a  bone  was  thrown  them.  On  passing 
through  the  bazaars  I  spied  a  Nubian  veil, 
and  to  inspect  it  within  a  doorway,  I  was 
obliged  to  dismount ;  not  being  satisfied  with 
work  or  quality,  I  attempted  to  remount,  with 
the  assistance  of  my    diminutive    donkey    boy, 

133 


but  alas,  we  were  not  equal  to  the  feat;  when, 
from  a  distance,  came  a  red  coat,  an  English 
soldier,  who  threw  me  on  the  saddle  and 
demanded  a  backsheesh.  Is  begging  con- 
tagious, or  is  their  need  so  great?  Over 
the  tranquil  scenes  creep  the  cold  shadows  of 
night,  with  their  unhealthy,  impenetrable 
gloom ;  lights  of  the  steamer  are  extinguished ; 
the  water  shadoufs,  with  lean  bullocks  for 
their  motive  power,  with  hanging  fetlocks, 
conducted  by  a  little  fellahin,  gave  a  sharp, 
hollow,  grinding  sound  as  the  brake  wheels 
were  made  to  revolve.  These  brake  wheels  set 
others  in  motion,  which  in  their  turn  start  still 
others  at  the  extremity  of  the  spokes  on  the 
water  circles,  where  jars  of  baked  clay  were 
fastened  with  cords  made  of  palm  fiber.  The 
latter,  in  their  constant  rotation,  scooped  up 
water,  pouring  it  into  basins,  from  which  ran 
gutters,  dug  at  right  angles  in  the  earth,  and 
spread  like  silver  threads  through  this  thirsty 
land.  These  shadoufs  are  placed  at  intervals 
along  the  Nile  and  from  its  beneficent  waters 
the  desert  is  made  to  bloom  as  the  rose. 

The  early  mornings  are  bright,  but  cold. 
As  we  proceed  up  the  Nile  the  noonday  sun 
feels  uncomfortable,  but  invariably  the  nights 
are  cold.  Then  it  is  that  the  awnings  are 
closely  drawn  around  the  upper  deck,  where 
a  piano,  tables  and  chairs  are  placed  for  the 
pleasure  and  convenience  of  the  guests,  while 
flags  of  different  nations  brighten   and  enliven 

134 


the  scene,  festooned  on  the  canvas  that  wraps 
us  in  from  the  prevailing  miasma.  An  even- 
ing on  the  Nile  steamer  may  not  be  irksome, 
although  our  steamer  ties  up  at  nightfall.  The 
lack  of  motion  is  made  up  by  music  and  danc- 
ing and  pleasant  intercourse.  A  few  moments 
after  dinner  I  would  retire  to  the  saloon  or 
library  room,  where  pens  and  paper  were  pro- 
vided for  the  guests.  There  I  would  jot  down 
in  my  journal  my  transactions  of  the  day  and 
write  home  if  we  were  within  postal  quarters. 
We  never  made  excursions  on  the  Sabbath 
day ;  our  trips  were  so  arranged  by  Cook,  who 
had  our  boat  imder  his  rules,  that  all  who 
cared  for  rest  might  enjoy  it.  We  disembarked 
at  Dendarah,  where  we  spent  two  hours  in 
the  early  morning.  As  we  recall  these  days 
on  the  Nile,  with  Richard  in  his  Oriental  robes 
of  lovely  colors,  fully  conscious  of  his  good 
looks,  taking  his  position  between  the  extended 
tables  of  the  dining  room  at  the  close  of  the 
meal  and  there  make  known  the  plan  for  the 
next  day's  excursion.  "Ladies  and  Gentle- 
men !"  was  generally  followed  by  an  audible 
smile,  the  guests  knowing  full  well  what  was 
to  follow — breakfast  at  the  early  hour  of  seven, 
a  ride  from  five  to  fifteen  miles  either  by 
donkey  or  chair,  with  a  set  speech  when  we 
arrived  at  tombs  or  temples;  but  we  had  come 
to  see,  why  not  muster  up  courage  for  still  an- 
other prolonged  agony?  I  found  books  in  the 
library,   most  entertaining    when    off    duty,    by 

135 


Mrs.  Edwards  and  Charles  Dudley  Warner, 
together  with  the  book  furnished  by  Cook  to 
each  purchaser  of  a  passage  ticket.  This  at- 
tempt to  post  up  on  what  I  saw,  and  what  was 
yet  in  store  for  me,  precluded  much  sociabil- 
ity, of  which  I  am  fully  aware  with  such  pleas- 
ant people  as  we  had  on  board,  was  my  loss.  I 
denied  myself  much,  but  I  was  unable  to  cope 
with  both  to  any  great  extent,  but  I  shall  long 
recall  with  pleasure  the  few  hours  I  gave  myself 
in  this  delightful  recreation. 

Our  arrival  at  Luxor  by  sunset  was  well 
timed.  The  beautiful  rays  of  the  departing  god 
seemed  to  throw  over  all  the  surroundings  a  halo. 
We  knew  an  early  breakfast  meant  early  to  bed, 
which  command  I  was  not  slow  in  obeying. 
At  9  :oo  a.  m.  we  took  donkeys  for  Karnak, 
passing  through  the  village  on  a  market  day, 
where  each  man  squatted  before  his  salable 
articles  spread  upon  the  ground  under  the 
shade  of  some  umbrageous  tree.  Through  a 
long  road,  lined  at  intervals,  were  the  remains 
of  the  Sphinx,  of  which  we  have  so  often 
read.  The  ruins  are  most  imposing,  excava- 
tions were  still  being  made.  The  Nile's  in- 
undations are  fast  making  inroads,  under- 
mining the  foundations,  especially  at  Luxor, 
vvhich  temple  is  located  so  near  the  bank.  We 
linger  and  gaze  on  the  stupendous  work,  even 
in  its  crumbling,  tottering  condition  it  is  one 
of  the  wonders  of  the  age.  We  find  the 
Scarabaeus   are   bonr^ht   here   to   an   advantage. 

136 


The  Arabs,  however,  have  no  scruples  in  sell- 
ing false  beetles  for  the  genuine  ones  that  are 
sometimes  taken  from  the  tombs  in  excavat- 
ing. They  are  becoming  more  and  more  rare. 
Mummies,  so  diminutive,  made  of  metal  or 
plaster,  Stela,  a  small  column,  having  neither 
base  or  capital,  which  are  sold  as  the  genuine 
antique,  is  manufactured  almost  within  sight. 
One  of  the  amusing  scenes  on  shipboard  is  to 
see  purchasers  comparing  these  articles ;  their 
ignorance  of  their  value  is  laughable.  The 
beetle,  or  Scarabaeus,  is  a  symbol  with  this  an- 
cient people  of  "eternal  duration."  We  are 
told  it  lays  its  eggs  near  the  shores  of  the 
Nile,  afterwards  to  roll  them  through  the  dust 
and  sand  to  a  safe  place  of  deposit,  thus  pro- 
viding for  a  perpetuation  of  their  species.  I 
am  not  an  admirer  of  the  beetle,  consequently 
bought  no  reminders  of  the  bug.  I  did  buy 
here  a  string  of  red  cornelian  beads,  not  for 
their  value  but  as  good  specimens.  The  trip 
to  the  tombs  of  the  kings,  most  laborious  of 
all,  I  declined  to  take.  I  did  not  feel  I  was 
able,  but  by  rem.aining  alone  on  board  of  the 
steam.er  was  like  choosing  between  two  evils. 
The  days  when  the  vessel  is  deserted  the  crew 
go  through  a  systematic  house  cleaning  pro- 
cess.  Truly,  there  is  not  a  dry  place  for  the 
sole  of  your  foot.  My  only  safety  was  in 
bed,  but  even  there  intrusions  were  frequent. 
Like  all  Oriental  workmen,  they  sway  the 
body    and    keep    time  to  the   scrub  brush   and 

137 


broom  with  their  voices,  in  a  monotonous  wail 
of  Allah!  Allah!  After  some  six  to  eight 
hours  it  grows  a  trifle  irksome,  as  it  is  inces- 
sant, so  that  I  quite  resolved  before  the  day 
was  over  that  tombs  were  pleasant  places  to 
visit  and  donkeys  delightful  animals  upon 
which  to  ride.  When  a  half-hour's  ride  was 
suggested,  the  next  day,  to  the  temple  of 
"Rameses  the  Great"  and  tomb  known  as  "35," 
I  did  not  remain  on  deck,  but  on  the  contrary 
wandered  through  the  Judgment  Hall  of 
Osiris,  and  through  the  temple  of  Medinah 
Kaboo;  also  inspected  a  small  temple  of 
"Thotmas  III,"  passing  the  "Colons"  on  our 
way  to  the  small  boats,  to  which  we  were  car- 
ried through  the  water  in  the  arms  of  natives. 
We  lay  at  Luxor  three  days,  leaving  at  1 1  :oo 
a.  m.  the  fourth  morning  after  our  arrival.  We 
stopped  at  Esneh,  where  another  temple  was 
on  exhibition,  and  proceeded  to  Edfoo,  where 
we  tied  up  for  the  night.  There  we  saw  really 
a  wonderful  temple,  fresh  from  the  hands  of 
the  excavators.  On  the  12th  of  January  we 
arrived  at  Assouan,  at  4:00  p.  m.,  and  small 
boats  were  brought  alongside  the  steamer  for 
those  who  wished  to  visit  the  "Elephantine 
caves."  Not  to  see  it  would  have  been  just 
the  thing  you  should  not  have  missed.  And 
again  we  buckled  on  the  armor  and  struck  out 
direct  from  the  shoulder.  The  sail  around 
the  island  was  an  agreeable  pastime,  but  the 
Arabs  clamoring    for    backsheesh    and    for    the 

138 


sale  of  their  beads,  were  beyond  human  en- 
durance. I  felt  almost  murderous.  I  bought 
a  few  strings  of  beads,  and  for  days,  when- 
ever I  touched  them,  each  one  seemed  to  cry 
aloud :  backsheesh !  backsheesh !  We  went 
from  Annan  to  Philae  by  train;  and  what  a 
train !  No  provision  whatever  for  the  com- 
fort of  the  traveler.  If  by  chance  a  seat  was 
given  you,  you  were  in  luck;  if  none  was  se- 
cured, "you  beat  the  bush"  all  the  way  through 
the  desert  sands.  The  distance  is  not  great. 
In  a  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  we  are 
on  the  spot  which  artists  have  sought  and 
many  have  longed  for  and  died  without  the  sight. 
We  lunch  in  among  the  ruins,  and  are  then 
led  into  the  interior  of  the  temple  as  it  now 
stands,  falling  and  fallen.  Crowds  of  little 
Arab  children  offer  their  services  as  guides, 
and  I  recall,  with  a  sense  of  pathetic  pleasure, 
Mr.  George  Hale,  with  his  crown  of  grey 
hair,  being  led  by  one  of  these  little  girls. 
"December  and  May" — old  age  and  infancy. 
She  was  not  over  five  years  old,  poorly  clad, 
with  her  silver  amulet  on  a  leather  string 
around  her  neck,  and  barefooted.  In  her  hand 
she  carried  a  Nile  fly  brush,  with  which  she 
would  gently  attempt  to  brush  off  from  Mr. 
Hale  any  invader,  and  in  the  same  breath 
would  whisk  it  with  a  vengeance  in  the  face 
of  any  of  her  comrades  who  sought  to  take  her 
charge  from  her.  It  was  an  amusing  scene. 
Many     purchase     from     these     children     their 

X39 


amulet.  I  could  but  wonder  if  they  were  pun- 
ished on  returning  to  their  homes  for  having 
parted  with  their  talisman,  which  are  religious- 
ly placed  upon  them  in  childhood.  We  now 
return  to  our  boats.  We  are  to  skirt  the  first 
cataract  of  the  Nile.  We  are  divided  into 
groups,  and  small  boats  are  provided  for  each 
party.  With  fear  and  trembling  we  embark, 
but  confiding  in  the  Arab  pilot,  who  seldom 
fails  in  the  work  assigned  him,  we  soon  regain 
our  equilibrium.  To  me  it  was  not  as  perilous 
as  the  descent  of  Lachine  Rapids,  in  the  St. 
Lawrence  River,  nor  more  exciting.  That 
everlasting  wail  of  Allah !  Allah !  was  kept  up 
until  we  landed  near  our  Rameses  III,  and  un- 
til we  had  filled  well  the  bag  with  piasters 
that  was  handed  around.  We  were  not  able 
to  disembark.  As  I  hastened  alone  to  the 
gang  plank  of  our  river  home,  I  saw  Mrs.  John 
A.  Logan,  whose  boat  had  preceded  ours,  with 
her  head  of  crowning  glory,  stretched  from 
the  low  windovi^  of  her  cabin  and  in  her  hand 
was  the  "Red,  white  and  blue"  unfurled  to  the 
Nile  zephyrs.  I  thought  of  Barbara  Frietchie, 
and  exclaimed:  "Take  in  your  flag!"  That 
night  there  was  a  jollification  on  board,  for 
the  day  following  we  were  to  begin  our  de- 
scent of  the  Nile.  We  took  on  board  many 
passengers  who  had  gone  up  on  the  previous 
trip  of  the  Rameses  III,  and  gone  beyond  to 
the  second  and  third  cataract  and  had  returned 
to    Assuan    for    the    downward    trip.      Among 

X40 


these  were  the  widow  of  Major  General  Jed  Bax- 
ter, of  Washmgton,  D.  C,  and  also  Mrs.  Stroud, 
of  Philadelphia.  Mrs.  Logan  brought  Mrs.  Bax- 
ter to  me,  and  introduced  her.  "Can  this  be 
my  Mrs.  Baxter?"  I  said,  and  she  replied: 
"And  this  my  Mrs,  Hunt,  of  whom  dear  Sen- 
ator Morrill  has  so  often  spoken  ?" 

We  were    mutually    bound    together    bv    one 
common   friend,   who   had,  by  his  praise,   made 
us  friends  without  ever  having  met  before.     We 
vv'ere  no   longer   strangers.     We  stopped   again 
at  Luxor.     There  I  had  time,  before  the  night 
shades  gathered  around  us,  to  call  at  the  hotel 
Luxor,    where  a  gentleman    with  an  attack    of 
malarial    fever    had    been   transferred    on    our 
upward  trip.      His    wife  and    daughter    I    had 
become  much   interested  in.     They  were    from 
the  state  of  Maine,  and  we  had  mutual  friends. 
They   were  glad  to  see    me    again,    and    were 
feeling   most    depressed    in    their   isolation,     but 
were  buoyant   with  the  hope  that  the  husband 
and    father    would    soon    be  able    to   be    taken 
back  to  Cairo.     They  had  been  able  to   secure 
a  trained  nurse,  and  a  good  physician      I  think 
Luxor    is  a  military  post.      Many    of  the  pas- 
sengers improved  the  shining  hours  in  revisit- 
ing   the    bazaars    and    by    moonlight    the    gay, 
light-hearted  and  free  among  our  young  folks 
went  again  to  see   the    ruins    of    Karnak.      We 
bought    many    photographs    here,    which    wer6 
most    satisfactory.      We    next    visited     Keneh, 
where  the  jugs  and    gargoulets  are  made,   for 

141 


the  Nile  water.  The  factories  are  near  by  and 
many  purchased  these  porous  amphorae,  hop- 
ing that  in  their  own  homes  the  water  poured 
in  them  might  come  out  as  dehciously  cool  as 
did  the  water  of  the  Nile. 

We  stop  at  Dirneh  and  Ballianah,  but  at 
Abydos  we  linger  longer,  where  we  take  a  seven- 
mile  ride  to  the  temple  of  Seti,  finding  on  those 
sculptured  walls  much  to  admire.  We  lunched 
again  in  the  ruins,  and  having  no  desire  to  eat, 
I  fed  through  the  iron-barred  gate  my  share  to 
the  poor,  wretched  Arab  children  that  swarmed 
around.  I  hate  to  recall  these  poor,  down-trod- 
den people.  Is  life  worth  living  to  them?  What 
I  declined  to  eat,  they  devoured  with  such  vo- 
raciousness that  it  almost  made  me  hungry.  I 
am  told  Cook  &  Co.  are  regarded  by  these  na- 
tives as  a  Godsend.  He  surely  does  much  to- 
wards bringing  them  in  touch  with  humanity. 
And  now  a  day's  rest  is  to  follow  this  tiresome 
one,  and  until  we  reach  Assouit  we  can  rest 
without  any  rude  alarms,  which  will  be  at  least 
for  twenty-four  hours.  Confusion,  worse  con- 
founded, was  the  scene  at  the  landing  at  As- 
souit. The  wharf  was  piled  high  with  parcels 
of  merchandise,  the  owner  of  each  crying  in  a 
deafening  voice,  the  surpassing  features  of  their 
commodities,  pushing  and  pulling  each  other  to 
establish  their  rights.  We  dare  not  pass  through 
this  motley  crowd  to  mount  our  donkeys  until 
our  dragoman  interfered,  striking  indiscrimi- 
nately right  and  left  with  his  stick,  which  too  of- 


142 


ten  fell  upon  their  heads  or  backs.  We  did  suc- 
ceed in  examining  the  rhinoceros  canes,  made 
of  hides,  which  sold  at  $5.00  apiece,  and  of  teak 
wood,  which,  we  were  told,  were  inclined  to 
splinter.  However,  we  took  our  chances.  There 
were  also  embroidered  portieres,  and  draperies, 
most  elaborate  Soudanese  embroideries,  speci- 
mens of  which  I  gladly  possessed  myself.  If  the 
crowd  is  too  threatening,  you  can  barter  from 
the  steamer's  deck.  These  Arabs  are  very  dex- 
terous;  they  bundle  their  goods,  and  with  a 
grace  v,-e  know  not  of,  throw  them  up  to  the 
deck  for  inspection.  Woe  betide  the  unfortunate 
one  who  attempts  to  return  the  articles  by  the 
same  process,  if  by  mischance  the  precious 
bundle  falls  into  the  water.  Sheiks  rush  in 
frenzy,  and  the  noise  from  the  crovvd  grows  like 
the  roar  of  a  mighty  cataract ;  and  in  one  case 
of  the  kind,  where  the  party  was  unlucky  in 
his  aim,  he  was  compelled,  for  the  peace  of  the 
passengers,  to  pay  for  the  lost  articles.  I  heard 
among  the  crowd  on  deck  some  one  exclaim : 
"This  is  great  fun!"  Perhaps  it  is,  but  I  failed 
to  appreciate  it. 

At  4  :oo  p.  m.,  the  19th  of  January,  we  landed 
in  Cairo,  a  tired  but  a  wiser  crowd,  and  we  are 
not  yet  through  the  wilderness.  O,  for  a  Moses! 
Why  did  he  not  survive  the  Deluge  ?  Backsheesh 
from  every  one  of  that  crew.  Those  who  had 
brushed  the  dust  or  sand  from  your  shoes  or 
clothes  as  you  flew  by  them  at  each  landing 
place;   those    with    shoo-fly   or  brushes,   whom 

143 


we  had  never  encountered  during  the  entire  trip, 
were  in  Hne  for  a  piaster,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
big  fees  expected  by  the  male  attendants  at  table 
and  in  your  cabin.  But  greatest  of  all  were  the 
expectations  of  the  dragomen,  who  were  most 
sullen  if  anything  less  than  one  or  two  pound 
note  or  gold  piece  was  offered  them.  It  is  safe 
to  say  to  go  under  "Thomas  A.  Cook  &  Co.'s 
auspices  up  the  Nile,"  you  cannot  get  off  with- 
out paying  at  least  three  hundred  dollars  for  a 
three-weeks'  excursion.  xA.lready,  competing 
companies  at  reduced  prices  are  manifesting 
themselves,  and  I  heard  with  perfect  satisfaction 
to  their  patrons,  but  the  Sheiks,  they  say,  are 
bought  up  by  the  "Cook's."  How  much  of  this 
is  Nile  gossip,  I  did  not  attempt  to  fathom.  I 
had  made  the  trip;  never  missed  but  one  excur- 
sion, and  still  being  in  the  body,  gave  thanks 
that  it  v;as  finished. 

We  w'ere  again  booked  for  Shephards.  What 
a  cosmopolitan  crowd  gathered  in  the  exchange 
of  that  hostelry  that  evening.  Many  permanent 
guests  for  the  season;  many  more  in  a  transition 
condition;  many  waiting  for  the  return  of  our 
vessel,  as  it  was  the  best  on  the  river,  to  go  again 
on  that  bourne,  from  which  most  travelers  re- 
turn. The  room  allotted  me  was  on  the  ground 
floor ;  I  think  in  my  weakness  I  would  have  ac- 
cepted it,  but  ■Mrs.  Stroud  and  Baxter,  my  pa- 
tron saints,  declared  it  unfit  for  me,  and  a  cot 
was  placed  in  a  large  upper  room  which  had 
been  assigned  the=e  ladies,  and  I  was  forced  by 

144 


them  to  take  the  best  bed.     At  the  end  of  three 
days  the  crowd  grew  less  and  accommodations 
better,  and  a  sunny,  bright  room  was  given  me 
all  to  myself.  Can  such  kindness  as  those  friends 
conferred  upon  me  ever  be  forgotten?     Not  by 
me,  nor  those  of  the  name  who  come  after  me. 
One  is  not  apt  to  forget  an  "oasis  in  the  desert." 
Having  decided  to  remain  in  Cairo  for  at  least 
two  weeks,  in  anticipation  of  meeting  a  friend 
vv'ho  had    followed    in  my    wake  "around    the 
world,"  I  decided  to  have  some  repairs  made  in 
my  wardrobe,  such  as  old  buttons  taken  off,  new 
ones  in  their  place;  new  veils,  new  gloves,  etc. 
All  this  was  done  at  a  little  shop  near  by,  kept 
by  an  English  woman  named  Cole.    There  Mrs. 
Baxter  accompanied  me,  and  I  came  out  quite 
renewed,  as  far  as  my  clothes  were  concerned. 
Having  a  spark  of  life  yet  remaining,  and  with 
my  usual  amount  of  energy,  I  was  again  per- 
suaded to  go  to  Jerusalem  with  a  party,  rather 
than  to   remain  for  the  Bombay   steamer  that 
was,  I  supposed,  to  bring  my  friend  with  whom 
I  had  agreed  to  return  home.    When  the  propo- 
sition was  made  me  by  Mrs.  Logan — I  will  con- 
fess, even  to  my  grandsons,  to  a  little  irrever- 
ence— the  very  thought  of  more  temples  to  see 
and  more  tombs  to  encounter,  was  a  trifle  too 
much  for  my  endurance,  and  I  simply  said  "No! 
Not  if  I  expected  to  meet  my  Lord!"  for  to  tell 
you  the  truth,    I    expected   and   felt    He   would 
come  and  meet  me  if  rest  was  not  soon  obtained. 
But  after  a  week's  sojourn  in  Cairo  I  agreed  to 

145 


join  the  party  and  go  over  to  Jerusalem  and 
Damascus  for  a  brief  stay  of  ten  days.  Plans 
were  made  with  T.  Cook  &  Sons  for  dragomen 
and  provisions,  when  all  were  frustrated  by 
quarantine  being  declared.  Our  only  escape 
from  Egypt  was  to  be  made  by  Brindisi  and 
Marseilles.  All  ports  of  the  Turkish  dominion 
were  shut  ofif  from  us  on  account  of  several 
cases  of  cholera  which  had  broken  out  in  Alex- 
andria. "To  arms"  was  never  before  more  read- 
ily responded  to  than  by  the  inmates  of  that  car- 
avansary. Tickets  were  secured  by  those  who  had 
not  yet  bought.  I  had,  in  purchasing  mine  at 
Bombay,  bought  through  to  Marseilles  ;  luggage 
was  brought  forward,  big  bags,  little  bags  and 
my  "Cheap  Jack"  was  much  in  evidence.  Lunch 
baskets  were  prepared  by  the  hotel  for  the  jour- 
ney to  Ismalia  that  resembled  great  wooden 
bird  cages.  Among  those  friends  we  left  behind 
were  those  destined  for  the  Nile  trip  and  a  few 
habitues  of  Cairo,  not  easily  frightened.  With 
homesick  eyes,  those  of  our  country  followed  us, 
and  as  a  parting  gift  gave  us  lovely  bouquets  of 
flowers. 

I  must,  before  leaving  Cairo,  give  an  account 
of  a  large  ball  given  in  honor  of  those  who  had 
been  up  the  Nile,  and  those  who  were  awaiting 
a  departure  thence.  It  was  given  by  the  pro- 
prietors of  Shepheards.  The  salon  was  cleared 
of  its  tables  and  the  military  band  assisted  the 
house  musicians  in  furnishing  music.  The 
crowd  was  large,  but    I    speak    truthfully    and 

146 


without  exaggeration  when  I  say  that  American 
women  take  the  palm  in  dancing.  There  is  a 
stiffness,  a  want  of  gracefuhiess,  in  those  ladies 
of  foreign  nations.  We  were  shocked  by  the 
innovation  of  the  British  army  ofificers,  with 
their  red  coats,  and  swords  dangling  at  their 
side,  which  w^ere  permissible  in  this  Oriental 
city,  but  when  their  spurs  were  worn,  to  the  det- 
riment of  the  gauzy  draperies  of  ladies  partici- 
pating in  the  dance,  it  was  a  breach  we  could 
not  overlook. 


M7 


FROM  EGYPT  TO  FRANCE 

And  now  we  are  in  Ismalia,  our  sailing  port. 
Two  steamers  are  momentarily  expected;  one 
bound  for  Brindisi,  the  other  for  J\Iarseilles.  The 
poor  hotel  accommodations  were  emphasized 
when  this  avalanche  of  people  came  down  upon 
them.  After  baggage  was  identified  and  there 
was  no  room  in  the  inn  for  many  of  us,  I  se- 
lected a  sofa  in  the  drawing  room,  on  vvhich  to 
rest  till  the  signal  was  given  that  the  "Caledonia" 
was  in  sight.  It  V\-as  not  a  bed  of  roses,  but 
many  around  me  had  a  worse  accommodation ; 
but  upon  it  I  became  half  unconscious  from 
sheer  exhaustion,  when  a  tender  hand  was  laid 
upon  me,  and  a  kind,  persuasive  voice  whispered 
in  my  ear:  "Come  w^ith  me;  there  is  room  for 
you  with  us."  Almost  reluctantly  I  arose  and 
followed  Airs.  Logan,  who  had,  through  her 
V\'ell-known  forethought,  secured  two  apart- 
ments for  herself  and  party,  the  latter  having 
agreed  to  double  up  and  give  me  the  extra  cot 
in  i-.Irs.  Logan's  room.  We  expected  surely  the 
cr}'  would  come  at  midnight,  and  we  slept  with 
one  eye  open  to  sight  our  steamer's  coming.  It 
was  a  cold,  moonlight  night.  The  desert's  glis- 
tening sands  w'ere  on  one  side  of  us,  the  spark- 
ling waters  of  Lake  Tesmah  in  the  Suez  Canal 

149 


on  the  other.  There  was  a  bird  with  a  lone, 
peculiar  cry  that  added  loneliness  to  the  scene, 
and  when  the  morning  light  da\M'ied  upon  us  we 
were  still  in  Ismalia.  A  most  inhospitable  break- 
fast was  served  us,  and  at  nine  o'clock  came  the 
welcome  cry:  "Ship  ahoy!'  The  wharf  from  off 
which  these  steamers  anchored  was  near  to  the 
hotel  and  a  procession  of  yawning  pedestrians 
was  soon  on  its  wending  way,  followed  by  in- 
numerable dragomen,  who  were  still  in  anticipa- 
tion of  one  more  backsheesh,  and  a  crowd  of 
blear-eyed,  frowsy  Arab  children  brought  up  the 
rear.  Breakfast  was  awaiting  us  on  the  good 
old  ship  "Caledonia,'"  and  a  warm  welcome  from 
Capt.  Andrews.  My  spirits  rose,  and  my  trav- 
eling friends,  Mrs.  Wilbur  and  her  daughter, 
soon  were  on  deck,  taking  in  the  surroundings. 
We  landed  at  Port  Said  about  5:00  p.  m.  I  in- 
vested my  last  piaster  in  an  olive  wood  paper 
cutter.  Port  Said  is  said  to  be  the  most  wicked 
place  on  earth.  As  I  hailed  from  Chicago  I 
thought  perhaps  honors  were  even.  We  did  not 
go  ashore,  but  got  our  steamer  chairs  in  readi- 
ness for  the  next  day,  as  we  were  told  we  would 
have  a  choppy  sea,  and  we  fully  realized  the 
truth  of  the  prophecy.  Our  cabins  proved  the 
safe  retreat,  and  there  I  remained  until  we 
reached  Brindisi,  at  6:00  a.  m.,  February  the 
5th.  At  5  130  we  were  called  on  deck  by  a  visit 
from  the  health  officers,  as  our  vessel  hailed 
from  an  infected  district.  All  bore  the  inspection 
and  we  soon  set  sail  again  and  landed  in  Mar- 

150 


seilles  the  7th  of  February.  My  baggage  was 
soon  O.  K.'d,  and  a  cab  took  me  with  my  luggage 
to  the  hotel.  Later  in  the  day  I  took  a  drive 
through  the  city,  and  was  much  impressed  with 
the  growth  since  a  former  visit  in  1881.  Off  the 
coast  of  Marseilles  is  built  the  famous  prison 
Chateau  d'lf,  immortalized  by  the  author  of 
Monte  Cristo,  a  fine  view  of  which  is  seen  from 
the  church  of  Notre  Dame,  built  on  a  high  rock 
on  the  outskirts  of  the  city.  The  train  for  Paris 
leaves  at  9  :oo  p.  m.,  and  after  a  fair  night's  rest, 
1  am  in  the  French  custom  house,  where  I  have  no 
trouble.  A  cab  is  secured  for  me  and  I  land  safely 
in  time  for  coffee  and  rolls  at  Madame  Therries, 
where  I  am  expected.  A  hasty  toilet  and  refresh- 
ments taken,  gave  me  fresh  strength,  and  I  soon 
found  my  way  to  Brown  &  Shipley,  bankers, 
where  I  found  eight  letters  from  home.  I  took  up 
one,  the  latest  date ;  found  from  its  contents  "all 
were  well,"  and  I  retraced  my  steps  to  my  own 
apartment,  where  I  spent  a  most  blessed  day, 
reading  and  writing  letters. 

Paris,  as  it  is  to-day  (1896)  strikes  a  visitor 
as  one  of  the  most  cleanly,  most  attractive  cities 
in  the  world  with  its  triumphal  arches,  which 
Napoleon  had  erected  in  commemoration  of 
his  victories,  one  of  which,  "The  Arc  de 
Triomphe,"  was  begun  in  1806,  although  the 
work  was  not  completed  till  1836,  long  after  the 
founder  and  architect  had  passed  away.  This 
arch  is  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  arch  is 
ninety  feet  high  and  forty-five    feet  wide.    It  is 


151 


considered  too  narrow  for  its  height,  and  the 
insignificant  ornaments  along  the  top  of  the 
structure  destroy  all  grandeur  of  outline.  You 
will  find  "Hare's  Walks"  your  best  guide  book 
for  Paris  and  its  surroundings.  A  year  and  a 
half's  researches  are  herein  condensed.  I  never 
fail  to  revisit  Versailles,  when  the  opportunity 
presents  itself.  Your  early  studies  in  history 
will  enable  you,  in  later  life,  after  seeing  this 
beautiful  architectural  pile,  to  long  for  a  more 
extended  history.  The  fountains  are  only  in 
full  play  on  the  Sabbath  day,  and  throngs  of 
people  of  all  walks  in  life,  are  seen  in  these 
grounds  and  crowd  the  corridors  of  historical 
paintings.  La  Madeline,  one  of  the  popular 
churches,  resembles  a  Pagan  temple.  Begun  by 
Louis  XV  (1777)  as  a  church,  and  finished  un- 
der Louis  Philippe  in  1832,  it  resembles  the 
Parthenon  of  the  Greeks.  You  will  hear  fine 
music  at  the  Church  of  "La  Trinita,"  but  the 
Parthenon  is  full  of  interest.  The  first  church  on 
or  near  this  site  was  built  by  Clovis,  and  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Genevieve ;  it  was  burnt  by  the  Nor- 
mans and  after  numerous  changing  of  owners, 
it  was  finally,  by  the  order  of  Louis  XV,  torn 
down  and  rebuilt,  as  a  votive  offering  to  St. 
Genevieve,  who  he  believed  to  be  his  patron 
saint  during  his  extreme  illness.  The  first  stone 
of  the  new  church  was  laid  by  this  king  in  1764, 
and  was  completed  by  the  architect,  Rondelet, 
the  pupil  of  the  first  architect  Soufflot  (de- 
ceased), in  1780.     It  is  the  burial  place  of  illus- 

152 


trious  citizens.  Its  possession  was  in  a  transi- 
tion state  for  years;  first  a  church  of  God,  then 
a  resting-  place  for  the  immortal  dead.  At  length, 
in  1885,  it  was  taken  from  the  worship  of  God 
and  given  Victor  Hugo,  whose  tomb  to  the 
right  as  you  enter  is  usually  the  first  to  be 
shown.  The  tombs  of  Voltaire  and  Rousseau  are 
empty,  having  been  pillaged  during  the  revolu- 
tion. Pere  La  Chaise  and  Montmartre  are  ceme- 
teries where  familiar  names  are  recorded  on 
tombstones  and  mausoleums.  In  the  former  lie 
Abelard  and  Heloise,  the  tragedienne  Rachel, 
and  the  open  sarcophagus  ready  for  the  remains 
of  Sarah  Bernhardt,  when  she,  too,  shall  lay  ofif 
this  mortal  coil.  There  are  in  Pere  La  Chaise, 
and  in  Montmartre,  many  musical  celebrities. 
While  I  was  there,  in  April  or  May  (1896),  Am- 
brose Thomas'  funeral  cortege  solemnly  wended 
its  way  from  La  Trinita  to  this  field  of  tombs. 
The  funeral  dress  of  the  Frenchman  is  what  we 
term  full  evening  dress.  The  bier  or  catafalque  is 
clothed  in  black  broadcloth,  embroidered  in  sil- 
ver. The  floral  offerings  are  piled  upon  it;  colos- 
sal wreaths  of  violets  and  immortelles,  strung 
on  wire,  are  emblematic  in  their  designs.  No 
music  on  that  lonely  march  on  foot  but  the  quiet 
tread  beats  a  requiem  for  the  dead. 

Fine  views  are  obtained  from  the  galleries  of 
the  Trocadero.  In  the  same  vicinity  is  the  "Palais 
dTndustrie,"  which  was  used  in  1852-55  for  the 
great  exposition,  and  will  be  utilized  again  in 
1900  for  another  fair.     The  shops  of  Paris  are 

153 


small ;  the  windows  seemingly  contain  most  of 
the  stock.  We  must  except  those  great  maga- 
zines, the  "Louvre"  and  the  "Bon  Marche." 

"The  Musee  de  Luxembourg,  by  the  order  of 
Louis  XVIII,  contains  only  such  works  of 
living  artists  as  were  acquired  by  the  state. 
The  works  of  each  artist  are  removed  to  the  gal- 
leries of  the  Louvre  ten  years  after  his  death ; 
the  pictures  are  constantly  changing.  The  walks 
in  the  Garden  of  the  Luxembourg  are  the  best 
types  of  ancient  palace  pleasance.  They  are 
considered  the  pleasantest  spots  in  Paris.  The 
character  of  the  Louvre  has  changed  from  a 
fortress  or  a  state  prison  (1367)  to  a  picture 
gallery.  It  was  the  great  dungeon  tower  in  the 
center  of  this  palace,  or  castle,  called  the 
Louvre,  that  the  great  feudataires  came  to  take 
or  renew  the  feudal  oaths ;  it  was  there  the  great 
ceremonies  took  place.  The  Louvre  was  en- 
larged by  Charles  V,  who  added  many  towers 
and  surrounded  it  with  a  moat,  which  was  sup- 
plied from  the  Seine.  He  made  a  palace  into  a 
complete  rectangular,  always  preserving  the 
great  central  dungeon  tower.  Francis  I  de- 
stroyed this  tower  (1527).  It  took  five  months 
to  do  this,  as  it  was  as  strong  as  the  day  it  was 
built.  It  was  regretted  by  the  populace,  because 
they  lost  the  pleasure  of  seeing  great  lords  im- 
prisoned there.  The  existing  palace  was  begun 
under  Pierre  Lescot  in  1541.  During  Henry  IPs 
reign  of  twelve  years,  Lescot  continued  his 
work.      After   Henry    IPs    death    his    widow, 

154 


Catherine  de  Medici,  came  with  her  children  to 
Hve  in  the  new  palace.  Henry  IV  united  the 
buildings  that  Catherine  de  Medici  had  built 
with  those  she  had  previously  built,  which, 
under  the  name  of  Tuilleries,  were  still  out- 
side the  limits  of  the  town.  And  from  this 
time  no  one  touched  the  Louvre  till  Richelieu  de- 
molished all  that  remained  of  the  feudal  buildings 
and  used  only  in  rebuilding  the  existing  wings  as 
the  half  of  his  facade  of  his  new  Louvre,  and 
built  two  others  on  the  same  plan  to  make  the 
building  a  perfect  square. 

While  the  minority  of  Louis  XIV  lasted, 
Anne  of  Austria  lived  with  her  children  in  the 
Palais  Cardinal,  now  Palais  Royal,  and  even 
while  the  work  was  going  on  at  the  Louvre, 
apartments  were  given  to  the  exiled  Henrietta 
Maria  of  England,  daughter  of  Henry  IV,  who 
met  with  most  generous  treatment  from  her  sis- 
ter-in-law. Little  more  was  done  toward  im- 
proving the  Louvre  through  the  reigns  of  Louis 
XV  and  XVI,  and  then  came  the  revolution 
(1848).  Napoleon  III  determined,  as  he  was 
in  power,  to  unite  the  Tuilleries  and  Louvre  into 
one  great  whole.  This  was  carried  out  and  ac- 
complished in  1857." 

During  my  visits  to  Paris  (1881  and  1896) 
the  repairs  to  the  central  facade  of  the  Tuilleries 
had  not  been  made.  This  unmeaning,  desolate 
space  presents  to  the  mind  the  ruthless  hand  of 
war  in  the  conflict  of  man's  ambition  for  su- 
premacy.    Before  the  revolution  of  1876,  his- 

155 


torians  tell  us  that  between  the  beautiful  chest- 
nut avenues,  across  the  brilhant  flowers  and 
quaint  orange  trees  of  the  garden,  beyond  the 
sparkHng  glory  of  the  fountains,  rose  the  ma- 
jestic facade  of  a  palace,  infinitely  harmonious  in 
color,  indescribably  picturesque  and  noble  in 
form,  and  interesting  beyond  description  from 
its  associations,  the  one  spot  to  be  visited  bv 
strangers,  which  attracted  the  sympathies  of  the 
world. 

We  see  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  du  Carousal, 
built  in  1806,  by  Fontaine,  for  Napoleon  I.  The 
car  and  horses  are  a  reproduction  of  the  famous 
group  on  St.  Marks  at  Venice,  which  Napoleon 
captured,  but  were  afterwards  restored  by  the 
allies.  The  street  scenes  of  Paris  are  most  en- 
tertaining, but  to  enjoy  it  in  its  perfection,  go 
when  you  are  young,  before  your  muscles  grow 
stiff  and  your  eyes  dim,  for  the  "run  for  your 
life"  requires  agility  and  good  vision. 


156 


HOMEWARD   BOUND 

We  now  bid  "an  revoir"  to  Paris,  and  cross 
the  English  channel,  from  Calais  to  Dover,  with- 
out any  great  inconvenience.  And  mighty  Nep- 
tune did  not  call  on  us  for  many  returns  of  the 
day.  We  proceed  from  Charing  Cross  station 
to  the  hotel  of  the  same  name,  where  we  remain 
until  we  obtain  more  pleasant  surroundings  in 
the  west  end  of  London.  Daily  excursions,  al- 
ways on  top  of  omnibuses,  when  there  were 
seats  for  us,  run  to  the  Picadilly,  Pall  Mall,  down 
Regent  and  Oxford  streets  and  into  Dickens' 
haunts,  when  time  afforded,  out  to  St.  John's 
Woods,  and  without  fail  to  Kensington,  to  the 
Museum,  which  is  most  absorbing  of  time  and 
interest.  We  take  carriages  and  drive  through 
Carleton  terrace  and  through  streets  where  the 
city  homes  of  the  royalty  are  located.  To  drive 
in  Hyde  Park  or  Rotten  Row,  with  a  crest  on 
your  carriage  door,  would  be  fine,  but  as  we  had 
left  our  crests  at  home  we  v/ere  denied  many  of 
those  privileges.  I  recall  here  with  pleasure  an 
opportunity  that  was  afforded  my  daughter  and 
myself,  in  i88i,  v.'hile  on  a  visit  to  Kensington. 
While  wandering  in  the  vicinity  of  Albert  Hall, 
we  were  attracted  by  crowds  of  people  gathering 
roundabout  its  doors.     On  inquiry  we    learned 

157 


a  bazaar  was  in  progress  therein  for  the  benefit 
of  some  London  hospital.  By  paying  the  ad- 
mittance fee  of  one  pound  each  ($5.00)  we 
could  enter,  where  we  could  see  royalty,  each 
person  of  note  in  his  or  her  booth  with  the  name 
attached.  "Maidens  like  moths  are  caught  by 
glare,"  and  we  were  soon  in  regal  atmosphere. 
Here  were  ladies  of  high  degree,  dressed  in 
Queen  Anne's  style,  who  had  been  brought 
thither  by  lackeys  in  sedan  chairs  of  that  an- 
cient class.  Most  marvelous  was  the  display  of 
jewels  which  met  our  bewildering  gaze,  and 
these  high-born  ladies,  with  their  pretty  feet  and 
high  insteps,  delicately  formed  hands  and  taper- 
ing fingers,  gave  evidence  of  good  blood.  We 
were  approached  by  these  noble  men  and 
women,  soliciting  us  to  take  chances  in  prizes 
that  were  to  be  raffled  ofif,  but  we  declined  for 
two  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  we  could  not 
see  how  we  could  accommodate  in  our  steamer 
trunks  the  huge  Chinese  umbrella,  under  whose 
shade  at  least  fifty  people  or  more  could  find 
shelter  at  a  garden  party,  and  the  greater  reason 
why  we  did  not  invest  was  that  our  entrance  fee 
was  cjuite  enough  for  the  good  cause.  How- 
ever, we  felt  ourselves  most  favored  at  this  ex- 
traordinary opportunity  of  witnessing  the  gentle 
manners,  and  hearing  the  musical  intonation  of 
voice  that  marks  good  birth. 

On  Sunday  afternoon  we  went  in  search,  in 
the  east  end  of  London,  for  the  "Palace  of  De- 
light," and  its  surroundings.  We  took  the  tram- 

158 


way  and  inquired  of  a  demure,  missionary-look- 
ing lady,  the  way  to  the  most  degraded  quarters. 
She  repHed :  "You  are  in  that  region  now,"  and 
having  no  male  escort,  Ave  were  not  particularly 
over-confident  of  our  position.  The  streets  were 
swarming  with  children;  some  fairly  well  clad, 
others  ragged  and  soiled.  Groups  of  men  and 
women,  many  in  Sunday  attire,  others  whose 
habiliments  were  evidences  of  great  want  and 
poverty.  But  few  were  hilarious.  On  the  con- 
trary, serious  countenances  betrayed  earnest 
conversation  between  and  by  these  groups  of 
people.  We  encountered  no  special  exhibition 
of  degradation;  but  upon  the  women's  faces  we 
detected  the  marks  of  toil  and  care,  and  in  many 
of  their  ofifspring,  idiotic,  expressionless  faces. 
Woman's  work  among  women  may  brin?  in 
God's  own  good  time  a  fulfillment  of  things 
hoped  for.  Again,  I  recall  a  scene  I  witnessed 
in  1881.  We  were  inmates  of  Mr.  Burr's  hotel, 
as  he  termed  it.  Among  his  guests  were  people 
of  some  distinction.  Mrs.  Mary  Livermore,  of 
Massachusetts,  was  in  this  category.  She  had 
been  sent  over  by  her  state  or  the  city  of  Bos- 
ton, to  investigate  the  "Coffee  Houses"  of  Lon- 
don, and  Mr.  Burr  was  known  as  a  philan- 
thropist in  that  city.  Preparations  were  made  to 
see  London  by  gas  Hght,  and  I  was  among  the 
few  invited  to  go  with  Mrs.  Livermore.  Two 
carriages  were  provided  for  the  party,  and  each 
held  besides  four  occupants,  a  seat  either  for  Mr. 
Burr  or  his  son,  with    the  respective  coachmen, 

159 


We  drove  to  the  station  and  then  took  the  steam 
cars  to  "Wandsworth,"  a  short  distance  from 
London.  On  disembarking  we  walked  to  one  of 
the  public  resorts  known  as  a  "Coffee  House," 
where  light  refreshments,  with  tea,  coffee  and 
chocolate  are  offered  at  a  trifling  price ;  also  a  bot- 
tled drink  labelled  Ozone,  which  had  no  intoxicat- 
ing influence.  These  institutions  were  for  the  con- 
gregating of  the  laboring  classes,  where  they 
might  spend  an  hour  or  so  in  discussing  the  news 
of  the  day,  or  in  social  intercourse,  where  no  in- 
toxicating beverages  could  be  obtained,  and 
which  served  to  entertain  and  keep  them  off  the 
streets  or  from  dens  of  infamy.  Here  husband 
and  wife,  with  clean  hands  and  faces,  and  perhaps 
sweethearts  for  aught  we  knew,  were  apparent- 
ly happy  in  this  hour  of  recreation.  Mrs.  Liver- 
more  was  asked  to  speak  to  that  body  of  people, 
and  her  satellites  drew  close  around  her,  not 
knowing  how  she  would  be  received.  Suffice  to 
say  that  motherly  face  drew  the  attention  of  all, 
and  the  appeals  she  made  to  men  and  women 
present  drew  many  a  tear  from  the  female  por- 
tion, and  to  suppress  an  emotion,  an  apologetic 
cough  issued  from  rough  exteriors.  We  retraced 
our  steps  to  London  and  there  our  carriages 
awaited  us.  We  were  driven  to  the  "Seven 
Dials,"  and  worse  places,  if  possible,  where  we 
were  subjected  to  jeers  and  penetrating  glances 
into  our  carriage  by  the  passers-by.  Across 
these  streets  were  hung  clothes  lines  and  under 
the  glare  of  electric  or  gas  lights  could  be  in- 


spected  the  second-handed  garments  that  were 
hung  thereon.  Markets,  whose  stale  and  un- 
heahhy  condition  revealed  itself  to  our  sensi- 
tive nostrils,  and  we  were  glad  to  turn  away 
from  this  unkempt  crowd  to  a  theatre  in  close 
proximity,  whose  doors  were  thrown  open 
early  to  those  who  could  afiford  a  penny  or  more 
to  enter.  On  the  stage  was  a  young  girl,  dressed 
in  clean  apparel.  A  check  apron  gathered  at  her 
neck  and  fell  nearly  to  the  tops  of  her  shoes. 
She  was  amusing  the  audience  with  a  dance 
they  called  a  "hoe  down."  She  kept  time  to  the 
music  by  the  clatter  of  slip-shod  shoes.  Then 
some  "Punch  and  Judy"  exhibition  followed,  and 
refreshments  similar  to  those  we  saw  at  Wands- 
worth, were  passed  around,  from  which  the  hun- 
gry could  appease  their  hunger,  and  with  the 
tea  and  cofifee,  their  thirst  was  satisfied  for  a  mere 
trifle. 

Thus  the  hours  wore  away  which  might 
have  otherwise  been  spent,  and  would  have 
rendered  these  people  unfit  for  the  next  day's 
work.  By  ten  o'clock  all  was  over,  and  a 
very  orderly  crowd  dispersed,  we  will  hope, 
to  their  homes.  The  theaters  in  London  are 
well  patronized.  I  saw  among  other  plays 
the  "Prisoner  of  Zenda/'  and  realized  fully 
that  to  wear  the  court  train,  and  handle  it,  and 
yourself  gracefully  must  be  to  wear  it  often. 
The  boxes  are  well  patronized  by  coroneted 
women.  I  saw  no  one  who  struck  me  as  be- 
ing to  the  manor  born.     The  universal  law  of 

i6i 


removing  all  head  covering  is  most  strictly  ob- 
served. The  average  appearance  of  the  Eng- 
lish w^oman  does  not  compare  w^ith  dainty, 
well-gowned  French  woman,  but  neither  Eng- 
lish nor  French  rival  the  American  woman, 
when  she  starts  out  to  please.  No  one  visits 
London  for  the  first  time  without  seeing  the 
tawer,  with  its  grewsome  walls  and  its  regal 
splendor  of  the  crown  jewels.  The  national 
and  royal  academies  claim  many  hours,  and 
to  visit  the  churches  and  cathedrals  one  makes 
haste. 

We  were  in  London  on  Easter  Sunday.  We 
heard  in  his  own  pulpit  Dr.  Parker  and,  more 
than  that,  his  wife,  now  deceased,  stood  on  the 
left  of  the  pulpit.  Before  the  sermon  by  her 
husband,  she  appealed  to  the  women  of  Lon- 
don, as  well  as  the  women  of  every  nation,  to 
spare  the  birds,  and  repeated  several  verses  of 
her  own  composition  in  their  behalf. 

We  fully  intended  to  visit  the  cathedral 
towns  of  England,  but  sickness  of  one  of  our 
party,  deprived  us  of  that  privilege,  and  after 
a  lot  of  shopping,  and  more  sight-seeing,  we 
spent  one  day  at  Windsor,  and  saw  the  Eton 
College  grounds.  Not  far  away,  but  in  sight, 
I  believe,  of  Windsor  Castle,  is  "Stoke  Pogis," 
made  memorable  by  "Gray's  Elegy." 

Her  majesty,  the  queen,  was  not  at  home. 
We  were  shown  one  room  in  particular,  which 
has  been  thrown  open  to  the  public  since  my 
visit  there  in  1881  ;  that  was,  the  one  contain- 

162 


ing  the  "jubilee  gifts  of  1897,"  when  hearts 
and  hands  must  have  been  emptied  in  mak- 
ing these  loyal  presents.  The  treasures  of 
India  were  there,  those  of  Afric's  sunny  shores. 
and  from  every  nation  and  every  tribe  that 
acknowledged  Victoria.  Queen  and  empress, 
each  and  all,  poured  forth  their  trophies  at  her 
feet.  Her  stables  were  shown  us,  well  stocked 
with  thoroughbred  steeds  from  far  off  Arabia 
and  the  Shetland  Isles. 

"Time  and  tide  waits  for  no  man,"  and  we 
are  booked  for  the  "Augusta  Victoria,"  that 

sails  April  ,  1896.  Some  love  to  roam,  but 

I  like  it  better  when  I  am  nearer  home.  Our 
trip  across  the  Atlantic  is  not  what  we  hoped 
for,  and  a  choppy  sea  with  an  occasional  swell 
made  us  feel  uncomfortable.  I  had  the  pleas- 
ure in  Paris  of  making  the  acquaintance  of  a 
gentleman,  wife  and  young  lady  daughter,  wTio 
invited  me  to  return  to  America  in  their  com- 
pany, and  seldom,  if  ever,  has  it  been  my  lot 
to  have  my  lines  cast  among  more  delightful 
people  than  they  and,  although  our  homes  are 
far  apart,  my  heart  often  goes  out  to  them. 

When  our  own  home  port  is  sighted  and 
the  sensation  the  appearance  of  a  custom- 
house officer  always  creates  is  over,  and  the 
welcome  "O.  K."  is  visible  on  our  luggage,  we 
feel  like  taking  ofif  our  chapeau  to  "Liberty  En- 
lightening the  World." 

It  is  midnight  when  we  land  on  the  Jersey 
shore,  and  the  gallant  captain^  no  less  courte- 

163 


ous  on  land  than  on  sea,  bids  us  return  to  our 
cabins  and  rest,  when  we  have  obeyed  our 
country's  mandate,  the  custom  house  officer. 
A  hasty  breakfast  and  a  few  good-byes  are 
spoken,  and  my  heart  swells  within  me,  as  I 
spring  from  the  gang-plank  to  the  shore,  and  the 

lines 

"My  native    country,   thee, 
Land  of  the  noble  free, 

Thy  name  I  love; 
I  love  thy  rocks  and  rills, 
Thy  w^oods  and  templed  hills. 
My  heart  with  rapture  thrills 
Like  that  above," 

seem  to  express  all  and  more  than  all  that  I 
could  say. 

A  short  stay  of  a  few  hours  in  New  York, 
and  an  uneventful  trip  on  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral Railroad  brought  me  into  Chicago,  where 
those  nearest  and  dearest  to  me  were  in  wait- 
ing to  bid  me  welcome  home.  And  now  in 
closing,  my  dear  children,  I  will  say:  "That  if 
the  w^ork  I  have  done  in  leaving  you  these  im- 
pressions and  footprints,  gives  the  pleasure 
hoped  for,  I  will  feel  compensated,  notwith- 
standing 1  have  labored  when  the  flesh  was 
weak  and  my  vision  clouded.  When  you 
have  reached  my  age  (sixty-three),  when 
youth  and  vigor  are  not  in  their  fulness,  this 
work  of  love  may  then  be  appreciated. 

Your  Grandmother, 

ELEONORA  HUNT. 
Nov.  20,  1897. 

164 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 


Travel 
G440 
.H86 
1902 


